Tuberose is a perennial plant that is part of the Asparagus family. The representative of the flora stands out beautifully with dense inflorescences that have a rather pleasant aroma. The smell of the flower is strongly reminiscent of lily, narcissus and gladiolus. Essential oils of these plants are widely used in the perfume industry. Few people know that world brands (Gucci, Dior) mass-produced tuberose perfumes. For example, eau de parfum from Estee Lauder under the brand “Tuberose - Gardenia” is widely popular all over the world.

The natural habitat of the tuberous polyanthes (“Polianthes tuberose”) is the territory of modern Mexico. Back in the 16th century, the plant was introduced to India, Eurasia and North Africa. The flower does not “like” severe frosts, so it is grown in garden pots or dug out of open ground in late autumn.

Features of tuberose as an unfairly forgotten fragrant flower

Botanical characteristics. Tuberose - description

Tuberose is a perennial plant with a unique aroma. The root system of the flower is represented by oblong-shaped tuberous bulbs. The diameter of such modified underground shoots of the plant reaches from 2 to 6 cm. The fleshy thickening of the root is evenly covered with brown scales. At the bottom of the vegetative organ there are white thread-like roots.

The total lifespan of the bulb in " Polianthes"Tuberose" reaches 2 years. Tuberose gradually grows leaves and shoots, and then throws out beautiful inflorescences. Quite often, in the first year of life, flowering does not occur at all. After such a physiological process, the bulb dies completely, and several small children develop next to it.

The herbaceous growth of the ground type in the representative of the Asparagus family is renewed every year. As a result, the plant receives dense and erect stems and leaves. The height of the bush ranges from 35 to 45 cm. The upper part of the shoot is bare, and the bottom is covered with dense leaves. Tuberose leaves are dark green in color and reach a length of 30-45 cm and a width of 1-3 cm.

From July to October, a large spike-shaped inflorescence is formed at the top of the stem. Thus, the height of the fragrant bush increases to 1 meter. The still closed buds are light pink. Beautiful flowers, which are represented by an elongated tube and pointed white petals, are securely placed on the stems. The total length of the bud is from 5 to 6 cm with a diameter of 4 cm. Many gardeners claim that tuberose petals resemble smooth pieces of natural wax.

Opened flower " Polianthes"Tuberose" has an exclusive and pleasant aroma. In Mexico and a number of Asian countries, a colorful representative of the flora is used to decorate the bride. The formed wedding bouquet will be an excellent addition to the celebration. Also, the composition of inflorescences is suitable for decorating residential buildings and office rooms. The thing is that close flowers contain from 10 to 30 buds. The blooming of one flower can last 2-3 days. The lower buds open first. After the pollination process, fruits begin to set. The final stage of plant development is represented by oblong seed pods with a large number of small and flat seeds.

Tuberose is also called “heat-loving Mexican.” The fragrant plant has large waxy inflorescences of drooping type. Part of the shoot system has a pronounced aroma that is remembered for a long time. Several centuries ago, a representative of the flora was a frequent guest in the flowerbeds of noble nobles and counts. But today the “capricious beauty” is quite rare. Most gardeners and flower growers are afraid to get involved with an exotic plant, because it requires constant attention and special knowledge. However, tuberose and broadleaf tuberose will be a beautiful addition to your garden.

Tuberose flower. Varieties

Plant " Polianthes"Tuberose" has about 13 species. Modern floriculture widely uses only 2 varieties of this decorative flower. Let's consider the main options for the fragrant representative of the flora, namely:

• Tuberose broadleaf. Tuberose bulbs reach sizes up to 5 cm in length and 3 cm in width. The erect stem is densely covered with foliage at the base. The external organs of the plant are characterized by bright green pigmentation with a shiny surface, which are collected in a rosette. The spike-shaped inflorescence consists of snow-white flowers with a diameter of up to 4 cm. Generative development is rather weak, but pleasant in smell, and occurs at the end of April - beginning of May;
• Tuberous polyanthes. The height of this type of flower reaches from 80 to 100 cm. The rosette at the root is formed on the basis of flexible leaves up to 6 cm long. Tuberose tubers are easily planted in the garden plot. In the area of ​​the bare peduncle, white tubular flowers bloom. They have a pleasant aroma, since 1 inflorescence contains up to 30 buds.

Experienced gardeners and flower growers distinguish the following decorative varieties of the tuber-bearing type of the Asparagus family:

• “Pearl” is a terry variety that has a height of 45-65 cm. The diameter of the fragrant flower is 5 cm. The plant is heat-loving and is quite easily grown in special containers;
• “Sensation” includes a large number of small inflorescences of pink-purple color;
• “Pink Sapphire” stands out for its voluminous and dense inflorescences. The flower blooms in a big way and has dark purple pigmentation of the petals around the edges.

Rules for planting tuberose

Tuberose reproduces using small bulbs. In open-air flower beds, the plant can produce up to 10 small children. During the summer season, such tubers can grow well in size, which significantly affects the splendor of the peduncle next year.

A large number of experienced gardeners preheat them to stimulate germination of tubers. To do this, the bulbs are simply laid out on a damp cloth and placed in a warm place. The dark room should have a temperature of 25ºC. After the first roots appear, tuberose is considered ready for planting.

A special solution is used as an additional tool to stimulate the development of tubers. Bulbs at 1/3 height are kept for 12 hours in a mixture of root and zircon. As a result, an effective biostimulator accelerates the emergence of roots.

Tuberose can be grown both indoors and in open ground. The plant loves light and warmth, which must be taken into account during its development. Many novice gardeners make mistakes when choosing a site for a flower in the full sun. It is rational to plant tubers of the aromatic “Polyantes” after warming the soil to 10°C. So what are the rules for proper landing? PolianthesTuberose"? Let's look at the main points:

• The most effective method of growing tuberose is the container planting method. Thus, you can make the flowering process earlier, increase the size of the new tubers of the plant and not have to constantly replant it;
• planting bulbs in open ground should be carried out in the spring (April-May);
• the depth of the tuberose tubers is 1-3 cm. After 3-4 weeks, the gardener will be able to observe the first shoots;
• the distance between the bulbs should not be less than 15 cm. This will give the already mature plant additional space;
• When choosing a site for a “heat-loving Mexican plant,” you need to pay attention to the soil structure. The soil should be light and fertile. To do this, a sand cushion is formed in the prepared area. This allows you to install high-quality drainage, since the plant does not like large accumulations of moisture at the roots.

Comprehensive care. Tuberose - cultivation

Tuberose requires certain knowledge and perseverance from the gardener. But as a result, the plant thanks its “owner” with an aromatic fragrance and colorful color. Let's consider the key points that should be taken into account when caring for a heat-loving plant:

• lighting. Polyanthes needs constant light and long periods of daylight. If there is a strong burning sun at noon, then it is best to shade the representative of the Asparagus family. In the evening and morning, the rays of the luminary will not cause harm. It is worth noting that flowers rarely bloom in deep shade;
• temperature regime. Homeland " Polianthes"Tuberose" is Mexico, so the plant prefers warm conditions. The main task of the grower is to maintain the temperature at least 20ºС. Otherwise, the process of growth and flowering may stop completely. In temperate latitudes, when it reaches 15ºС, polyanthus completely dies. In summer, the flower can be grown outdoors. In urban environments, a balcony or veranda is perfect for this. However, when growing an exotic flower in the garden, you should provide reliable protection from drafts;
• humidity level. A perennial plant constantly needs air humidity from 50 to 80%. Thus, it is recommended to spray the flower several times a day. During the hot period, special “irrigation” cannot be carried out. The thing is that droplets of water in the burning sun can act as lenses and cause severe burns;
• feeding with fertilizers. For the systematic development of tuberose, it is necessary to do special feeding. To increase the green mass of the plant and increase the peduncle, high-quality mineral compositions/solutions are used (40 grams per 10 liters of water). You will also need to add well-rotted bird droppings and mullein infusion (1:10). During the growing season of polyanthus, it is rational to do 3-4 feedings;
• proper pruning and garter. During the development process, the plant leaves behind withered foliage, broken inflorescences and damaged shoots. Long stems break quite easily, for which they are carefully tied up. In October, drooping and yellow foliage is cut off with pruning shears. By removing the ground parts of the flower, you can provoke “anabiosis” of the bulb;
• high-quality forcing of tubers. After a few weeks of rest, the bulbs can be moved to a lighted place and small waterings can begin. To do this, you should choose a convenient pot with a diameter of 5 to 7 cm. The container is filled with soil from the garden bed/garden with a slight addition of sand. After some time, the tuberose will produce its first shoots. After germination, flowering occurs in the 7th month.

Effective control of tuberose pests

Tuberose planting and care is not a complete list of work that a florist must perform. Like any plant, " Polianthes"Tuberose" has certain pests and some diseases. The task of the florist is to timely detect such problems and fully eliminate them. Pests of the “heat-loving Mexican” include:

Among polyanthes diseases, the following varieties may appear:

• gray and white rot. These fungal diseases damage the underground and aboveground parts of the plant. As a result, tuberose begins to darken, soften and rot. The affected bulbs form very weak shoots and develop satisfactorily. The stem may become covered with a specific white coating (tyfulosis);
• penicillosis. The disorder occurs due to excessive humidity. Bright yellow spots appear on the tubers;
• August disease- Caused by the tobacco necrosis virus. The disease is accompanied by noticeable curvature of the stem and dark spots on the bulbs.

Today, there are several methods for controlling tuberose pests and diseases. Each approach requires precise and high-quality execution:

If it is not possible to alternate crops on the territory of a personal plot, then the soil must be treated with formaldehyde before planting. To do this, take 250 ml of the drug and dissolve it in 10 liters of water. This mixture is used per 1 m2 of soil at a temperature of 0 degrees. After this, the soil is tightly covered with film for 24 hours, and then dug up.

Tuberose or polyanthes (Latin Polianthes) is a genus of perennial beautifully flowering corm-like herbaceous plants of the Agave subfamily (Latin Agavoideae) of the Asparagaceae family. Mexico is considered its homeland.

Description

The root system is represented by a corm with a filmy coating and a diameter of 2-7 cm. At the bottom, powerful cord-like roots are formed, reaching 30 cm. Leaves of parallel venation, linear, elongated, about 40 cm, are located at the base of the stem. The leafy stem ends in a spike-shaped inflorescence, the height reaches 1 m.

Tuberose

The inflorescence consists of 15-30 flowers with a diameter of 3-5 cm. The buds are pink, the blossoming flowers are white, funnel-shaped, waxy, with dense petals and a legendary aroma. In cultivation since the 16th century, as a result of long-term selection, double forms, pink, yellow, purple or lilac, have been developed. The fruit is a capsule, the seeds are flat.

Under natural conditions, flowering lasts from July to October. In cultivation, each flower does not fade for 4-5 days, and the inflorescence as a whole lasts about 3 weeks. Each corm blooms only once in its life; in subsequent seasons it can be used to propagate tuberose.

Species promising for floriculture

The genus includes 13 species. Noteworthy:

Polyanthes latifolia(P. platyphillus) has broad-linear, shiny, light green basal leaves. The bulbs are 5 cm long and 3 cm across. The flowers are single, 4 cm in diameter, drooping with a barely perceptible fragrance. Spring flowering (April-May) lasts about a month.

Industrial polyanthes plantation

Polyanthes tuberiferous(P. tuberosa) 0.8-1 m high. Basal leaves reach a length of up to 50 cm, located on a stem up to 6 cm. Flowers are 5-6 cm in diameter, tubular. Their number in a spike-shaped loose inflorescence is from 10 to 30, depending on the strength of the root system and agricultural technology. The original species has white flowers, but it is based on varieties that have pink, salmon, purple color and double shape. The corm is filmy and produces a large number of children. The aroma is very strong and can change depending on the time of day. Used in perfumery.

• The variety “The Pearl” is double, very fragrant, the leaf blade is up to 30 cm. The height of the perennial is 45-65 cm. The flowers, when opening, become like white stars, up to 5 cm in diameter. In our climate, it is often used for planting in pots.
• The “Pearl” variety is semi-double, with an amazing aroma. The leaves are long, bright green, slightly blue. Choose a place for planting that is well-lit and drained, with light partial shade possible. The height of this varietal form is 0.6-0.9 m, the flowers are white waxy. Blooms in late summer, early autumn.
• The 'Shringar' variety is used for industrial floriculture and has a pinkish tint.

Photo gallery of species

Growing and care

In our country, it is widely cultivated in Crimea, on the Black Sea coast of the Krasnodar Territory. In the middle zone, successful cultivation of polyanthus in open ground is not an easy task, but it is doable. If in the south corms can simply be planted in a permanent place, then in colder conditions they are first germinated. To do this, they are placed in damp moss or peat and kept warm and dark until sprouts appear. First, the corms are placed in pots with a light nutrient substrate, and only in May, when the threat of frost has completely passed, are they transplanted into the soil. It is advisable to plant on a sand cushion to avoid stagnation of water and improve drainage.

No less popular is the cultivation of this southern beauty using gladioli technology. Before freezing, the underground parts are dug up, washed, and, if necessary, disinfected. Dry and store at a temperature of 10-15 °C, sprinkled with sawdust or sand. The leaves are removed after they have completely dried out. You can store healthy mole bulbs with children with a lump of earth.

Sprouted tuberose corms with unseparated babies

Good results in temperate latitudes are achieved by growing tuberose in containers. Tuberose is planted in a container in February. Sprouts appear only after a month. When they grow up, place the container in the light and water it regularly. As soon as the air temperature becomes high enough, the container with the grown perennial is taken outside, first placed in a shaded place, and only after 2 weeks exposed to direct sunlight. They are fed several times during the season. Flowering occurs at the end of summer. In the fall, before frost, the container is placed in storage (dry cellar or barn). The leaf mass is not cut, it dries slowly, releasing nutrients to the root system. This method is also suitable for growing at home.

Container grown polyanthes

Polyantes successfully develops in open sunny areas with fertile and not too light soil; good drainage is required. There are no special requirements for soil composition. The bulbs are not buried; their tops do not need to be covered.

It is better to water with warm water. Feeding with mineral fertilizers is recommended, but they must be balanced; an excess of nitrogen provokes stretching and lodging. Adding organic matter also gives good results. The growing season is slow, from the appearance of sprouts to flowering it takes 3-6 months. When purchasing planting material, choose corms that are more than 2 cm in diameter (smaller ones will not bloom this season), cone-shaped, the base should be convex.

Polyanthes at the beginning of the growing season

Tuberose is not able to winter in open ground in our climate. Already at a temperature of -2 °C it can freeze. The whole perennial or its underground parts must be stored indoors until the next season. Cultivation in pots or for forcing is common. This way you can achieve flowering at any time of the year. To force the plant into a dormant period, cut off the leaf mass and stop watering. Then they dig it up and store it.

Exquisite bridal bouquet of tuberose

Reproduction

The corm produces many children per season (up to 20 pieces), their size depends on nutrition and other conditions. In mid-summer, young plants can be separated from the mother plants. From them, by the end of the season, they obtain full-fledged planting material capable of blooming next year. But it happens that flowering occurs only in the 2-3rd year. It is not necessary to do this; the children can be removed after digging.

Children are not separated from dug up corms prepared for storage. There is a danger of them drying out. This is done only in the spring before planting, and then only when necessary. Some gardeners advise not to disturb the natural harmony by planting a nest of bulbs as is, entirely. This is incorrect, because. Each child, even without blooming, forms its own children. As a result, the corms lack space and nutrition and grow poorly.

Growing tuberose from seeds is possible only in specially created conditions, in regions with a warm, mild climate.

Tuberose corm with babies

Diseases and pests

Tuberose is not very susceptible to diseases in open ground. The essential oils exuded by the plant repel many pests. But sometimes it suffers from spider mites and aphids. Control measures are standard; spraying with insecticides helps. With a large distribution of mole crickets throughout the entire area, they also damage polyanthus.

Cut polyanthes

Use in landscape design

Once upon a time, tuberose enjoyed incredible popularity, it was sung and poems were written about it. Then she was forgotten for quite a long time. However, now the well-deserved success is returning, these beautifully flowering plants in retro style have returned to garden fashion. Of course, this delicate culture is most popular in the southern regions. But it is so attractive that it will become the highlight of any flower garden.

Tuberose in open ground

Gladiolus is considered a good neighbor for polyanthus. They are similar in cultivation technology and harmonize perfectly. When the gladioli have already faded, the tuberose buds bloom. Thus, an area of ​​continuous flowering is formed. They are extremely effective in flower beds and look great when planted in dense clumps. They are used in garden beds; low-growing, beautifully flowering or decorative foliage plants should be planted in front of them. Designers love to place containers with tuberoses on open terraces and gazebos. It is generally accepted that the fragrance of this plant and all its beauty are revealed on a quiet summer evening.

In potted culture, it decorates rooms, loggias, and balconies. You must understand that the aroma of tuberose is very rich and bright; it is better to keep it in a well-ventilated area. Used by florists for cutting. This type of application is promising, gaining more and more popularity and becoming fashionable. Does not fade in a vase for about 2 weeks. Essential oils of this plant have been used in the perfume industry for a very long time. They are considered one of the most expensive.

Tuberose, garden form with lilac flowers

The famous French perfumer Francois Demachy, creator of fragrances under the Christian Dior brand, calls tuberose an incomparable exotic flower. For many years in a row, he has been traveling to India to the Madurai flower market in Tamil Nadu, where he personally buys polyanthes for the fashionable J’adore perfume series.

According to specialized literature, tuberose has been known in culture since the beginning of the 16th century. And at all times it was valued primarily for the exquisite aroma of its waxy flowers.

Description of tuberose

Its smell is truly amazing: rich, reminiscent of the mixed aroma of taceta-shaped daffodils, hyacinths and oriental lilies. And the flowers, located in a spike-shaped inflorescence up to 1 m high, are also impressive with tubular perianths in a retro style.

In the past, tuberose was one of the favorite crops, along with such as gillyflower, heliotrope, rose, and hydrangea. Poems and romances were dedicated to her. Unfortunately, at present it is almost forgotten. And it's undeserved.

But let’s return to the description of the plant, which most often has simple snow-white flowers with a diameter of 3-4 cm. As a result of centuries-old selection, double forms were obtained, as well as inflorescences of soft pink, lilac and purple colors.

The buds on the ear are arranged in pairs and there can be up to 10 such pairs. Their flowering lasts quite a long time: each flower lasts 4-5 days, and the inflorescence as a whole lasts about 3 weeks (this is in the ground, a little less when cut).

It is better to cut the ears with 2-4 pairs of flowers in bloom, because, according to my observations, inflorescences cut in buds or at the beginning of blooming in water may not open the upper buds.

The flower stalks of tuberoses are strong, almost without leaves. The leaves are linear-grooved, light green, about 20 cm long and about 2 cm wide, located at the base of the stem.

Care

Mexico, with its sultry climate, is not the middle zone, so you need to apply certain tricks to make the overseas beauty grow and bloom well.

By the way, the culture is well mastered by flower growers in the Black Sea region (Krasnodar, Odessa, Yalta, etc.). Tuberose still does not grow in open ground in our area.

This is a rather heat-loving plant, loving open scorching sun, fertile, but not light soil. Watering mode is normal. Like other corms, it is apparently better to underwater than overwater. Therefore, in case of rain, it is necessary to stretch plastic film over it.

Tuberose, due to its southern origin, is a slow-growing plant: 6-7 months pass from the beginning of leaf growth to flowering. But the peduncle itself develops quickly.

Here's what one gardener advises us about care:

“I don’t have a permanent greenhouse, so I grow tuberose in containers. I bring containers with corms into the room in mid-February and place them, without watering, in the warmest place. At this time they do not need lighting. After 20-30 days, leaves begin to grow. When they reach 3-5 cm, I place the containers in a bright place and begin moderate watering.

Usually the flower is planted in fairly nutritious soil, so it is not fed before taking it outside. And already at the end of April (make adjustments to your weather conditions) I take the plants out into the fresh air in a shaded place, and after a couple of weeks I expose them to the sun.

During the summer, before flowering, I feed it several times with a special homemade liquid fertilizer: I put chicken droppings, wood ash and weeded weeds in a barrel of water.

I keep all this until fermentation, then dilute it with clean water (1:10). And I water it with this infusion about once every 10 days.”

Tuberoses bloom in late summer. Younger ones bloom later.

The plants continue to vegetate, and would do so all year round (since they are perennial), but at the end of October, before the onset of autumn frosts, I bring them directly with the leaves into a dry cellar, where the green parts gradually dry out, giving nutrients to the corms and their offspring . I don't water in winter.

The first year, following the recommendations of “southern” gardeners, I grew tuberose according to the agricultural technology of gladioli: I planted it in April, and in the fall, after cutting off the leaves and roots, I dried it and stored it in a net in the basement. But I soon realized that by doing this I had significantly shortened the green growing season, which is why they never bloomed.

But the next year, when he started container planting, he achieved success. Tuberose can also be grown indoors, without a period of pronounced dormancy. The tufts of its leaves resemble the well-known chlorophytum.

But the most important problem in cultivation is the ability to handle corms, its main reproductive organ, which reaches a diameter of 3-4 cm and a height (together with the neck of the bulb) - up to 6 cm.

On the outside, the corm has a filmy coating and forms a fairly powerful root system at the bottom, consisting of cord-like roots up to 20 cm or more in length.

Each adult corm, having released a peduncle, then dies, giving rise to a large number of children - up to 20 or more in the nest. But what’s interesting is that young animals in their first year of life sometimes produce no less number of offspring.

Thus, tuberose has a very high vegetative propagation rate. Moreover, in the summer you can periodically separate such cuttings from their mothers, which stimulates the formation of new ones. But I think this technique should not be overused, as it depletes the mother plant.

Young plants are planted separately and, having provided good care, by the end of summer they produce quite large corms, which can bloom next year. Sometimes the preparation of a tuber for flowering lasts for two years. In general, flowering can only be expected from corms that have reached a diameter of 2 cm or more. When planting, I deepen them by 1-2 cm - this way they are better warmed up by the sun.

In my opinion, it is impossible to obtain seeds in open ground in the middle zone.

Infectious diseases and pests, except for spider mites, fortunately avoid the flower in my area.

This is such an amazing and not at all simple wax flower, which came to us from the ancient great empire of the Mayan American Indians and witnessed the discovery of the New World.

Tuberose is a beautiful, unusual and not very popular plant. By the way, it was in great demand in the 19th century, and then was undeservedly forgotten. The culture is often called night violet - for its sweet and rich aroma, which in the evening spreads tens of meters around the area.

Description

The tuberose inflorescence consists of 15-30 flowers, the diameter of each is from 3 to 5 cm. The root system is a corm with a diameter of 2-7 cm with a film coating. A cord-like powerful root system is formed at the bottom. The leaves have parallel veins, are slightly elongated, and are linear in type.

In the 19th century, tuberose was grown in the gardens of the nobility and wealthy citizens; it was considered a symbol of wealth and prosperity.

The height of the stem can reach 1 m. Due to its decorative appearance, this plant is often used to decorate flower beds and flower beds. Read more about the types and creation of a garden flower bed.

Tuberose buds have a pink tint, and the blooming flowers are white, with a waxy coating, the petals are dense, and the aroma is characteristic. Since the culture has been known since the 16th century, a large number of its selections of different shades, double varieties, have been bred. Flowering in open ground lasts on average from early July to October (depending on the variety).

The corm blooms only once, after which it can be used for propagation.

Varieties

In horticultural culture, 13 types of tuberose are known. The most popular varieties:

• Polyanthes latifolia– the leaves are wide, shiny, have a light green tint. The bulbs are approximately 3 by 5 cm. The flowers are solitary and do not grow larger than 4 cm. Flowering lasts a month, beginning in May;

Polyanthes latifolia

• Polyanthes tuberiferous– the leaves grow up to 50 cm, the plant itself is about 1 m in height. The flowers are tubular, diameter 5-6 cm, number in one inflorescence 10-30. In the classic version, the variety has white flowers, but its selections can also be multi-colored. The corm is filmy, there are many children, the aroma is strong.
• The Pearl– terry fragrant tuberose, leaves reach 30 cm, the height of the perennial itself is 50-65 cm. When in bloom, the flowers look like white stars up to 5 cm in diameter. In our climate, the variety is grown mainly in pots.
• Pearl– semi-double variety with a bright aroma. The leaves are long, bright green in color, with a pronounced blue tint. It is recommended to choose a planting site that is drained and well-lit. The flowers are white, waxy; the stem usually does not grow more than 0.9 m in height. See more options for perennial garden flowers

Polyanthes tuberiferous is used in perfumery.

Germination of seedlings

In Crimea, tuberose can be immediately planted in the ground - the tubers quickly take root in the southern climate and grow well. In cooler regions, it is recommended to germinate the planting material - place it in peat or moss, keep it in the dark and warm until the first shoots appear.

Then the corms will need to be placed in pots filled with a nutritious light substrate, and in May they can be transferred to the ground.

For good drainage, plant tuberose on a sandy bed.

Also, the southern night beauty is grown using gladioli technology. Before freezing, the underground parts are dug up and washed, if necessary, they are disinfected. The tubers will need to be thoroughly dried and stored at a temperature of 10 to 15 °C, lightly sprinkled with sawdust or.

Planting time and transplantation into open ground

Growing tuberose in containers is considered the most effective - it allows you to prepare strong, strong tubers for transfer to the ground. The crop is transplanted into open soil in the spring - around April-May. The depth of the tubers should be from 1 to 3 cm, no more is needed. If you did everything correctly, the first shoots should hatch in 3-4 weeks.

The distance between the bulbs when transplanting into the ground should not be less than 15 cm - babies fit normally in more cramped conditions, but adult plants begin to wither.

When choosing a site for planting, look at the soil structure - the soil should be fertile and light. Place a sand cushion on the flowerbed - it will provide high-quality drainage and create the necessary conditions for the normal growth of crops.

Care

Tuberose grows best in sunny open areas and in fertile soil (the soil should not be too light). Good drainage is a prerequisite for its normal growth. It is recommended to use warm water for irrigation; fertilizing is applied using mineral fertilizers - choose balanced formulations, since excess nitrogen causes lodging and stretching of crops.

Organic matter also needs to be added from time to time. It can be cow, horse or cow diluted in water.

The growing season of all varieties of tuberose is slow - from the appearance of the first sprouts to active flowering it takes up to six months.

If you buy planting material, choose tubers at least 2 cm in diameter, since smaller ones will definitely not bloom this season. The base should be cone-shaped and convex. Tuberose freezes out at subzero temperatures, so all underground parts are stored in warm rooms for the winter.

To force a flower into dormancy, cut off all the leaves and stop watering, then dig up the tubers and place them in storage.

In one season, a corm produces up to 20 children, the size and quality of which depend on the growing conditions. Young shoots can be separated from the mother culture at the end of flowering.

To store the bulbs, you can use boxes or simply wrap them in newsprint and place them in the basement or on the balcony.

There is no need to separate the babies from the dug up bulbs that you are sending for storage. Tuberose is practically not grown from seeds, since it is difficult to do (it requires appropriate climatic and other conditions).

Diseases and pests

Tuberose pests:

• onion root mite– loves onions and gradually turns them into a solid rotten mass. The plant dries out as a result of mite infection. The larvae can overwinter in the tubers of the crop;

The mite affects not only tuberose, but also other bulbous plants including onions, potatoes and beets.

• mole cricket and nematode– insects and worms also damage the bulbs, as a result of which they become soft and spotty;
• aphid– damages tuberoses during forcing, sucking the juice from them;
• - within a short time they attack the weight of a part of the plant. Most often, slugs get onto tuberose from neighboring plants.

Tuberoses usually do not die as a result of aphid infestation, but they lose their decorative qualities.

Main flower diseases:

• rot (white and gray)– the fungus affects both above-ground and underground parts of the plant, it darkens, becomes soft, and rots. Sick bulbs form poor shoots that develop slowly. A white coating often appears on the stem.
• penicillosis– the disease develops at high humidity and manifests itself as bright yellow spots on the tubers.
• August disease– it is caused by the tobacco necrosis virus, the stem becomes bent, and dark spots appear on the bulbs.

The following methods are used to control pests: mechanical (manual harvesting), agrotechnical (compliance with planting rules), physical-thermal (steam or hot water treatment), biological (attract birds to the area), chemical (pesticides).

If you cannot alternate crops on the site, treat the soil with formaldehyde before planting tuberose.

Tuberose in landscape design

Tuberose is a beautiful flower that can become the main decoration of a site. It combines harmoniously with gladioli, creating with them a canvas of continuous seasonal flowering. The crop looks beautiful in flower beds, plantings in fairly dense clumps, and ridges. See more useful information about the formation of a country flower garden.

Using tuberose in garden plots, plant decorative foliage plants in the foreground.

Landscape designers love to place flowering pots with tuberoses in gazebos and on terraces. Remember that the plant has a strong aroma, so it should not be planted near the bedroom. See details about planting and growing flowers in flowerpots.

Video

For more useful information about growing tuberose, watch the video

Conclusion

Tuberose is a beautiful plant, propagated by tubers in Russian latitudes. The optimal time for planting in open ground is May (the frosts need to be completely over). For watering, use warm water, do not forget to timely apply fertilizers to the soil (universal flower mixtures and organic matter). The flower has a bright, strong aroma, so it should be grown away from bedrooms.

Tuberose, polyanthes (Latin Polianthes tuberosa) are the names of the same plant, which, along with dracaena, aloe, hosta and lily of the valley, belongs to the Asparagaceae family (Latin Asparagaceae) and the Agave subfamily (Latin Agavoideae). The nodule type of root system (in Latin tuber - root) and appearance (from Latin polianthes - multi-flowered) determined the name of the plant.

Mexico is recognized as the birthplace of tuberose. The Aztecs used the flower in rituals and as hair decoration. In the countries of Central America, tuberose grows in wildlife, and after the discovery of America it was transported to Asia, Europe and Africa. The plant has successfully taken root in tropical and equatorial climates, and today is successfully cultivated in China, Korea, India, and Morocco. Upon arrival in Hawaii, you will definitely be wearing a wreath of flowers around your neck, among which the most fragrant will be polyanthes. In Europe, tuberose is grown exclusively in greenhouses because it is demanding on temperature and humidity.

Depending on the species, the plant reaches 100 cm in height along with the inflorescence produced on the stem. At the base, tuberose is covered with elongated leaves, the length of which is 30-45 cm. It blooms according to the same principle as other agave plants - hosta, antericum. Polyanthes produces a stem growing upward, which at the top is covered with spike-shaped inflorescences of flowers 5-6 cm long and 3-5 cm in diameter, as if sculpted from white wax. One spikelet can have up to 30 flowers, which, after blooming, form a box with seeds.

The uniqueness of tuberose is that when it blooms, the inflorescence retains its original appearance for three weeks, exuding a unique, indescribable aroma. It has long been recognized in the world of perfumery as an aphrodisiac, and is used in the production of perfumed or eau de toilette (“Michael” by Michael Kors, “Narcotic Venus” by Nasomatto, “Tubereuse Criminelle” by Serge Lutens), aromatic oils, and extracts for the chemical industry. The wonderful aroma of tuberose is also indicated by its popular names - “Queen of Fragrances”, “Queen of Smells”.

Types of tuberose suitable for home cultivation

There are 13 species of tuberose, but only two types are grown at home: broadleaf polyanthes (P. platyphillus Traub et Moldenke) and tuberose polyanthes (P. tuberosa L.).

Broad-leaved polyanthes is a wild plant. It reproduces by small bulbs with a diameter of 2-3 cm. After the plant has taken root, in April-May it produces a stem up to 100 cm long, at the top of which single flowers with a diameter of 4-5 cm are formed.

Tuberous polyanthes is a botanical species. The bulbs are large, from which grass-like leaves up to 45 cm long sprout. The stem with peduncle reaches 100 cm together with the peduncle (double varieties are much lower, do not grow up to 50 cm). The flowers do not grow singly, but in pairs, gathering in the form of a spikelet. Cultivated tuberose blooms in August-September and blooms for a whole month. The aroma is much stronger and richer than that of broad-leaved polyanthes.

The most common varieties were:

• Polianthes tuberosa "The Pearl"(English: “pearl”). This is an ornamental variety, distinguished by large double flowers that form a spike. The plant is not tall, never taller than 65 cm including the peduncle. Used for growing indoors.
• Polianthes tuberosa "Sensation"(English: “Sensation”). The variety stands out for its bright pink-purple flowers.

• Polianthes tuberosa "Yellow Baby"(English: “Yellow Doll”). The flowers are painted pastel yellow.
• Polianthes tuberosa "Pink Sapphire"(English: “Pink Sapphire”). A spectacular variety with large double flowers of a lilac hue.

• Polianthes tuberosa "Shringar"(Hindi for "decoration"). An industrial variety characterized by pinkish flowers that exude a powerful, dizzying aroma. It does not adapt well to home conditions; it is grown for the needs of perfumery in China and India on plantations.

Caring for tuberose at home

Nowadays tuberose is undeservedly forgotten - this most beautiful and fragrant flower can only be seen in greenhouses and in the apartments of the most passionate flower growers. And back in the 19th century, tuberose decorated many noble houses, bouquets were made from it, flowers were dried for herbariums, and even poets dedicated their poems to the queen of smells.

Time passed, other house plants appeared, not so sophisticated, but at the same time well adapted for indoors. And tuberose became. Is it really that difficult to grow tuberose at home? Absolutely yes. The hot and humid climate of the tropics is difficult to recreate in an apartment. But still, knowing some secrets, this is quite possible. So, let's listen to the advice of an expert...

Temperature and lighting

Tuberose grows naturally in the countries of Central America, where the air temperature during the year rarely drops below +20 0 C. The plant dies when the thermometer reading drops to +15 0 C. When growing polyanthes in a pot at home, you need to remember that that the beginning of the growing season should coincide with stable heat in the room.

The plant is as demanding on lighting as it is on heat. If you live on a ground floor darkened by other houses, or in an apartment whose windows face north, avoid growing tuberose. If in the summer the sun mercilessly burns out all living things, cover the glass on the side of the flower with plain white paper to create partial shade. In cases where the sun’s rays cannot be avoided, increase watering of the plant and make sure that the soil does not dry out.

Watering and air humidity

Watering during moderate solar activity is done every other day. Use soft, settled water. If possible, water the plant with bottled still water. Half a liter of water heated in the sun is used for a pot with a diameter of 17 cm. If tuberose grows on the south side and there is too much sun, water it with a glass of water daily. After the liquid collects in the pan, drain it. Stagnation of water at the bottom will adversely affect the condition of the bulbs.

Dry air is intolerable for the plant. Keep a spray bottle of water near the flower pot and spray it several times a day. Maintain air humidity no lower than 50% and no higher than 80%. On particularly hot days, spray the foliage if the flower is in diffused light. Direct sunlight can burn the foliage if there are droplets of water on it.

Trimming

With the help of pruning, tuberose can be sent into forced dormancy. This manipulation is carried out in two cases:

1. In autumn, after the end of the flowering period, the leaves droop and turn yellow. To ensure that nutrients go not to the greens, but to the rhizome, the ground growth is completely cut off, and at the same time watering the plant is stopped.
2. If tuberose is not properly cared for (overfeeding with nitrogen fertilizers, excessive soil moisture), it stretches upward, and the peduncle can weaken and destroy it. In this case, the leaves are cut off, fertilizing and watering are completed, and the bulb is sent for forced rest to a cool place (for example, a basement).

When the flowering stem emerges, the leaves may droop. Trim damaged and dried foliage to maintain the aesthetic appearance of tuberose.

Soil and fertilizing

The soil for growing tuberose must be fertile and light. You can make your own soil cocktail.

Option 1. Based on orchid substrate. We use a pot with a 17 cm diameter.

• At the bottom of the pot, place a drainage mixture of equal proportions of fine expanded clay, sand and dry chicken droppings. The layer will take up ¼ of the volume;
• Mix equal parts of orchid substrate, sphagnum moss and sand. The layer will take up another ½ of the pot’s volume;
• pour a thin layer of charcoal onto which the bulbs are laid;
• Apply a 2-3 cm layer of orchid mixture on top;
• after the sprouts appear, the soil must be covered with expanded clay or sphagnum so that the moisture does not quickly evaporate in the sun;

Option 2. Based on universal primer.

• pour boiling water over sawdust;
• let them dry completely;
• dissolve the universal fertilizer “Nitrophoska” (2 grams per 1 liter);
• mix sawdust with the solution and place them in the pot;
• corms are laid out in them;
• put mulch on top;

Tuberose responds well to fertilizing, which should be applied 3-4 times per season. In addition to the usual liquid fertilizers for indoor plants, you can use a solution of bird droppings (1 gram per 2 liters of water) or mullein (1 gram per liter of water). Do not get carried away with nitrogen fertilizers, otherwise the plant will stretch and weaken. It is enough to insert a fertilizer stick to provide the necessary microelements.

Transplantation and propagation

Tuberose blooms at a temperature of +15 0 C, but it does not like transplants and divisions to such an extent that it can die even if all the rules are followed.

There is a myth that the polyanthes tuber produces a peduncle only once in its life. Yes and no. This flower belongs to the amaryllis family, because the bulb throws out an arrow with a peduncle, as do daffodils, snowdrops, and amaryllis. But, unlike them, the tuberose bulb dies, dries out after flowering and, naturally, cannot produce any more shoots. However, during the dormant period, many young bulbs appear in place of the mother bulb, which gain strength over the year, and after 8-9 months they themselves will release an arrow with flowers.

Tuberose is very sensitive to transplantation and division. If you manipulate it even at the very beginning of the growing season (the first signs of life), the plant may not survive this and will dry out or rot right in the ground. Therefore, division is carried out in early April, provided that the tuberose has not been replanted during the year. If tuberose shows the first signs and begins the growing season (green shoots appear), division is no longer possible. Wait until the polyanthes produces leaves, a peduncle and blooms.

Around September-October the rest period begins. To prepare tuberose, cut off all above-ground vegetation and stop watering until March-April next year. Before the first spring watering, remove the tubers from the ground and separate the children. The plant tolerates spring division painlessly. Keep the nodules in the potassium permanganate solution for several hours to disinfect the wounds.

[!] The arrow with a peduncle is produced by a bulb larger than 2 cm in diameter. Small “babies” still need to be grown for 1-2 seasons and not wait for flowering.

Diseases, pests and growing problems

Tuberose is susceptible to the same diseases as other indoor plants. Excess nitrogen fertilizers lead to the appearance of ticks and slugs. Regular loosening and sprinkling of wood ash on the surface are used as preventive measures.

Spider mites that appear on plants due to excess sunlight and lack of moisture are combated with the help of “Kleschevit”, “Aktellika”, “Fitoverma”. Dark spots on the leaves serve as a signal to fight insects. Yellowed tips and curled foliage indicate that the bulb is infected. If you plant tuberose in dense soil, the rhizome will be susceptible to fusarium, a fungus that causes rot. The only method of control is to dig up the plant, treat it with a solution of potassium permanganate or “foundazol” and dry it at high temperature.

For preventive purposes, several peas of Trichodermina are added to the soil before planting. The drug will prevent damage to the bulb by fungal pests and speed up the rooting process.

Personal experience of growing tuberose

As mentioned above, tuberose is very capricious and whimsical to grow. I also tried to grow a fragrant beauty at home, but, unfortunately, I failed. I describe my story.

April, the leaden haze in the sky that had hung since October has cleared. The snow had melted, there was a smell of spring outside, and the window sills were filled with boxes of tomato and pepper seedlings. It’s time to start growing tuberose, I decided. I prepared a beautiful pot, poured fine expanded clay into the bottom, and warmed the earthen substrate to room temperature. I took out a polyanthes bulb from the refrigerator, which I bought a month ago from a well-known and respectable online store. I planted the rhizome according to all the rules, watered it and placed it on the windowsill. A week later, tender light green sprouts emerged. And suddenly the unexpected happened. Who knew that at the end of April, when the heating was already turned off, frost would suddenly strike. Moreover, heating was restored throughout the city, and it was announced on television that enormous damage had been caused to agriculture.

Even though the windows in my apartment are plastic, they still somehow let cold air through. If I could wrap myself in a sweater or blanket, it was impossible to do this with a flower. The bottle of water for watering the flowers was so cold that it looked like it had been placed in the refrigerator for an hour. It was +18 0 C in the apartment, and this was during the day, but it’s hard to imagine what the poor exotic tuberose had to endure, especially at night.

The frosts lasted for about five days, after which a real lush spring came with warmth, sun and swelling buds. But tuberose could not live up to this. The sprouts softened, I realized that something had happened. I stopped watering and put it in a sunny place. But resuscitation was useless. I took out the onion, it was half decomposed, and the soil was not too wet. I think the delicate tuberose bulb could not withstand such a sharp drop in temperature.

What can be concluded? Wait, don't rush. Plant bulbs only when frosts are safe. Even in indoor conditions, because the windows freeze and the cold from them is reflected on the plants. Let polyanthus be planted in early May. Yes, it will bloom later, but nothing threatens it anymore. On a warm windowsill with plenty of fertilizing, tuberose will grow faster and produce flower stalks earlier.

Conclusion: to grow tuberose on your windowsill, you need to follow the commandments:

• Monitor the temperature, it should not fall below 20 0 C.
• Choose loose soil, or make the mixture yourself.
• Do not keep the flower pot in the sun, create diffused light.
• Do not over-moisten the soil and do not take long breaks between watering.
• Tie the stem with the peduncle so that it does not break under the weight of the flowers.
• Feed several times a season.
• After flowering ends, stop watering and send the plant to rest in a cool place until spring.
• Do not forget to separate the mother plant from the children.
• Allow the baby bulbs to strengthen and reach a diameter of 2-3 cm, only then will they produce an arrow with flowers.

Both in the world of people and in the world of plants, all beauties are very capricious. But their beauty is worth caring for. Give tuberose a little time and the result will not be long in coming: your home will be decorated with wonderful flowers, and the magical aroma will enchant and enchant.

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