Compound bow for hunting. How to choose a bow for hunting? Blocky or traditional? How to Care for Compound Onions

Not everyone who wanders is lost. Your bow is only a tool, You are a Weapon

Andrey Shalygin: All the mistakes that archers make can be divided into two large categories - the mistakes that hunters make when choosing and preparing equipment and the mistakes that they make when preparing to hunt themselves. Of course, you can also make a mistake when choosing the time, place and method of hunting, as well as have absolutely no skills and experience in hunting with a bow, but if you are in the right place at the right time, then it is the first two categories of mistakes that can prevent you from realizing your chance . Either the equipment you chose incorrectly will let you down, or you can let yourself down.

Let's start with ourselves. You always have to start with yourself, because if you have ever read the Book of Five Rings by Musashi, then you probably know that the author only from the very beginning of his Path of War, comprehending the Spirit of Bushido, made efforts to comprehend the secrets of the best weapons and their role in battle.

But gradually he came to the practice that with literally any piece of wood he could fight wars armed with the best swords, little by little comprehending the indisputable fact that the “weapon” itself is only a tool, and it is the Warrior himself who is the real Weapon.

Therefore, remembering that “Not all those who wander are lost,” let us also remember that your Bow is only a tool. You yourself are the Weapon.

And this Weapon must be prepared for the Hunt in the most careful manner. And the point here is not at all in physical training, which is completely different for everyone (although that too, but this is far from the most important thing, since bow hunting is for everyone, and an experienced “old man” is worth 10 young ones on a hunt). It’s not good when it comes to shooting, but your arms and legs are trembling, sweat is clouding your eyes, your head can’t think of anything... this is already bad.

And here physically healthy youth are ahead of the rest. Just like people scratch their tongues on the forums, they are ready to go after a boar or a bear with nunchucks and axes, and they discuss which tips are better, but as for the matter, it’s scary to look at them, let alone send them aside alone, Just look, they will faint without any bear.

Hunting with a compound bow is real hunting for real men

The pulse quickens, adrenaline rushes to the head, all lessons and training fly out of the head at once, the image in the eyes becomes cloudy, they can no longer see anything around... What are the signs and hunting instincts, the focus simply disappears on the subject. And he looked through the sight - that’s it, he lost his orientation in space, he no longer knows where is north, where is south, where is the goal, where is the neighbor, where is he himself in delirium. Therefore, you should remember Some main tips to avoid getting lost in space.

Tip 1. Keep your eyes on the Target and do not lose sight of it for a second while you are doing a full stretch. If you look away a little, you may never see her again. It’s good if the second time is no longer right in front of you and it won’t be a bear. You should be able to do everything else by touch and quickly, without hitting branches, equipment, tristand, tower with your bow, without jumping up with noise and crash.

As you draw the bow, keep your index finger pressed against the string to avoid frantically releasing the bow. Do not remove your finger from the bowstring until you finish aiming. Otherwise, the “grab-grab” reflex will ruin your entire hunt.

If you have the habit of pressing the arrow to the shelf with the finger of your left hand after inserting it until it stretches, then when stretching the bow, do not forget to release the arrow with the fingers of your left hand. Otherwise, more than once or twice you will have to jerk the bow and again hook the bow with the string, until in the excitement it dawns on you that the arrow does not follow the string simply because you pressed it tightly into the shelf with your left hand until it crunches and does not release it in the stretch .

A stable stretch should be felt by the position of the body and the emphasis of something on the sensitive area. We almost didn’t make it - the sight was no longer there. The left hand can still be taught to come to a straight position and finally unclench the fingers, but grouping the body is more difficult.

Straighten your chest and move your right hand to a sensitive position. For some, this is a bowstring to the nose, the thumb of the right hand placed behind the neck, a bead on the bowstring in the corner of the lip... any tactile contact replaces a sports clicker for a bowhunter.

Before shooting, take a look at the scope's bubble level and level your bow. And only then precise aiming and transfer of the finger.

The sight pins should be bright, large, multi-colored, maximum 5, so as not to get confused, it is better on the side extensions if you are shooting at variable distances and not flying at game.

Tip 2. The body position when shooting should be close to the letter T. Therefore, even if you are shooting from a tower or tristand, as well as at flying birds, you should not bend your body in the sternum area. You need to either lean forward or backward, bending at the waist. Nothing should disturb your standard stretch, in which you are able to control correct aiming while maintaining the physics of shooting.

Therefore, depending on the shooting position, worry in advance about aiming uphill and downhill, as you will do, bending at the waist, or kneeling and bending your leg.

Tip 3. When taking a position, decide in advance about your mistakes in location and the best shooting sectors and distances, - where you will shoot immediately, and where else you will wait. Measure the distances to all landmarks in advance, and if possible, mark the distances on the ground with conventional landmarks (without leaving scent marks on the ground) so that when a target is detected, you don’t have to grab the rangefinder again.

You should not shoot through branches or close to trees. After lowering the bowstring, hold your left hand until the count of 3 in the same way as when shooting, as if you were leaning your whole body on the corner of the building.

You need to have a rough idea of ​​what mistakes you might make in shooting. For example, the most common mistake made by right-handers is to throw their left hand immediately after firing, causing the arrows to go down and to the left. Therefore, knowing about such a common mistake, it is better to choose a shooting position when the arrow passes to the left of the tree rather than close to the right.

Tip 4. Clothes for hunting introduce amendments to your daily training. Shooting in a jacket while hunting is completely different from shooting in a T-shirt at the shooting range. Belts, fasteners, camouflage, mask, gloves, insurance, anything, even humidity and rain can change the very physics of stretching. Yes, you just sat in a bent state for too long - you can simply forget to straighten up. Someone takes off their jacket before shooting, someone shows off to such an extent that they buy overalls with a narrowed left sleeve and a special cut, someone pinches the left sleeve on the back side with office clips.

In fact, this is all a trick. Just straighten up and feel your body as you would at the shooting range. And don’t forget to remove flashlights, gadgets, phones, cameras, and other nonsense, including food and water, from your lap in advance if you are sitting.

Tip 5. Haste is only needed... You, of course, know when it is needed, and that on the Hunt it is not needed. We don’t have a goal to laugh, so we’re in no hurry. Assess whether the beast can see you before performing your bow and body evolutions. Estimate the distance, assess the reach, assess the striking areas, feel the stretch, move it back and forth with your back, feel the control tactile contact with the bowstring and release, calm your breathing, exhale, glance at the level, unclench the fingers of your left hand, smoothly move your index finger to the trigger , fix your body at the aiming point for two to three seconds, smoothly bend the trigger guard with a thin piece of skin on the bend between the first and second phalanx of the index finger.

However, there is no need to delay this matter. Very often the archer still has time to fire a second shot while the animal is figuring out what happened, if it was a miss.

In the classics there is a rule that shooting from a traditional bow assumes that the bowstring is released immediately as soon as the bowstring is stretched to full stretch. And even in many demo videos it is noticeable that many demonstrators, having well mastered this not very smart truth, despite the quality of aiming, strive to show their high-quality technique, certainly shooting an arrow with the end of the draw.

This is all stupidity. This rule is good when you are drawing the bow to the limit of your ability, so that your aim is not affected by the shaking from overexertion when holding the bow at full draw. If you can do it, you can calmly aim. I have seen masters who take aim for a long time with good results. I haven’t seen any fast-firing snipers. I didn’t even hear about the fact that they got something while hunting.

With blockers this rule is generally contraindicated. Cameron Haynes, when aiming specifically at full extension, makes at least 3-4 downward swing passes with his right wrist with release, shaking the aiming line up and down, each time aiming it at the target and knocking the sight down until he is sure that the aiming line fits smoothly to the target and is set at the aiming point, each time more softly and accurately. And he shoots deer calmly at 150 meters.

I’m not Haynes, I don’t lift 200 kg weights in the morning and I don’t run 10 km. So I just take a couple of breaths, inhale deeply on the third, and exhale long by one third, hold my breath and begin to bring the aiming line to zero. Having felt the behavior of my hands (and they are still not made of stone, they have a certain movement that can be predicted in a couple of seconds), I try on how my sight dances and predict when it will go through the zero mark of my target. And when he almost approaches her, then I smoothly pull the trigger. It takes me 3 inhalations and exhalations, stretching, and about 3-4 seconds to aim at full extension.

Descent. The arrow fell. Despite the urge, we continue to stand still, count 1, 2, or better yet 3, and smoothly lower our left hand (in our heads this will be calculated much faster than in a second, but during this time the arrow will have time to leave the shelf and separate from the bowstring and you won't pull her tail up by throwing your hand).

We watch what the animal is doing and where it rushed. Now, regardless of where he rushed, we immediately insert the next arrow and hook the nock. Do not forget to release the arrow with your left hand and place the bow vertically so that the arrow does not fall out of the shelf and does not get into the fleecy part of the hunting shelf if you happen to use it (it would be better if you did not do this).

If he rushes at you, we stretch the bow again; if he runs away from you, then we look where he ran. If it disappears from view, we remember well which branches and what exactly are the last to stagger, so that we can look for a trace there. Just in case, after the animal has disappeared, we carefully look around. Not even an hour later his relative or a hunter of another kind could be behind him.

In fact, everything that I said above relates to psychology, and not to archery, but it radically affects archery. Therefore, even if reading this material makes you jittery, then, probably, it is advisable to hunt not an animal, but pigeons to begin with.

Impossible? Complete nonsense. This is impossible for drunkards in boots with smoothbores, and even more so with rifled weapons. And for an archer it is quite possible. Video attached.

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In good hands, the stick can shoot. However, it's better to buy something better

If you are a “specialist” in archery, and if, moreover, you have already managed to work out in the archery section, or, what is much worse, managed to communicate with “specialists” and “athletes”, and besides, practically irrevocably, I’ve read too many forums held in basement sections... then everything is completely bad, my friends.

As one Chinese sage used to say, you cannot add a single drop of tea to a cup of tea that is full to the brim. And if there is slop instead of tea in this cup, then it is absolutely impossible to add tea to it, because no matter how much you pour, there will still be slop there.

Therefore, in order to get something, you first need to pour out what you scooped into the puddles. However, this does not exclude the possibility that a pot of tea will be poured for you from a teapot in return. Also an option. However, everyone chooses their own Teacher, and here it is up to you to decide who you are going to become like.

The main misconceptions when choosing a compound bow and its attachment, or a General list of global misconceptions of bow sellers in their ability to do this

Misconception No. 1-2: CHOOSING A BOW - LONG-SHORT, with LONG-SHORT limbs. Short bows shoot less accurately and not as far as long bows, long bows shoot more accurately and further than short bows. Actually this is not true. There is some truth to this statement, but not at all distances. Moreover, this also applies to the weight of the bow, so I would formulate this as a set of characteristics with certain caveats: Short and light bows, weighing less than about 3.5 kg, shoot somewhat less accurately than longer and heavier bows, however, with a certain weight, which depends on the physical capabilities of the shooter, heavy and long bows cannot be used equally effectively by everyone for their intended purpose. The picture below shows a long bow and long arrows for hunting large ungulates at distances of 60 meters and above.

By definition, a longbow, that is, one that has a large axel-to-axel, will shoot further only on the simple basis that the acceleration section of the boom is larger and the boom itself is longer. If the first has little effect on the range and affects only if the weight of the projectile corresponds to its length, then the second is true simply because the gliding ability of a long arrow is higher. With the correct combination of these factors, that is, if your arrows are thin enough, stiff enough, light enough, with good feathering and a tip that is harmonious with the weight and size of the arrow, the accuracy and range of a long bow can always be higher than that of a short bow with exactly the same same parameters of the arrow.

However, the choice of arrows is not the topic of this material, as well as tips, so I would recommend for simple hunting quite thin, and maybe a little longer than what you will be recommended in the store, carbon arrows with a stiffness of 300-350 and with a 120-grain tip. As for beast hunting, then you need to take thicker arrows, metal or combined braided ones, quite rigid, with a tip of about 150 grains, but also somewhat longer than usually recommended. Of course, your scope will have to be re-aimed for each choice of arrows.

As for short bows and the accuracy parameter, you cannot do without practical tests. Yes, a long and heavier bow is easier to aim at the target, easier to keep from shaking, and it is more gentle on the tremor of the fingers and palms, which is very noticeable on short and light bows. But after a certain size, a long and heavy bow, especially for women, is physically difficult to keep stretched, not to mention precise in millimeters.

Therefore, let’s take specific bows and make sighting series: The following bows were chosen for the test: Bowtech Insanity CPX (32 inches ATA), Insanity CPXL (35). Prime Defy (31), Impact (35). Hoyt Spyder 30 (30), Spyder 34 (34) (this is why Hoyts in the model range are labeled 30-34 - this is the axle-to-axel distance). The test results are as follows (the first are the average deviations of series of arrows for short bows, the second for long bows):

30 yards: Short: 2.83; Long: 2.79 - 40 yards: Short: 4.19; Long: 4.33 - 60 yards: Short: 5.74; Long: 5.10

Therefore, the first conclusion is this - long bows are definitely better than short bows at long distances, they continue to shoot and more accurately at long distances. For short distances it is better to choose short and light bows, and this will give you an advantage in maneuverability and lightness, without losing almost anything in accuracy.
The second takeaway is to beware of super-light and super-short bows, and that threshold probably lies in the 30-inch, 3.5-kg range. However, it all depends on the shooter.
The third conclusion clearly states that at a distance of 50 meters or more the bow must be large and long. And better with even longer arrows.

In addition to length, there are similar misconceptions about its width - like, the wider the bow, the more accurate it is... (that’s why I combined the shoulders factor into one item, collecting three different parameters into two descriptions of misconceptions, since shoulders appear in the first and in the third)

Misconception #3-4: Brace High, SHOULDER LENGTH or BOW WIDTH. Some people believe that the greater the distance from the bow to the string in the starting position, the better. (that is, the longer and more curved the shoulders, that is, the wider the bow itself), because, supposedly, in this case there is less distance left during the passage of the arrow through the bow, which falls on the contact of the arrow nock with the bowstring. Which theoretically should affect accuracy, because after the shot, contact with the string is negative, since all the beating of the bow and string is transmitted through the string to the arrow. In fact, this is absolute stupidity and everything is completely opposite.

In fact, if those who think so looked at the slow-motion footage of the beating of a compound bow and string after a shot, they would understand that such fluctuations occur there, against the background of which very many things become insignificant. Yes, if at that moment you throw your hand with a bow, then the entire oscillatory process will go to the side, pulling the arrow along with it, but to what extent this all depends on the width of the bow, that is, on Bras-Hai - this question remained open for some time. The logical answer to skeptics is the simple fact that the reaction of the shooter’s muscles, compared to modern speeds of compound bows, is very insignificant.

However, practice is the criterion of truth, so let’s move on to the test results. For the tests we took Bear Motive 6 (6-inch BH), Motive 7 (7) (that’s why they are called MOTIVE-6, -7, if anyone hasn’t realized yet, bears consider this parameter an important feature of a bow); McPherson Monster MR5 (5), MR7 (7); Hoyt Spyder Turbo (6), Spyder 34 (6 and 3⁄4). In total, the test results indicate that the deviations of the control series of arrows from the center of the targets in terms of accuracy were:

30 yards : Short Brace Height: 2.83; Long Brace Height: 3.08 - 40 Yards: Short Brace Height: 4.16; Long Brace Height: 4.40 - 60 Yards: Short Brace Height: 6.31; Long Brace Height: 6.30.

That is, in fact, at all distances, bows with a short Brass High turned out to be more accurate than bows with a longer distance, with the exception of 60 meters, where the results can be considered equal. It should be said that on Turbo's Hoyt bows the accuracy rate turned out to be noticeably higher than other Hoyts with a very small difference in VN. Bear 6th showed itself to be more accurate than 7th, thereby clearly justifying the opinion of the bears themselves that their model numbering has significant meaning and the top model of the Bairs, designated six, is not only more powerful, but also logically narrower than the seven (by the way, Bairs showed themselves to be more accurate than Hoyts and especially at long distances, which once again confirmed the first section of our review of misconceptions). Matthews turned out to be the most inaccurate bows of the three, which has already been confirmed many times by many experts in other reviews, but their difference in accuracy between bows with different VH values ​​was not so significant, and in many ways even showed a slight reverse trend.

In general, we can say that Bras High is not of critical importance for the concept of bow accuracy. However, contrary to popular belief, the greater the bow width and brace height, the less accurate the bow is for most bow models, or it makes little difference for others.

Logically, let's move on to the next popular parameter and opinion - about the stretch or draw of the bow (stretch is a property of the shooter and is calculated between the extreme points of the hands, draw is a similar characteristic of the bow and is determined by the direction of the bowstring).

Misconception #5 . STRETCHING. The stretch (extension) of the bow does not affect the accuracy of shooting, but it is accurately determined by measuring with a ruler from the chest to the end of the arms extended forward, folded together, covering the ruler. Oh, how much nonsense sports coaches of children's archery sections can write, hammering it firmly into fragile children's heads. Of course, this is complete nonsense.

The total ignorance of bow sellers lies in the fact that they completely incorrectly assemble bows for the vast majority of clients. In 80% of cases, the draft is perceived to be greater than it actually is. And this leads to... you won't believe it... a 50% deterioration in shooting accuracy. Why? Yes, because they studied in archery sections and read books by elderly trainers.

What are the consequences of an incorrect definition of stretching? At least because when it is reduced relative to those set on the bow, the speeds developed by the bow will be reduced by approximately by 10% minimum. Reset, that is let-off will be reduced, that is, you will have to keep more weight on your aiming hand, and accordingly the accuracy of such aiming will decrease. But long stretches are even worse!

Let's start with the fact that under no circumstances should stretching be determined using a ruler in the manner described in all sports manuals. Simply because the anatomical features of each person are different, and the relative length of the hands and bones and the mobility of the joints are also all different, so the stretch can only be measured on the bow itself at the very stretch.

And here comes the total dawning of empty heads with the simple fact that, it turns out, you need to choose the length of the bowstring not only according to your anthropometric data, but as it turns out, also taking into account what kind of release you use and what shooting technique you have - if the release is a sports pistol and a handle type, then you hold it in your fist, and with a turn, at a short reach of the hitch, that is, your pull would seem to be full compared to a hunter, who, of course, will prefer a wrist release with Velcro, and with a long leash, so that the index finger is extended touch the bowstring.

But at the same time, one of you will rest his fist on his cheek, and the second will put it behind the neck from behind, resting his thumb on the back of the neck, someone will definitely need to press the bowstring into the nose exactly in the middle of its tip... What you don’t see at archery competitions - here Who knows what? This is what the school is called today. And there is also a difference in how you rest the bow handle with your left hand - tensing the muscles of the palm or not, moving your shoulders forward in the joints or not... pushing and straining the shoulder girdle, or contracting internally so that the cartilage does not play with the muscles by stretching... There are dozens of techniques, as well as shooting styles, and stances... And it turns out that...

The difference in the pull of the same person using different releases and different techniques will be at least 10-15 centimeters, or even 20. Is it conceivable to make a mistake in the amount of pull by 10-20 cm? Yes, this is all down the drain from start to finish. Although the hands of one person are, in theory, the same.

When tilting the bow down and up, everything generally goes awry, which is why you need to shoot downhill and uphill by bending at the waist, and not at the shoulder girdle, leaving the letter T in the bow and shoulder girdle.

Therefore, you take a specific bow, stretch it in your own manner, with your own release, and only then a person from the side can, by adjusting your stance (knocking your neck and both arms into place, turning the joint with your left and eliminating a bunch of other mistakes), make the appropriate measurement. And this needs to be repeated several times. And each time the results will be different. It is enough to understand that even in the evening and in the morning a person is actually of different height due to fluctuations in the thickness of cartilage tissue. The same applies to the joints of the shoulder girdle and arms, as well as the thoracic region, muscle tone and other things.

Changing a long wrist release to a sporting pistol release or a short one and shooting the same way with the same settings on the same bow is impossible.

It is also impossible to use a sports clicker on hunting bows to determine draw consistency., since the clicker lamella can get under the ledge of the tip or insert at full extension and jam the arrow in the shelf, which can easily lead to the arrow breaking at the start if there is damage to it (in turn, a rear fragment can pierce your left support hand).

Moreover, if when shooting you take an incorrect stance or wear something that will prevent you from taking it, you, of course, will shoot worse. How much worse?

For a practical experiment, three bows were taken with an optimally selected stretch, and then for each bow it was increased by only one single inch. Results of successive series based on the deviation of arrows from the center of the targets:

30 yards: 2.77; 3.53 - 40 meters: 4.04, 5.95 - 60 meters: 5.39, 9.77

A disaster - one single inch of bowstring length increased beyond the standard leads to a deterioration in accuracy at minimum distances of 30%, and at maximum distances up to 100%.

Therefore, if they measured your stretch with a ruler according to a book, and you bought a wrist release, you can say goodbye with accuracy. However, modern bows have mobile platforms with which you can adjust the draw within a certain range without using a bow press. In any case, it is always worth going to a service center for maintenance and reconfiguration by professionals.

By the way, the following characteristic misconception is connected with this. About the shoulder bolts of compound bows - I twisted them and went.

Misconception #6. SHOULDER BOLTS. I tighten what I want, including the shoulder bolts, adjust the sight - everything will be fine. Nothing will be normal. I have a recent letter that is illustrative, so I’ll use it as an example to explain the essence of the issue.

"Good afternoon Andrey. Again and again I return to your articles on hunting issues. Recently I became the proud owner of a compound bow Bear Legion 2013. The lower block is installed on the bow - E3-CAM. And I am tormented by doubts that the timing is set incorrectly. Could you please Can you tell me how to correctly set the timing of this block? Is there a guide for setting it up? When you change the number of turns of the cable or string on the Legion, the lower block changes its position (zero position) relative to the cables/string. Consequently, it deviates from the factory settings (set by the developers of the lower block ) acceleration characteristics of the boom."

As for setting up blocks and timing, Interloper, primarily thanks to the understanding of these problems by their General Director, recently released a special manual in Russian, namely a translated brochure - the first and only document in Russian, which talks about all the nuances of setting up BEAR blocks bows This was done in the form of instructions and a uniform passport for all bear bows. Not all models are reflected there in the figures, but the general understanding of this process is shown correctly, and this should be enough to understand what affects what and what has nothing to do with the issue. Although your humble servant is depicted from the back on that brochure :) I still recommend reading this brochure. Applicable to all Baer bows sold by Interloper.

Changing the number of turns of the main arm mounting screw has no effect on anything other than the weight of the bow, but will slightly increase the draw. Counterclockwise you can make no more than 4 turns, in order to avoid complete disengagement of the arms in relation to the factory settings. The factory sets average values, which can be significantly changed. The stretch is regulated by a rotating module mounted on a block. But the stretch does not affect the poundage if it is full and corresponds to the settings on the block. On synchronized blocks, the main thing is to rearrange these modules in pairs on both blocks, for which purpose they have hole numbers. Module numbers 5 through 10 change the stretch on the Legion from 25.5 to 30.5 in half-inch increments.

Synchronization of blocks in bieccentric systems(and this is what should mainly worry the owner of a bi-eccentric bow) and their so-called timing in monoeccentric systems(that is, the correspondence of the angles of rotation of the blocks with the extension of the bowstring from zero position to full extension) - they are checked simply by eye, even without instruments. The zero position is initially clear even without markings - from the position of the blocks, as well as the maximum extension corresponds to the extreme rotation of the block. Just compare them with the pictures of the bows on the manufacturer’s website.

If someone stretches a bow, and someone takes a photo of it, then from the outside everything will be clear without instruments - are the blocks rotated the same way if there are two of them and is there one at the end of the draw correctly if there is only one... From here it becomes clear that it’s just that even an incomplete stretch, that is, an incorrectly installed stretch or an incorrectly selected release, which is most often the case, does not allow the blocks to work at full capacity (if you need it). Conventionally, the string should become tangent to the point of last contact with it of the last blind dark sector-cutout in the block. And the full extension to achieve maximum poundage will tell you the position of the main rocker arm of the cables on the block - when it turns to the most extreme state. If the start and end points coincide with the beginning of the stretch and the full stretch, then everything is as it should be.

But if the beginning always coincides in a correctly assembled bow, then the end always depends on the correctly installed stretch and nothing else. Problems with the initial zero position when loosening the arms with mounting bolts are not problems of incorrect bow adjustment, because initially its poundage is set to a strictly defined value and the blocks are set to zero in accordance with exactly this value. If you have loosened the shoulder bolts, it means that you have artificially reduced the weight of the bow and it seems to be already in a half-shot (undershot), or rather in the phase of artificially cutting off the active section of the draw. If now, with the bolts loosened, you set the blocks to zero, then the weight of your entire bow will generally decrease relative to the passport. Also with the maximum acceleration of bows - if you screw the bolts in all the way, then the blocks will be half-cocked. If you now set them to zero, then the onion weight will increase.

Therefore, by turning the screws of the arms, we simply change the physics of the bow, and if for each change in the dimensions of the axel-to-axel we also begin to twist the blocks, then we will do something like - changing the gearbox and gas pedal when changing the wheels of the car to tires of a different diameter... If you need a permanently weakened Legion, then the blocks can be set to zero by adjusting the bowstring and cables, just like a reinforced one. But, in general, all people do this either by buying bows of the required force, or simply tightening the bolts sometimes, or stretching the bow to a certain position.

After all, what do you do when you loosen the screws - you conditionally either lengthen the string for a given shoulder width beyond the nominal value, or reduce the size of the shoulders to less than the nominal value (which is equivalent for the angle of rotation of the blocks), so what should logically be done after this to set zero in the blocks - either shorten the length of the bowstring or lengthen the shoulders. If the second is impossible, then the first is the only way to return zero. For this there is a corresponding adjustment, where it is, and where it is not, this possibility is absent.

A as for the consequences of increasing the length of the bowstring relative to your draw- we considered these consequences in the previous paragraph of misconceptions - for every inch, depending on the range, you will lose from 30 to 100% accuracy.

We have examined the geometry of the bows (we will not touch the blocks for now - this is a long and very secret matter, and few people will understand what I will try to explain to you in the language of strength of materials). So let's move on to accessories. The first point of contact between the arrow and the bow is the shelf.

Misconception #7: SHELF. The hunting shelf (meaning the bristly “eye with eyelashes” type), purchased by the vast majority of novice hunters and recommended by the vast majority of completely empty “masters”, is intended for hunting and the hunting bow must be equipped with a special “hunting shelf”. It’s not really intended for anything good, and it’s certainly not intended for hunting at all. Although, it will do for a photo shoot. An unpleasant situation when you stretch a bow, and the arrow slowly floats away from the shelf... this problem is solved in a fleecy shelf, but it is easily solved with lockable falling and unfolding shelves - in the same Revolution - close it before stretching and then you will see the beast you don’t have to hold the arrow with your left hand or grab it with a death grip, pressing it to the handle.

This is it, this is not a hunting shelf - this is just a misunderstanding

In fact, it has three major disadvantages that completely make the purchase of an expensive and accurate bow, a good scope and long-term training in shooting accuracy completely useless.

First, the fleecy shelf does not have a clearly defined, precise alignment of the arrow along the aiming line. The bristles are subject to curvature, temperature fluctuations, creasing, abrasion, and individual hairs sticking out in different directions. And it cannot withstand any sliding on it, immediately bending under the starting arrow, which, as we know, in the process of departure begins to bend very, very significantly. The bristles simply sag under the arrow when starting. And the initial hole in it does not allow us to talk about any starting position.

From this point of view, a falling shelf is always better. However, you need to take shelves with grips on top so that during the process of evolution of the bow before shooting and stretching, the arrow does not jump off.

Secondly, the fleecy shelf significantly slows down the arrow at the exit, while the feather passes through itself and knocks it off the aiming line. Due to the uneven density of the bristles, the delay of each feather is different, so even an arrow with a new fletching is passed through the new flange unevenly, creating a deviation. And in the event of a jammed feather, it completely knocks the arrow off course, knocking out the back of the arrow, braking towards the curved feather. In addition, this reduces the energy of the arrow's departure.

The delay of the fletching for different types (and it is better to choose arrows with short fletching) and the state of the flange is at least 10% of the arrow speed, and as a rule, all 15%.

Practical shooting When comparing two common models of bristle-type hunting shelves - Whisker Biscuit (WB) Trophy Taker Smackdown with the equally famous falling shelf with an upper limiter - Quality Archery Design UltraRestHD showed the following results, respectively, in deviation from the center of the targets:

30 yards: 2.68, 2.55 - 40 yards: 3.67, 3.15 - 60 yards: 5.29, 5.19 - The accuracy when installing this bristle shelf is worse than that of a specific falling one, and the drop in speed on the bristle shelf is 3-6 feet per second for different bows and arrows in relation to measurements with a falling one.

Third, a fleecy shelf is completely unsuitable for preparing to shoot with an inserted arrow in thickets, in the grass, or from cover. Simply because if you even slightly touch something around you with the tip of the arrow, it will sink the entire arrow through the pile of the shelf to the sight ring, and make a shot completely impossible and, moreover, dangerous for you. With such a distortion, the bow can be disabled as if it were a blank shot and you will immediately be left without a weapon.

Adjusting such an arrow while stretching it to the center of the shelf with the finger of your left hand, or trying to do this with the bow stretched, can’t think of anything worse when shooting. Here it smacks of injury and will definitely disrupt the entire hunt, worse than that, it will fly off to the wrong place, but to a neighbor.

Yes, they are cheap and easy. But they completely reduce accuracy, reduce speed, and conceal the prerequisites for hunting failure and injury. And most importantly, are you so cool that you can shoot a compound bow sideways? Why do you need this shelf then?

You can buy something completely simple that falls, bounces, turns, or whatever, as long as it immediately bursts to the sides as soon as the descent begins, and holds the arrow in the exact position until the shot is fired. There are hundreds of such shelves, from falling ones, like the diverging ones in the photo, or to the turning Revolution ones (just don’t forget to stick on the felt lining).

So, what do we have closest to the shelf - a handle? Let's talk about her.

Misconception #8. HANDLE. An expensive, good hunting bow should have a cool anatomical handle, or better yet, a wooden handle with an engraved logo., like, for example, HOYT MATHEWS, or a modern one with rubber-latex, or, at worst, like BEAR ARCHERY - at least a rubber patch for reliable grip of the hand with the bow.

During practical tests it turned out that all this was complete nonsense. It's the other way around. As it turned out during control shooting - In general, it is better not to have any handle on the bow. For control shooting we selected Bear Motive-6, Mathews Creed, Hoyt Charger - rubber grip and two elite wooden handles, respectively. The results of shooting with a moderate deviation from the center of the target, first with handles, then without handles at all.

30 yards: 3.05; 2.43 - 40 yards: 3.88; 3.62 - 60 yards: 6.01; 4.98

30% increase in accuracy when shooting without handles at all - would you like to get it? Have you lost your desire to buy a bow precisely because of its beautiful handle? The greater the distance, the more interference the handle introduces.

Yes, it is strange to shoot while holding onto a thin bare piece of iron, but as it turns out, it is this grip that allows the bow to less effectively repeat all sorts of manipulations with the micromuscles of the hunter’s hand that appear during his movements. In general, you should unclench your left hand even when stretching, leaving one thumb in the work, or better yet, without its help. Why do you need a handle when shooting if you only need a rest?

You need to guide the body with your body, and not stretch it with your arms. The less the bow listens to your left hand, the purpose of which is simply to designate a fixed point in front, the more accurate your shot will be. The lack of shock absorption causes your hand to become stiffer, which is exactly what you need when shooting. Therefore, take the handle off the bow, the result will be 30% better. By the way, the HOYT logo under the handle on the frame is milled, so nothing will suffer aesthetically.

What do we have next to the shelf and handle - a sight? Let's talk about him.

Misconception #9. AIM. The best sights are those that have a lot of precise settings and pin adjustments, luminous and narrow lamellas that do not block the field of view, and are compact and portable. This is also complete nonsense. Favorite speculation was wrong - the sight failed.

First, the sight should be moved forward as far as possible , as this increases the aiming base. Therefore, the longer the sight support, the better. It doesn't have to be compact. but the further the scope is removed, the less opportunities you have to disperse all its pins over the entire range of distances. Here you need to choose - either we shoot inaccurately but over the entire range of distances, or accurately, but in a narrow range of ranges.

Second- since the sight should be as far away from the arrow as the peep-site in the stretch is from it, and therefore your neck, - the presence of a large vertical travel for the sight is mandatory; accordingly, this also increases the size. Half of the scopes suffer from its disadvantage. It may turn out that with a certain scope you will not be able to set it at the desired distances in any official way.

Third, the number of settings leads to huge, excuse me, hemorrhoids when shooting, and a lot of opportunities to change these settings. And since you are not Cameron Haynes and do not shoot deer at 160 yards, then you don’t need settings for such distances and all sorts of mountain sights for shooting downhill and uphill. It is best if the sight itself is made for a bow and has an integral logarithmic pin adjustment drive. Thin pins on the motley underlying surface are not visible at all, just as in semi-darkness.

Everything that is said below is said about an arrow of the same combat weight with a combat tip (400 grains as standard). Therefore, do not be surprised if, after shooting with sports arrows while hunting, you get into trouble with 150-200 grain tips with a bunch of protruding blades.

Today, the most optimal for hunting is the new, it is described in the link. Relatively inexpensive and lightweight, very convenient and quick to set up, since all 5 pins move programmatically and mechanically simultaneously along a logarithmoid. That is, a sight with self-adjusting pins for one shooting point. We targeted the first pin at 20, and any of the others as needed. Everyone else shared the space on their own. Keep in mind that the manufacturer meant yards.

In fact, when hunting you really need 3 pins- an average one at 25-30 meters (depending on the weight of the bow 55-65 pounds) and two from it in a spread of plus or minus 10 meters (I shoot the average one at 40-45 meters, depending on what I use this bow for).

Closer to 15-20 meters everything goes in a straight line, since the arrow has not yet lost its descent, and beyond 40 meters it’s really not worth shooting, unless you have a 70-pound blocker and you are shooting at least at a wild boar with tips no worse than Spitfire.

In fact, a 5-pin sight is needed no less than for those who shoot exclusively from a block gun and exclusively in the range from 20 to 60 meters, then they shoot it at 20, 30, 40, 50, 60 meters using the corresponding pins.

If you have more experience and a better than average bow, then I tried the 8-pin oval for mountain hunting, but I didn't like it, so I just shift the setting of the 5-pin to 25, 35, 45, 55, 65, leaving a gap to the ring from the bottom side in such a way that the edge of the aiming circle is set to 80 meters (I consider this distance to be the maximum allowable kill for a large animal for myself and my settings for my beast’s bow in our forests with the existing average visibility range).

Horizontal and vertical set of pins - this depends on your preferences and hunting tactics and what kind of game. Pins interfere with your review, so choose which type of review is more important to you. Operational visibility is better provided by vertical pins, but nearby small animals and birds are obscured by them.

The luminous pin points should be large enough and not small, otherwise in a contrasting forest you will not see them at all, as well as in the dark. Of course, the ideal scope is a single pin scope. But are you going to spin it every time you see a target? How will you even shoot at a running or flying target? This is not a shooting range, this is hunting. You need to have an understanding of aiming at the full range of available distances.

Practical shooting of a 5-pin scope compared to a single-pin one showed the following results:

30 yards: 2.82, 2.77 - 40 yards: 3.86, 3.53 - 60 yards: 5.61, 4.96 - Shooting accuracy with a single-pin sight increases in some way, since a person is not distracted by other pins.

This difference becomes even greater when there are more pins, and the only pin of a competing scope has no adjustments at all - transferring them to the mounting pad sliders. The fewer adjustments, the better the result of a single-pin sight.

At short distances this difference is insignificant, but at long distances it becomes significant.. Moreover, if the pin is clearly visible, then it is better to have a thin pin - 40 yards: 3.48, 3.06 - 60 yards: 5.62, 4.50 (the first data is for 5 thick pins, the second is for a single thin pin).

Yes, and don’t forget that in standard sights the light guides are cut off on the side of the sights incorrectly, which creates a bright spot of light on the side of the sight at night, which can detect you at night, so paint this place with black varnish or a drop of varnish, and choose the illumination level not the brightest.

And don’t make a cult out of sight. It all also depends on the amount of money and your bow. The fact is that Smartpin React provides a universal setting according to the logarithmoid, and, for example, the much cheaper Micro-5 allows you to customize it to your preferences in a non-standard way, which can be useful. In addition, Micro-5 still has better visibility, which is typical for vertical pins. And one more thing - the long bracket on the Micro-5, like any long bracket on any scope, makes it possible to aim much more accurately. The further away the sight is, the more accurate the shot. But then accelerating the pins over distances will be more difficult - the range of ranges is reduced, and five pins become redundant.

Many archers eventually develop a desire to hunt in natural spaces. The question arises, which bow is preferable for hunting - or? In almost every way, the compound bow wins this debate. If you compare these two types of weapons with each other, a clear picture of advantages and disadvantages emerges.

There are two characteristics of a traditional bow that can be considered a plus:

• less weight, allowing you to travel long distances in rough terrain with less load
• the ability to quickly reload, but a high, excellent rate of fire is not a sign of excellent accuracy

A study of the characteristics necessary for successful hunting indicates the advantages of a compound bow:

• string tension - this tension directly affects the speed at which it flies. Experience shows that in order to hit large animals, such as wild boar, the tension force of the bowstring should be within 27 kg with an arrow weight of about 30 g
• range of the shot - it is a mistake to assume that too long a range of such shooting is decisive. The optimal striking range for hunting does not go beyond 60 meters, and a bow that shoots at a hundred meters is absolutely not needed. A hunting compound bow provides an accurate shot at the required distance, while a traditional shot hardly exceeds 25 meters
• sights - diopter, collimator, standard optical sights - these are the advantages of a compound bow; the accuracy of a traditional one is ensured by a standard mechanical sight

The advantages of block weapons for hunting are obvious.

You should remember not only the advantages of weapons, but also not forget about compliance with current legislation. For hunting in Russia, bows with different string tensions, but not exceeding 27 kg, are permitted. If this indicator is exceeded, the bow will be recognized as a weapon, and its use will require special permission.

Selecting the right compound bow will not be the key to a successful hunt if you do not adhere to some prerequisites:

• the shot trajectory must be free from branches, leaves and trees
• aiming must take into account the anatomy of animals to inflict a fatal wound, and not just wound
• the approach to the object of hunting should be against the wind, which will not allow the victim to smell the hunter’s scent
• select suitable hunting arrows with suitable tips in advance

Cost of a hunting bow

The cost of a good compound bow for hunting starts from 35,000 rubles. Most hunters do not consider it necessary to use the basic contents of the kits. Shako, shelf, release, arrows and are often purchased individually.

How to choose a bow for hunting? Blocky or traditional? was last modified: June 1st, 2017 by Anatoly Kanishchev

Several centuries ago, a homemade bow for hunting was the only weapon of the ancient Russian warrior. In addition to military campaigns, onions were used to obtain food. Hunting with throwing weapons is in the genes of any Slav, so you shouldn’t be surprised at the spontaneous desire to buy a bow, master shooting and go hunting. If the purchase of firearms is stopped by the problem of obtaining permits from the Ministry of Internal Affairs and licenses from hunting grounds, then with throwing weapons things are a little simpler. Having studied the legal norms, you can begin to search for the required weapon.

Legal standards

There are many disputes on the Internet between owners and potential buyers regarding the legality of purchasing, carrying and using throwing weapons, which include bows and crossbows. Each state in the post-Soviet space has its own legal framework. For Russia, for example, there is a Federal Law “On Weapons” 150-F3. If we put together articles 3, 6 and 13, we can conclude that throwing weapons in Russia are allowed only to participants in sports sections and for carrying out research and preventive work related to the immobilization and injection of animal objects. Bowhunting can freely hide behind this law. There is also GOST R 51715-2001, which allows the presence of throwing weapons, the tension force of which is no more than 12 kg.

What's Really Happening

Taking into account the fact that sellers of all gun stores provide a certificate that gives the right to use throwing weapons without permits for sports and recreational shooting, we can conclude that a bow purchased in a store will not bring problems with the law to the new owner. To ensure that the licensing authorities do not have many questions when importing throwing weapons, they resort to tricks to reduce the power of the shot; a reinforced set with complete installation instructions is included with the bow. Sometimes weapons, especially professional compound bows for hunting, are sold in parts. In any case, it is important for a novice hunter to remember that an administrative violation under the article “poaching” is given to any person who is caught with a weapon and a carcass at the scene of a crime. “If” they get caught!

An interesting loophole for novice hunters

Recently, the “Russian Bow Hunting Club” appeared in Russia. A rather interesting organization in a country where bow hunting is prohibited, it immediately attracted the attention of both hunters and animal lovers, who “put a spoke in the wheels” of club members who want to legalize bow hunting in the vastness of Russia. This club is attractive because it conducts seminars on training in shooting with throwing weapons, and based on the results of the exam, it can award a license that allows you to practice bow hunting in countries that do not have a ban. And there are about thirty such countries in the world - there is room to roam! For example, in nearby Belarus, bow hunting is allowed. You can also go to Bulgaria or Africa to get trophies without any problems; the club is ready to help with organizing the trip. A license from this club allows hunting in special enclosures registered in the unified state register. Over the past year, about a hundred such enclosures have been registered across Russia; their area is 100-1000 hectares and includes forest lands. There's a lot to think about.

The right approach to buying onions

You can understand people who recommend purchasing the cheapest classic option as your first bow. With minimal costs, it will not be so difficult to say goodbye to the finances spent on purchasing weapons if you lose interest in them. But professional athletes think differently. Having picked up a toy and not getting the required result, the desire to shoot a bow can disappear forever, and a real bow, capable of piercing a centimeter board from fifty meters, will become the idol of any novice shooter.

There is only one conclusion: if you plan to hunt with a bow, then the choice should not fall on a cheap purchase. Cost savings can be achieved by choosing an entry-level weapon. The tension force of the bow must be at least ten kilograms, otherwise you can forget about hunting. Ideally, for a beginning hunter of feathered and fur-bearing animals, it is recommended to purchase a “thirty” - 30 pounds, this is a tension of about 13.5 kg.

How different are they?

The huge selection of throwing weapons on the market will stun not only the novice hunter, but also the experienced shooter. Determining your needs will help you narrow down a wide range of products: inexpensive price, purpose of use - “hunting” and ease of shooting. As a result, the choice of bow will be made from four categories.

1. Olympic. It is also called classic due to its appearance, the style of which has been maintained for centuries.
2. Recursive. In terms of quality and efficiency, it is not inferior to the classics, but its weight and size are reduced for ease of transportation.
3. Traditional. Each state produces such a bow using its own technology, and its appearance often causes mistrust. However, high efficiency quickly puts everything in its place, and bow hunting promises to be productive.
4. Blocky. Innovative developments by engineers have made it possible to create a bow consisting of blocks that allows one to obtain excellent shot power with little effort.

Mastering a simple device

When wondering which bow is best for a beginner in hunting, many look towards block devices, the price of which is significantly higher than their competitors. All beginners, without exception, are recommended to purchase an Olympic bow as their first throwing weapon. And you shouldn’t think that after the shooter learns to use a weapon, interest in the bow will quickly disappear. The classic has great potential for improvement. Installing a stabilization system and sight will be of interest to any hunter.

It will take more than one month, and perhaps even a year, until a novice hunter masters the basics of archery. For full training, professionals recommend shooting about a hundred arrows a day so that your hand gets used to the weapon, the tension on the bowstring is not painful, and the arrows fly in the right direction.

From simple to complex

Shooting a matchbox from a classic bow from a distance of 20-30 meters and “hitting a squirrel in the eye” are completely different concepts, for example, because a matchbox has no legs. Most hunters achieved the ease of shooting at a moving target through long and hard training. Just remember the ancient Russian poem, which mentions the gray-haired archers, who have no equal in the world.

Before purchasing, a new hunter needs to be prepared for the long-term training that archery requires. Hunting will be effective only for a person who is fluent in throwing weapons. It is possible to speed up learning, but to do this you will have to fork out money, because buying a compound bow requires serious financial expenses.

Best throwing weapon

Yes, a compound bow for hunting is considered an expensive, but very effective purchase. Learning to shoot from such a device will not be difficult. All thanks to specialized bowstring tension mechanisms. Naturally, compound bows come in several types, which have their own advantages and disadvantages.

1. Solo block. It is a single block in a rigid design. The lightweight design is quite simple and any beginner can handle it.
2. Hard block. The double system with rigid blocks has incredible power and high accuracy when shooting. However, a complex system requires careful handling and constant maintenance. For the professional, this is the best compound bow for hunting.
3. Round blocks. You won’t be able to shoot quickly from such a bow, but they have no equal in terms of accuracy and noiselessness of shooting.
4. Soft blocks. Along with high power, they provide good accuracy. They cannot be called silent, but the simplicity of the design may interest beginners.

If you want to do it well, do it yourself

Neanderthals, having only the “gifts of nature” at hand, somehow created weapons for hunting. A person of the 21st century has much more opportunities. What do you need to make a bow for hunting with your own hands? To make it, wood must have a number of useful properties: be uniform, durable, flexible and look attractive. To create a bow, you can use juniper, birch, oak, cedar, willow, rowan and elm. Be sure to remove the bark from the workpiece. It’s quite easy to determine the size of the bow; you need to measure the distance from the beginning of the thigh to the tip of the index finger of the shooter’s outstretched hand - this will be the length of the throwing weapon. Stepping back 1.3 cm from each edge of the shaft, cut out shallow grooves for the bowstring. After that, the onion needs to be grated with animal fat and dried. It is recommended to make the bowstring from either silk threads. Those who like experimenting should try stretching a thin rope or making a “braid” from Chinese nylon threads for fishing.

Creation of a shooting complex

The homemade bow for hunting is ready, and you need to decide what to do with the arrows. First of all, the length of the arrow is determined. It is equal to the length of the arm, starting from the shoulder joint and ending with the tip of the shooter’s index finger. The arrow should be smooth, even, straight and have a diameter within 6-8 mm. There are a lot of options for creating arrows, and you won’t be able to find a perfectly flat piece. In any case, you will have to modify the arrow with a knife, a plane, and a blank of the required size can be found in the forest, cut from a tree branch. In urban conditions, processing of mounting beads has proven itself to be effective, albeit with a lot of time. Many new shooters use bicycle spokes as their first arrows. It is up to the user to invent the feathers and tips on their own, because their creation is a creative approach that depends not only on the author’s imagination, but also on knowledge of physics and aerodynamics. You must always remember that the flight of an arrow depends not only on the efforts of the hunter; the flight is greatly influenced by the feathers.

Alternative option

There is another way to make a bow for hunting. You can order the production of a bow from a real master in the production of throwing weapons. Until now, many countries in Asia, Southeast Africa, South America and people actively use bows and crossbows for hunting. Naturally, they do not buy weapons in a store, but make them with their own hands using ancient family technologies that are passed on from one generation to another. True traditional bows are every bit as good as the more expensive and advanced compound designs. And their reliability and ease of use will provide the hunter with fresh meat in the house for a long time. As an alternative, you can search for the desired weapon at foreign auctions on the Internet. Sometimes you come across worthy things.

Finally

Each novice shooter determines for himself the best bow for hunting. It cannot be said that it is better because of its cheapness, and the block device is undeniably superior to competitors with incredible power and shooting accuracy. For every person, owning a weapon is its own story, which sometimes haunts him since childhood. Often, many novice shooters learn to hunt with their own bow, and some, exploring foreign history and traditions, long to immerse themselves in the atmosphere and culture of a thousand years ago and order the manufacture of weapons from craftsmen in Yakutia or the Nivkhi people. Each hunter independently determines his own destiny.

Choosing a bow for hunting

Bow hunting is a fun and interesting activity. Unfortunately, bow hunting is prohibited on the territory of the Russian Federation, although there is some progress. Recently, the State Duma sent for consideration a draft law allowing bow hunting. But even now there are private reserves where you can hunt under the supervision of rangers. You can also go to Belarus or Bulgaria. And in many foreign countries this is a common type of hunting.

Criterias of choice

How to choose a bow for hunting? First you need to know that an animal or bird will not let a person get closer than 30–50 meters. And further than 50 meters it is very difficult to make an accurate shot. The accuracy and destructive power of the arrow decreases, which increases the chance of being wounded.

This means that a bow for hunting must have two main qualities:

• power (especially for large animals);
• accuracy (human influence on the accuracy of the shot should be reduced to a minimum).

Modern compound bows fully meet these criteria. But many experienced hunters prefer a classic or traditional bow for hunting. This allows them to merge more with nature and feel one on one with the beast.

Since in most cases, to get close to the animal, you need to walk long distances. Sometimes through the wilds and thickets. Then a bow for hunting must have several more qualities in addition to those presented above:

• size (the smaller the bow, the less it clings to branches and grass. The closer we can get to the animal;
• weight (sometimes the distance that needs to be covered, where animals allowed for hunting live, can be more than tens of kilometers, among hills and mountains. Therefore, every meter traveled increases the weight of the bow;
• convenience when shooting (a bow for hunting should be easy to hold when aiming, the hunter should not think that the bow is caught somewhere, that the arrow may fall off the shelf, that the sight is not lost.

And again, the modern compound bow has all these qualities. But all the advantages can be offset by one disadvantage - the price. Although many famous hunters with a compound bow subsequently switched to a classic bow. What are their differences, pros and cons?

If you are a fan of classic hunting, like to stay close to nature, enjoy simplicity and history, then try a classic or traditional recurve bow.

In this case, pay attention to hunting bows from the famous company Bear Archery. One of the few companies that currently produces traditional bows for hunting. Made from valuable wood, glued together in layers, and with the addition of composite materials. These bows are like a work of art. Beautiful, powerful and deadly.

A traditional bow, 140 cm long, with a draw weight of up to 27 kg, an excellent example for hunting. It will not only be an excellent choice for hunting, but also a pride that you are not ashamed to show off.

What should those who chose a compound bow choose? For beginners and those who want to try, it’s better to look at inexpensive models:

There are many manufacturers, but pay attention to three of them. Those companies that were founded by hunters for hunters: , . We bring to your attention the comparative characteristics of the most popular models:

The bow was successfully used in hunting tens of thousands of years ago and remains a relevant type of throwing weapon to this day. Of course, most modern hunters prefer the trigger to throwing arrows. After all, learning to shoot a bow is many times more difficult than mastering a firearm. Even a professional rifle hunter will take months of training before the first arrow hits the target. Of all the types of hunting weapons used today, the bow is one of the least productive. But this is where its appeal lies. Hunting with it requires special skill and excellent physical shape from its owner.

Choosing the right bow

If a shooter has decided to prove to the world and himself his endurance and love for truly wild hunting, then the first thing he should think about is what type of bow is suitable for him. The selection criteria may be different, but the main ones are: mining ability, difficulty of training, cost of weapons and equipment for them. The hunter should also be interested in the question of whether such hunting is legal. After all, the permissibility of using a bow for hunting purposes depends on the strength of its tension. This topic will be covered later.

There are three main types of hunting bows:

• simple;
• block models.

The design of each should be discussed separately.

Simple

A simple, or traditional bow, is a solid arch with a bowstring stretched across it. This type of weapon does not have any bends or horns, and the non-demountable arch makes it inconvenient to transport. Hunting with a traditional bow originated on the American continent, when it was made of wood. Now, of course, a variety of raw materials can serve as the main material. This bow is the simplest in design, but the most difficult to use. Therefore, it is rarely used for real hunting, but it is better to learn to shoot with it. After mastering it, working with more modern types of throwing weapons will seem like child's play.

Difficult

Assembled from three parts, which can be made of different materials. Variably curved ends enhance the power of the shot. Nowadays, a recurve bow for hunting (with hangers curved in the opposite direction) is popular. Modern compound bows are certainly more effective for hunting.

Blocky

The most powerful type of bow in existence, it is capable of piercing through the carcass of a large animal from 50 meters away. Hunting with it is much more promising than hunting with a traditional or compound bow. The force of the shot is increased due to the elongated bowstring and the rollers that tension it, located at the ends of the arc. The firing speed of such a bow exceeds that of its predecessors. However, its use does not require great physical strength.

Naturally, such a bow is not cheap for the owner. In addition, in addition to it, you need to buy:

1. aim;
2. shelf;
3. stabilizer;
4. peep site;
5. slip;
6. quiver.

What these parts are and how to use them is always written in the instructions that the weapon comes with. The details of a compound bow require individual adjustment, so before you shoot from it, you will have to tinker for some time.

Proper care of compound onions

They don’t break down very often, but it’s not worth risking such an expensive and powerful weapon. Compound bows are always carried in a special case that protects them from mechanical damage and the scorching sun. In winter, some hunters wrap warm fabric around the blocks.

Arrows

They come in two types:

• hunting;
• sports.

Only the former are used for hunting. Hunting arrows have a longer fletch and a thread at the front end onto which a replaceable tip is screwed.

Choosing suitable arrows is a very delicate and important point. The arrow is the main element of the bow, and the result of the hunt depends on its quality. The problem is that the modern market offers hundreds of different arrows, the characteristics of which at first glance are almost the same. And it is necessary to select an arrow individually for each hunter; it is impossible to recommend universal arrows for everyone. The only thing you should immediately discard are cheap wooden specimens. Firstly, they are almost never perfectly even, because... They are made from raw wood, and secondly, they bend unevenly and break easily.

Features of hunting

The bow allows you to hunt the largest animals. Today it is even practiced to hunt bears with it. But first of all, it is used to hit small animals and birds. Naturally, the technique and features of hunting different animals with a bow are very different, but there are general principles:

1. In winter it is almost impossible to hunt, because... A waxed bowstring loses its flexibility in the cold, and the same thing happens with frozen fingers;
2. The point of the shot must be correctly selected so that the arrow does not collide with branches, trees or other obstacles during the flight;
3. The optimal distance to the target is 30-40 meters; the bow simply won’t reach more than 50 meters;
4. The very first shot should be fatal for the animal, because laying the arrow, pulling the bowstring and aiming will take a lot of time. The animal may have time to get up, but it is much more difficult to shoot the fleeing game.

Hare hunting

Hare hunting with a bow is a very difficult type of hunting. Everyone knows that hares are shy and cautious animals. In addition, they are capable of reaching speeds of up to 60 km per hour, so it is difficult to hit a frightened, rising animal. Any practicing hunter knows that the best time to hunt a hare is in autumn or winter. But, as mentioned above, using onions in winter is problematic.
Therefore, to hunt a hare you need to wait until autumn. At this time, the gray is easiest to find in thorn bushes, apple orchards or harvested fields. You can use bait, which can be stale meat, which attracts hares with its smell. The hunter needs to hide from the eyes of the animal behind a bush or other vegetation and not make unnecessary noise.

Beaver hunting

Beaver hunters also often use a bow. Beaver hunting always takes place near water or right in it, and the shot animal naturally begins to drown. Therefore, when hunting beavers, experienced hunters tie a fishing line or rope to an arrow, which they can then pull and pull out the prey. Therefore, you should choose your arrow wisely. It must be heavy enough so that the weight of the rope does not interfere with smooth flight, and long, otherwise when shooting, the hunter will touch the line with his finger and throw off the accuracy of the shot.

Boar hunting

Bow hunting for wild boar is a dangerous undertaking, so you should think twice before going on it. Only a skilled hunter can go against this beast. This type of hunt is best done from an ambush. The hiding place can be on the ground or in the crowns of trees. The place where the herd gathers and feeds must be known in advance, which will not be difficult for an experienced hunter. Wild boars are most active at dusk. At this time, they are most noisy, and therefore most likely will not hear the hunter, and their already weak vision is dulled in the dark.

When hunting wild boar, it is best to use a bow with a draw weight of about 30 kg. But even such a shot does not guarantee the instant death of this large animal, and therefore the archer must be ready to finish off the boar with a second arrow. It is recommended to approach a wounded boar no earlier than 40 minutes after the first successfully fired arrow, when the animal has already weakened. Otherwise, the hunter may suffer seriously, because the boar is a ferocious animal and in its death throes is capable of striking back. In any case, the boar’s relaxed ears can serve as a signal for action; if they are pressed down, it means that he still has strength and should not approach.

Legality

This issue is very sensitive. In fact, bow hunting in Russia is neither prohibited nor permitted. The use of throwing weapons is prohibited, but a bow with a tension force of less than 27 kg is not considered a weapon, and upon purchase you can obtain documents confirming this. But the use of sporting weapons outside sports facilities is also prohibited, according to Article 6 of the Weapons Law. The use of a bow is permitted only for the purpose of carrying out research work related to the immobilization of animal objects. This is what hunters hide behind, because it is not so easy to prove that you are not a researcher of the animal world, especially considering that most hunters can tell a lot about the forest and the habits of forest inhabitants. Fortunately, recently in hunting circles there has been more and more talk about the imminent legalization of the bow as a hunting weapon.

Do it yourself

Bowhunting is an expensive hobby. Therefore, novice archers, unsure that they should spend money right away, prefer to make hunting weapons themselves. To do this, you need to use strong but flexible wood: oak, cedar, elm, birch. When the future shooter has decided on the tree, he needs to measure the distance from the tip of the finger on an outstretched arm to the thigh - this will be the length of the bow.

The wood is cleared of bark and coated with animal fat. Grooves for securing the bowstring are cut at one and a half centimeter intervals from the edges of the arc. The bowstring is best made from rawhide; it should be located 15 cm from the handle. The ideal arrow should be as long as the hunter's arm, smooth and even. You can sharpen it with a piece of glass and then sand it down. Thus, hunting with a traditional bow becomes accessible to almost everyone.