Why royal hazel grouses do not bloom. The hazel grouse has no flowers - we solve the problem correctly

The flowers of hazel grouse (of any variety, but especially the imperial one) attract with their extraordinary beauty and originality, however, many gardeners are faced with the question: why do hazel grouses not bloom, what is the fault of improper care, climatic conditions, or something else?

It is precisely because of the peculiarities of care, which sometimes amateur gardeners are not aware of, that it may not bloom. long years- and therefore not very common.

Why don't grouse bloom?

There are many reasons for the lack of flowering in these wonderful plants. And here are some of them:

Incorrect handling of the bulb. It must be dug out every year, then dried (if necessary, warmed up) at a temperature of at least 30 degrees for two months. Then we remove the bulbs to a cooler place (15-20 degrees) so that the roots form. It is this technique that contributes to the further laying of flower buds.

Unsuitable soil. The hazel grouse needs good nutritious soil, but, in no case, fresh organic matter. It is best to plant the bulb on a sandy pillow, without adding humus or fertilizer immediately before planting.

Small bulbs. When buying, you need to choose the largest bulbs; if their diameter is less than 5 cm, they will not bloom in the first year. The larger and heavier the bulb, the more flowers will be in the inflorescence and the larger they will be. So, for example, healthy and strong bulbs of imperial hazel grouse can reach a mass of up to 0.5 kg, and they will produce inflorescences 1 meter high and simply huge bell-shaped flowers.

The bulb is grown from seed. In this case, flowering will occur only in the fifth year. If there are not many seeds, it is convenient to sow them in selected bowls with special lattice walls and the same bottom: this design will not interfere with the free development of the hazel grouse root system.

Excess moisture in the soil. With a large excess of moisture, the earth does not have time to be well ventilated and the bulbs can rot, which means that the plant will simply die.

Rodents. In winter, when rodents have nothing to eat, hazel grouse bulbs can become food for them. In order for the plant to remain intact, it can be planted in a circle with daffodils, and they, in turn, repel mice well.

Freezing in winter. Hazel grouse is a fairly frost-resistant plant, but in winters with little snow, it is advisable to cover its bulbs. This is especially important if the bulbs were brought from a warmer climate and grown there. And in early spring, shelter can be removed.


Correct landing of a hazel grouse

Reproduction of hazel grouse occurs by bulbs, vegetatively or by seeds, while children are formed extremely rarely. Seeds are usually sown in open ground either autumn or spring. Seedlings will begin to bloom on average in the fifth year (but it is possible that in the second or seventh - it all depends on the type and health of the seeds). With vegetative propagation, the bulbs, as a rule, are transplanted every two to three years, and they are dug up in June-July.

The peeled bulbs are stored in a cool place until the next planting in the ground, it can be in peat crumbs or in sawdust: their integumentary scales are very juicy and weak, and therefore dry out quickly. The bulbs are usually planted in August-September, planting, as already mentioned, the largest bulbs to a depth of approximately 15 cm. At the same time, to transplant to a new place, you need to dig up the hazel grouse immediately after they bloom and the leaves fall off.

When the bulbs are already dried from the ground and their own greenery, they are placed for some storage in a dark cool place. And when young roots appear on them (usually by the end of summer), this means that the hazel grouse asks for the ground - it needs to be urgently transplanted.


Growing hazel grouse - basic rules

Grow all varieties of hazel grouse in sunny or semi-shaded areas. The soil at the same time must be light and loose, fertile and with good drainage. It must be remembered that before planting the site requires careful preparation. For this, the soil is dug up (at least 25-30 cm deep), compost, peat and rotted manure are introduced, and if the soil is heavy, then coarse-grained sand.

During the growing season in the driest time, plants should not be forgotten to be watered and loosened. The soil should be consistently moderately moist, but this moisture should not be allowed to stagnate. For top dressing, you can use mineral and organic fertilizers twice a year: the first time - in early spring, during the so-called regrowth, with mineral fertilizer, where nitrogen predominates, and the second time - with full mineral fertilizer already during flowering. Well-rotted manure, compost or wood ash work well.

The number of hazel grouse transplants depends on their type - in a year - four years. The bulbs are dug up after the aboveground mass has completely dried out (for many species this happens in June). So that the bulbs are not lost, their location is marked in advance.

Before planting, hazel grouses are stored in a dry and warm place that is well ventilated, and for the winter after planting they are covered with dry leaves, spruce spruce branches, peat and other things.

Hazel grouse capable of flowering: care

Caring for a hazel grouse is not so difficult: in dry weather, it must be watered and fed once or twice a season with complete fertilizer. In June-July, when the aerial part of the bulb (the plant itself) dies, it is dug up and stored in a dry and warm place. It can be planted in the ground in September, and do not forget to cover for the winter.

In early May, gardeners have the opportunity to see on their own suburban area flowering hazel grouse, because they are the first to dissolve smelling bells.

This plant has lush foliage that looks like a panicle looking up, and bright, large and small flowers look like upside down tulips.

And although these flowers are resistant to various diseases, pests and are unpretentious in themselves, they may not please you with their beautiful flowering. Why does the imperial hazel grouse and other species of this plant not bloom and how to properly care for it?

In nature, there are approximately 150 species of hazel grouse (or fritillaria) that grow in Western and Eastern Asia, as well as in the temperate zone of the Northern Hemisphere.

The Russian name of the plant comes from the word "pockmarked", that is, "variegated", and this definition is quite fair.

The plant resembles a small palm tree, on top of which flowers are located, because among the people they received the nickname "paradise trees".

The hazel grouse bulb is a few fleshy and wide scales, but they are updated every year.

Since the hazel grouse does not have integumentary scales, it must be handled very carefully. As for the stem, it has many leaves (oblong-lanceolate or narrow-linear), but they are scattered.

The flowers of hazel grouse are drooping, but this does not prevent their perianths from attracting attention through a bright color.

The main causes of non-flowering

There are not many reasons why hazel grouse do not please with their flowering - most often this is due to the young age of the plant, its shallow planting and the lack of a rest period.

Other factors are less common, but they should not be ignored.

Let's take a closer look at why grouse does not bloom and how this can be fixed.

Wrong care

Unfavourable conditions

Of course, factors such as weather conditions, climate and soil also deserve attention, because due to some force majeure circumstances, it is simply impossible to maintain the garden in good condition and make hazel grouses bloom.

For example, a frosty winter, frequent frosts and heavy rains will negatively affect the garden plot.

Unfortunately, the gardener is not able to influence the weather conditions, even with a strong desire, however, it is possible to protect any plants if this need arises.

1. If it is useful to plant hazel grouse in heavy and clay soil, then place its bulb on a sandy cushion. They dug one small hole and drain it with river sand, then a thin layer of gravel or rubble follows, and then sand again. So that moisture does not linger under the scales, it is recommended to place the bulb at an angle of 45 degrees.
2. In conditions of little snow, but a harsh winter, the best thing that can be done for a crop is to cover it. For this, spruce spruce branches are suitable. If a chess variety is planted on the site, it must be insulated, otherwise it will not overwinter.
3. During cool or very humid summers, which occur in middle lane, it is better to dig the bulbs to rest. Keep them warm at the same time.
4. Spring frosts and winter thaw also make it difficult for hazel grouse to bloom. Alas, it is very difficult to protect the plant in such a case, and there is a risk that it will freeze and not open next year.

Pests and diseases

1. Due to excess moisture and the use of nitrogen fertilizers, rot can occur. It will be possible to understand the presence of this problem by external underdevelopment, stuntedness of the plant and traces of decay on the bulb. Cut off the damaged area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe plant with a sharp knife, then treat it with a fungicide and send it to dry.
2. If red bugs with black heads crawl on the leaves, and on the reverse side there is a cluster of red larvae and the green part of the culture is gnawed, then it was attacked by a lily beetle. And although special preparations intended for such beetles does not exist, do not be discouraged - any insecticide against leaf-eating insects is suitable for processing. Leaves with larvae will need to be removed, but beetles will have to be caught.
3. There is another misfortune, similar in appearance to lily beetles, the difference lies only in the beetles themselves - they must be completely red, including the head. Noticing that the culture is affected, immediately begin to eliminate the consequences. The principle of dealing with beetles is exactly the same as in the previous case.

In general, hazel grouses do not get sick, and their specific smell serves as an excellent protection against any pests and even rodents.

In addition, these flowers are often advised to plant flower beds on the site so that mice do not get close to them.

At the end of April - the first half of May, healthy and beautiful hazel grouses bloom, and in June their leaves begin to dry out. Albeit not for long, but this beautiful plant will please its owner - of course, if it is enough for everyone.

Blooming hazel grouse appears in our garden in early May. He is the first of the bulbous ones to open fragrant bells. The foliage of the plant is a lush panicle, directed upwards. And the flowers, collected in a natural bouquet, resemble inverted tulips. Large and small, yellow, pink, rich red and burgundy, they are like bright spots on a green carpet. It is all the more insulting if there are still no flowers and no.

Let us analyze in detail why hazel grouses do not bloom. The garden plant is unpretentious, resistant to diseases and pests. Few people risk attacking such a fragrant flower. But the mistakes of flower growers, unfavorable climate, cultural characteristics prevent blooming.

Mistakes in care

To ensure proper care, you need to know the features of the culture:

• In the wild, the hazel grouse flower is found in North America and Asia.
• Prefers a climate zone with hot summers and cold winters.
• The royal crown blooms in late April - early May.
• Loves moisture (not waterlogging), fertile soil.
• Mature plants have large bulbs, which are closely close to each other.

Large-flowered varieties bloom in adulthood, when the bulb reaches about 8 centimeters in diameter. If the royal hazel grouse does not bloom, a possible reason lies at a young age. The plant will please the second year, the third - you need to wait. The bulb will gain strength, weight and will be able to give out a good peduncle.

Why the imperial hazel grouse does not bloom:

Unfavourable conditions

The importance of climate, soil, weather in this particular year has not been canceled. There are force majeure circumstances that make it impossible to maintain garden plot in proper condition. These are unexpected and frequent frosts, heavy rains, snowless, but frosty winter. We cannot influence a number of climatic conditions. But we can protect our favorite plants.

Because of what the hazel grouse refuses to bloom:

Diseases and pests

About grouse flowers, you can safely say: they do not get sick. The specific smell also protects the crop from pests and rodents. Plants are even recommended to plant flower beds to scare away mice.

Very rarely, flower growers are faced with the following problems of hazel grouse:

How long hazel grouses bloom, healthy, strong and happy with everything - the end of April - the first half of May. In June, the leaves are already drying up.

The main reasons for non-flowering are young age, shallow planting, lack of a rest period. Other adverse factors are rare.

Why don't grouse bloom? Errors in care, due to which. How to fix care mistakes so that hazel grouse (fritillaria) bloom. What should be the planting depth for good flowering. Let's watch the video.

Why hazel grouses do not bloom - video

Hello dear gardeners!

Today we will try to answer a few questions regarding the cultivation of hazel grouse. For many flower growers, the imperial hazel grouse does not bloom, and we will try to suggest what reasons there may be.

It happens that they release leaves, but there are no flowers on them year after year. Why is this happening and how after all achieve flowering?

I want to say that large-flowered (large) hazel grouses tend to bloom in adulthood, when the bulbs are of decent size. Here, in an adult hazel grouse, the bulb reaches about 8 centimeters in diameter. If the onion is smaller, then it most likely simply has not grown up yet before it blooms, it just needs to grow up more. This is the first moment.

Second point: very often, hazel grouses are planted incorrectly - just like tulip bulbs, many flower growers do not plant hazel grouse bulbs deep enough, because of this, they either get small flowers, or there is no flowering at all in hazel grouses. Those. they need conditions such that during wintering they are deepened by about 30 centimeters. Look, if the diameter of the bulb is 8 cm, then according to the rules for planting bulb crops, we plant this bulb at three heights. It turns out that we, at a minimum, should plant a hazel grouse bulb 25 cm deep, and in the literature they write that it is 35 cm. But I don’t plant that deep. I have 25 centimeters. My fritillaries bloom like this and hibernate like that. I have red-orange fritillaries and they bloom perfectly.

More third moment because of what - these are the wrong storage conditions in the summer. Those. all bulbous crops that we grow with you (tulips, daffodils, hazel grouse, hyacinths), absolutely all of them need dry summer storage. Why? Yes, because in nature they grow in such conditions when it is dry, very hot in summer, there is no precipitation, the bulb ripens there, a flower bud is laid and then good flowering occurs. And in our middle lane it’s natural to rain and it’s cool, and there are completely different conditions and a flower bud simply doesn’t form if you don’t dig up your hazel grouse. Try to dig them out, store them at a temperature of 30 degrees first somewhere, and then just at room temperature. I have them on the second floor. garden house where they are warm enough, even hot sometimes. And in the fall, along with tulips, you plant them on some prepared garden bed.

So what about those hazel grouses that do not bloom. A certain situation has occurred. When I dug up my hazel grouse, I cut one onion with a shovel, and it so happened that I waved my hand at it, I think that everything - died, literally fell apart into several parts. And the next time I began to plant another plant in this place, I found that a small healthy onion appeared from each such delenochka. This is how small onions form on the scales of lilies, and here new onions also form on parts of a chopped onion in a hazel grouse. And these young ones are just growing up to their mature state, when they will already bloom. Here are three rules to follow in order for your wonderful imperial grouse to bloom:

1. Deep landing
2. Summer storage in dry and warm conditions
3. The bulb must mature.

If you choose a bulb in a store or on the market, then if you want it cheaper, then take a small one, and if you want to get flowering right away, take the largest one, 8 centimeters in diameter. That's when you will have such wonderful yellow bells for May 1st.

But during this time it never bloomed. Although every spring it sprouts, grows, new shoots appear. And they say that it must be dug up every year like a tulip?

Perhaps the hazel grouse bulb is grown from seeds, and then flowering will come only in the 5th year. I usually grow meter-high inflorescences with huge bell-shaped flowers from bulbs weighing 400-500 g.

But in order for the plant to give luxurious flowers, some of its whims must be fulfilled. I plant the bulbs in a raised bed (they don't like standing water) in humus-rich, light soil. Manure cannot be added before planting.

On the eve, you can make leaf or other humus for digging. If the soil is heavy, add sand. In a planting hole 15-20 cm deep, I pour a handful of wood ash to the bottom, then a layer of sand, and I lay the bulb sideways on this pillow.

Be sure to make sure that the hole from the peduncle is not located vertically and water does not get into it. I sprinkle the bulb on top with sand, and then with soil.

In the spring I feed the plants with a complex mineral fertilizer with trace elements. I bring in the aisles and mix with the soil when loosening. 2 weeks before flowering, I spray the leaves and flower stalks of hazel grouse with a solution of peat oxidate or trace elements (according to the attached instructions).

Imperial hazel grouse bulbs are best dug up every year. I do this after the peduncles and leaves have dried. Otherwise, the flowers become smaller, or even do not bloom at all. After drying the bulbs under a canopy in the shade, I store for about a month and a half in a box with sawdust at a temperature of + 18-20 degrees (but not in the attic, as it can be very hot there).

In the 20th of August, as soon as the roots appear, you can start planting. Grouse are not afraid of winter frosts, as well as spring frosts, but it is better to cover their plantings with fallen leaves for the winter.