Mark the shoes that have the berets detail. Shoe details

Some terms refer to parts common to all shoe models, for example, the sole. Others are applicable only to certain types of shoes and styles.

Boards - front part from the side of the heel, under the arch of the sole.

Zadinka - a rigid strip of material on the heel of the boot, located between the lining and the upper part of the boot, which allows the shoe to maintain its shape.

The hem reinforces the back of the boot.

Wedge - the part of the shoe whose upper edge corresponds to the sole.

Heel - heel part of the sole, lifting the back of the boot in relation to the front of the boot. The heel cup is the top part of the boot that gives the boot its shape. Heel - part of the heel that comes into contact with the surface pavement or soil.

Lining - most shoe models on the inside of the boot have a lining around the vamp and ankle. In addition to enhancing the wearing comfort of the shoe, the lining also increases the lifespan of the shoe.

Outsole - the outer part (bottom) of the sole where the tread contacts the road surface or ground. The soles are made from various materials. The main properties of the outsole include: traction, durability and water resistance.

Carrier- the inner part of the upper of the shoe, corresponding to the shape of the toe of the main insole and performing the functions of an insole. In terms of its functional features, it is similar to the toe of a boot.

How shoes are made. The process of making shoes in a factory (video)

Bertsy - back and lateral right and left halves of the heel behind the vamp of the boot. The heel part of the ankle boots often has stiffeners that provide the necessary support for the back of the foot. In some models of shoes, a single piece of leather is used to make the vamp and berets.

heel part - the place where the heel is located inside the boot relative to the sole of the shoe. As a rule, it strictly repeats the shape of the heel of the owner of the boot, providing the necessary convenience and comfort.

Arch support - a metal plate that is inserted between the sole and the insole and is designed to support the arch of the foot.

Sole— the bottom of a boot that comes into contact with the road or ground surface. Shoe soles are different from shoe uppers. In this case, the sole and upper of the shoe are connected together, thereby forming a boot.

Neck - The front of the vamp of the boot next to the toe. For those models of shoes in which the vamp and berets are made of one-piece material, the neck is located on the block.

Sock - the toe of the boot is located at the front in the upper part. Shoe socks can be of different shapes, but, as a rule, it is customary to distinguish between several types of socks: a sock that is a single unit with the top of the boot, that is, in order to replace a worn sock, you will have to change the entire top of the shoe; sewn-on socks that add volume to the upper part of the shoe; and a hard, decorative toe that is used to protect the feet in extreme situations, such as the steel toe.

Sewn socks in themselves can serve as a decorative decoration. The toe box allows you to provide the necessary protection to the upper of the shoe, which is subjected to heavy wear during prolonged wear.

Plus, a secure sockliner ensures that your favorite pair of shoes will last you through the seasons.

Interview. How to choose the right shoes (video)

main insole- the inner part of the shoe, located under the entire surface of the foot; sole- the outer part of the bottom of the shoe, located under the entire surface of the foot;
sole with tongue- her shortened heel in finished shoes goes under the heel; sole with crocodile- its heel part has the shape of the front surface of the heel; profiled outsole– has a different thickness in different areas;
molded or monolithic sole- from artificial materials or leather, made by molding in presses;
overlay- the outer part of the bottom of the shoe with a reflex, in shape and size corresponding to the toe-beam part of the sole or its entire surface, for anti-slip shoes, increasing heat-shielding properties and extending the life of the sole; as a rule, a prophylactic lining is used in shoes with leather soles.
welt- decorative, load-bearing, consignment note;
heel- the outer part of the bottom of the shoe for raising the heel of the foot to a certain height. Heels are wedge-shaped, type-setting (consisting of flick), molded with a heel.

Basic methods of fastening parts bottom to top of tight shoes

1. Glue fastening method - the sole is attached with glue to the trail of the tightened shoe.

2. Stitching fastening method - the sole is attached with threads to the upper blank and the main insole.

3.Injected attachment method - the sole is attached to the upper blank by injection molding or liquid molding.

4. Onboard fastening method - the molded sole is attached to the upper blank with threads or weaving.

5. Stitching-glue-and-stitch method of fastening - the molded sole is pre-glued to the trail of the tightened shoe, and then attached with threads.

The main materials used for the upper and lower shoes :

Upper materials: smooth chrome leather with a natural front surface (bovine, cowhide, outgrowth, calf), various thicknesses, colors, types of finishes.

chevro - from the skins of sheep;

chevlet - from the skins of sheep;

pork - from the skins of pigs;

calf - from the skins of young calves;

half-skin - from the skins of cattle.

Finishing can also be with a polished front surface, with aniline, coseine and nitro-emulsion finishes, patent leathers from calciner and outgrowth with a polyurethane coating, velor, split-velor, nubuck - leather face treatment, artificial leather with various bases and coatings.

Lining materials

Genuine leather - goatskin, pig floors, leather, chevro is allowed, textile materials from natural and synthetic fibers, non-woven materials, artificial, natural fur, artificial fur.

Shoe Bottom Materials

1. Genuine leather sole in shoes for spring-autumn with a preventive sticker.

2. Sole made of artificial leather (leather).

3. Porous and non-porous rubber outsole.

4. Sole made of plastics.

5. Polyvinyl chloride (PVC) outsole.

6. Thermoplastic elastomer (TPE) outsole.

7. Soles made of polyurethane (P/U).

For intermediate parts, for backs, leather cardboard materials of certain brands are used: thermoplastic, where the thickness must be at least 2 mm for men and 1.8 mm for women. Thermoplastic materials are used for the toe cap.

Sole material properties

Leather- hygienic, good air and vapor permeability, but it is not recommended to wear it in wet, snowy weather, because. swells and loses its positive qualities, a prophylactic overlay is used on the toe-beam part of the shoe.
Leathervolon- a leather substitute, close in its properties to the skin, but unlike the skin, it is waterproof, less amenable to abrasion.
TEP– thermoplastic elastomer – light, elastic, resistant to abrasion, frost-resistant, does not crack at low temperatures, resistant to repeated bending. Polyurethane- there are more than 100 varieties of polyurethane, so shoes with polyurethane soles are subjected to physical and mechanical tests for frost resistance and abrasion, and if this material does not meet the standards, then shoes are not purchased. Shoes with polyurethane soles are lightweight and elastic, which makes them comfortable.
PVC- polyvinyl chloride - elastic, porous, light, mainly used in summer shoes.
Microporous rubber– light, elastic, retains heat well
plastic materials- distinguished by their lightness and resistance to abrasion.
Rubber- meets the standards and requirements for the quality of materials used in the production of soles (light, elastic, waterproof, abrasion resistant).

The production of shoes is a very complex, labor-intensive and material-intensive process.

In the circle of specialists, it is customary to say: “in shoes, everything starts with a last.” The fashion designer is always on the lookout for new forms. The source material is a cast of the average foot with its parameters. When an interesting toe part of the block is found along the lines in accordance with the heel (this combination should always be perfect), the designer and fashion designer are involved in designing the upper of the shoe. The designer prepares sketches for this style of the last, and the fashion designer builds the drawings, taking into account the methods for designing the shoe upper and production technology. After the drawing is completed, the modeler proceeds to detail this drawing and transfers the received set of parts to the production group (sometimes this is an experimental workshop). There, the cutter cuts out of leather or any other material from which the designer has conceived the image of the finished product. A blank is sewn on special equipment, and a blank is a set of parts interconnected by various seams into a single whole. After the blank of the shoe upper is sewn, a shoemaker-tightener is connected to work, which nails the main insole onto our new shoe shape, inserts a toe cap into the toe part of the blank, and a heel counter into the heel part between the upper part of the blank and the lining. Everything is pre-impregnated with glue, duplicated. Then he proceeds to tighten the workpiece onto the block, fixes the long edge along the perimeter of the block track with metal fasteners. And now the blank took the form of our new block. As a rule, the workpiece must be kept on the block for a day, so that the material from which the workpiece is sewn is well molded both in the toe part and in the heel part of the block, then the shoemaker prepares the soles, the heel, depending also on what the designer intended . The heel can be dyed with a dye, can be covered with leather, or can be assembled from flicks (flicks are details of black leather, assembled in several layers according to the shape and height of the heel) - this is a stacked heel.

Having completed the work on fastening the details of the bottom, the finished pair of shoes is removed from the block, and then it is necessary to check the finished shoes for fit.

Having determined the fit of the finished shoe and, according to aesthetic data, the new model passes the artistic and technical council, a decision is made to refine and introduce the approved model into mass production. The fashion designer-kolodokodnik starts serial reproduction of pads.

The fashion designer-designer of the upper of the shoe is preparing the development of templates for parts in the production workshops:

1. cutting from the top material;

2. tailoring of the blank of the top of the shoe;

3. sewing finished shoes.

Having received positive results, the fashion designer sends a set of parts for the top and bottom of the shoe in the size assortment for the manufacture of cutters. The kit includes:

1. details of the top of the shoe;

2. shoe lining details;

3. intermediate parts of footwear;

4. details of the bottom of the shoe (main insole, semi-insole, heel pad, sole, lining).

The finished cutters are sent to the cutting shop and the mass cutting of this model begins, then the resulting cut is sent along the chain to the blank shop, and the sewn batch of the blank is sent to the sewing shop - the finished product shop. After passing a certain quality control, the finished shoes are sent to the store.

Given the presence of a diverse range, the use of various materials, the technology of shoe care is different:

1. After each wear, shoes should be cleaned:

From dirt and dust with a soft cloth dipped in a 1-2% solution of soap powder;

After wearing shoes in a humid environment (rain, snow), they are cleaned while still wet. Wet shoes dry slowly, away from a heat source.

2. Shoes with uppers made of velor, suede, nubuck are cleaned of dust and dirt with a stiff brush.

3. Lacquered shoes should be wiped with a soft cloth and protected from the action of petroleum products (gasoline, diesel fuel, etc.).

After drying shoes made of leathers with various covering films and removing dirt, dust, a heel, it is necessary to apply shoe cream of the appropriate color on its front surface. After 5-10 minutes, with the help of a felt, woolen cloth or soft brush, the shoe cream is polished, the surface of the shoe is shiny.

Finishing patent leather shoes made only with a clean cloth or applying a special solution.

To finish shoes with a fleecy top (velor, suede, nubuck), you can use finishing materials in a velor-type aerosol package.

In order to increase the period of wearing shoes, the following conditions MUST be observed:

1. Correctly select shoes according to size and fullness.

2. Care for shoes in accordance with the above recommendations.

3. You can not wear model shoes, shoes with leather soles in wet snowy weather and in frost.

4. Handle accessories with care: belts, buckles, laces, with a zipper.

Product quality

Product quality is a set of product properties that determine the degree of suitability of this product for its intended use.

The main quality properties of shoes include:

Aesthetics;

Wear durability;

Comfort;

Execution.

The main function of shoes- protection of the human foot from the adverse effects of external factors (moisture, dirt, low and high temperatures, electric shock, insect bites and
etc.) and creating comfort for the work and rest of the foot. Leather shoes include shoes with uppers made of natural leathers, textile and knitted materials, artificial and synthetic leathers, and with a combined upper of the listed materials.

Types of leather shoes

The division of shoes into types is based on the height of the upper workpiece or the degree of closing of the foot and shin with details of the upper part of the shoe. Shoes are divided into five main types: boots, low boots, boots, low shoes, shoes. Boots, half boots, moccasins, sandals, pantolets, boots, dudes, sandals are varieties of the main types of shoes.

Details of leather shoes

Rice. 9. Shoe details

1 - sock; 2 - vamp; 3 - beret; 4 - back; 5 - rear outer belt; 6 - tongue;
7 - backtack; 8 - sole; 9 - welt; 10 - heel; 11 - lining; 12 — podblochnik;
13 - shaferka; 14 - rear inner belt; 15 - sidewall; 16 - vamp interlining;
17 - insole; 18 - back; 19 - toe cap; 20 - heel pad; 21 - laying; 22 - gel.

According to the functions performed and the protection of certain areas of the foot, they are divided into details of the top and details of the bottom of the shoe (Fig. 9). Upper details cover the back and sides of the foot and determine the aesthetic properties of the shoe. The details of the bottom are located under the trace (plantar surface) of the foot and protect it from the adverse effects of the ground. According to the location of the parts in the shoe, they are divided into external, internal and intermediate (Table 8, Fig. 9). According to the degree of wear in the process of wearing shoes, they are divided into responsible and less responsible. The critical details of the top include the toe, the vamp, the front, the rear outer belt, the bottom of the shoe - the sole, the outer sole, the lining, the main insole, the welt, the heel, the heel. Responsible parts are subject to intense wear, so

Table 8

Details of leather shoes

they are cut out from the most durable, thick and dense materials. The number, shape, size and relative position of the parts, the ways they are connected to each other can be different and depend on the type, design and purpose of the shoe.

Classification and characteristics of the range of leather shoes

In the All-Russian Classifier of Products (OK 005), leather shoes are classified as class 88, which is divided into 8 subclasses according to the type of upper material: 1) yuft shoes; 2) chrome shoes (including those with uppers made of suede, sandal yuft, leather with hairline); 3) shoes with the top of their textile materials, felt, felt, knitted fabrics; 4) shoes with synthetic leather uppers; 5) shoes with artificial leather uppers;
6) shoes with a combined top made of yuft and artificial leather; 7) shoes with combined uppers made of chrome and artificial or synthetic leathers; 8) shoes with a combined top made of textile materials, felt, felt and leather.

The subclass includes 8 groups of shoes according to gender and age: 1) men's; 2) female; 3) for boys from 245 (38) to 280 (43.5) sizes, designed for boys aged 11 to
14 years; 4) girl's sizes from 225 (35) to 255 (40), designed for girls from 11 to 16 years old; 5) school from 205 (32) to 240 (37.5), intended for schoolchildren from 7 to 11 years old; 6) preschool from 170 (27) to 200 (31.5), intended for children from 5 to 7 years old; 7) for small children from 145 (23) to 165 (26), intended for children from 3 to
5 years; 8) the eighth group is free; 9) booties and shoes for toddlers - booties from 95 (16) to 125 (20), for children under one year old, shoes for toddlers - from 105 (17) to 140 (22.5), for children from one year to three years.

booties- boots or shoes; the upper blank and the sole are made of soft natural leathers (except for Russian leather), textile materials and are connected by a set-in method of fastening. Artificial and synthetic materials are not allowed for the manufacture of booties.

Depending on the purpose of footwear, the group is divided into 7 subgroups: 1) everyday footwear; 2) model (intended for short-term wear on solemn occasions, corresponding to the requirements of fashion); 3) sports (intended for practicing various sports); 4) light (lightweight shoes, which lack either the main insole, or hard toe caps and backs, or other details), it includes booties, sandals, shoes, shoes, travel shoes, hospital and sports (household) and others); 5) home (shoes for wearing at home), 6) industrial (shoes for general work without the use of protective materials and parts); 7) orthopedic (shoes, the design of which is developed taking into account pathological deviations in the foot, lower leg and thigh). Subgroups are divided into types and varieties: 1) boots; 2) half boots; 3) boots; 4) half boots; 5) boots; 6) low shoes; 7) shoes; 8) summer shoes and sandals.

Boots- the main type of shoes, the tops of which cover the calf.

Half boots- the main type of shoes with berets, reaching half the calf.

Boots and ankle boots in terms of the height of the tops and berets, they correspond to boots and half boots and are their varieties, differ from them in the presence of various decorations and finishes, come with a zipper and without it, with laces, buckles and
etc., do not provide for the presence of a thick inner lining (footcloths, thick socks), are worn on a thin hosiery. They are produced with low, medium, high and especially high heels, and winter ones with a warm lining.

Boots- the main type of shoes with berets that cover the ankle and reach the beginning of the calf.

low shoes- the main type of footwear, the berets of which are below the ankle, and the top blank covers the entire back surface of the foot.

Shoes- the main type of footwear, the berets of which are below the ankle, and the top blank does not completely cover the back of the foot.

Summer shoes they are a type of shoes, according to the design and materials used, they are designed to be worn in the summer, they can have open toe and (or) heel, and (or) calf parts, they are often made without lining or with lining under separate parts, the top blank has through perforations , large notches or consists of separate straps for better ventilation of the foot.

Sandals- summer shoes, the upper blank of which corresponds in height to low shoes, but has perforations of various shapes and sizes.

Pantolets- a type of shoe The upper blank consists only of a vamp covering the back of the foot.

Opanki- a kind of women's summer shoes on-board or stitch-glue fastening methods.

In the All-Russian classifier of products, types and varieties of leather shoes are assigned a six-digit code. For example, 88 1111 - everyday boots, men's, with a top made of yuft, 88 2223 - model boots, women's, with a top made of genuine leather, except for yuft, 88 3557 - indoor shoes, school, with a top made of textile materials. The OKP code (or OK 005) is indicated in certificates of conformity issued for domestic and imported footwear.

In addition to the listed features, leather shoes are divided according to the type of sole material, the methods of fastening the bottom, the height of the heel, the color of the outer details of the top, the manufacturing method, styles, models, and other features.

According to the type of sole material, there are:

• shoes with leather soles for the bottom of shoes;
• leather for uppers and lining;
• porous and non-porous rubber;
• leather fiber, styronip, transparent rubber;
• polyurethane;
• polyvinyl chloride;
• thermoplastic elastomer;
• artificial and synthetic leather for uppers;
• felt and felt;
• tree.

According to the methods of fastening the bottom there are shoes of hairpin, thread, chemical and combined fastening methods (Fig. 10).

Hairpin methods are represented by two: screw and nail. They are used for the manufacture of industrial shoes, shoes for the army and navy, less often everyday. Shoes are heavy, rigid, inflexible, fastening provides them with high strength, water resistance, reliability.

Rice. 10. Shoe Bottom Attachment Methods:

a - nail; b - piercing; in - sandal; g - doppelny; d - welt;
e - rantoproshivny; g - parko, h - reversible; and - glue; k - hot vulcanization;
l - welt-adhesive; m - stitch-glue; 1 - blank; 2 - insole; 3 - lining;
4 - sole; 5 - substrate; 6 - nail; 7 - thread seam; 8 - soft insole.

To thread methods mounts include welt, sandal, doppelny, parko, stitched, welted, side, eversion, set-in, etc. The sole is fastened to the workpiece using single- and double-thread seams. Use kapron, nylon, less often linen threads. Shoes of thread fastening methods are lighter, softer, more flexible, hygienic, but less durable and reliable than screw and nail shoes. The strength of the thread fastening of the sole depends on the density and thickness of the fastened parts. These methods are used to make casual, model, home and sports shoes for children and adults.

At rand method the sole is attached to the workpiece and the main insole through the welt, a welt insole with a lip is used. External distinguishing features are the presence of a welt, the absence of fasteners on the surface of the main insole in the toe-beam and shank part. Welt shoes are the most reliable, heat-shielding and maintainable compared to shoes of other thread methods. However, due to the increased labor intensity, the welt method is used to a limited extent for the manufacture of men's and women's shoes, casual and model, summer and insulated.

sandal method used to make sandals. Features- no lining and main insole, soft socks, the protracted edge of the workpiece folds outward and goes into the edge of the sole, the presence of an overlay welt, the sole seam fastens the sole, the protracted edge of the workpiece and the overlay welt. Shoes are very light and flexible, but deform when wet and dry, not reliable enough.

Doppelny (semi-sandal) the method differs from the sandal one by the presence of an insole and a lining, the lower edge of which is folded over and attached to the insole; shoes are less flexible, but more reliable to wear and deform less when wet and dry. They produce summer and insulated shoes for children and adults.

parko method designed at the shoe factory "Paris Commune". Its peculiarity lies in the fact that the welt is sewn to the long edge of the workpiece even before it is molded, after which the workpiece is molded, then the sole is sewn to the welt. This method is used to make children's shoes. Outwardly, it looks like a rand. But if you press the top off the welt, you can see the thread seam that holds the welt to the workpiece. The parko method has three varieties. Parko I shoes lack the main insole; removing the insole from the shoe, you can see the seam fastening the welt with the workpiece. In parko II shoes (welt reaches the heel) and parko III (circular welt), the lower edge of the workpiece and the welt sewn to it are fastened to the main insole with texas (small carnations), which are visible on the insole inside the shoe. Parko I shoes are lighter, more flexible, but less dimensionally stable and reliable than parko II and III, so they are produced for younger children, and parko II and III shoes are for older children.

piercing method it is distinguished by the presence of a through thread seam on the sole and insole, the absence of a welt, it is used for the manufacture of sports, home and road shoes.

In the early stitching method use a regular insole without a lip. The welt is sewn to the workpiece and the insole with a through seam, then the sole is sewn to the welt. This method is less time-consuming and material-intensive than the welt method. However, shoes are inferior to welted ones in terms of reliability and convenience; it is easy to distinguish by the presence of a seam on the insole.

Onboard Method differs in that a sole with a side is used, and the seam that fastens the sole to the workpiece is located above the edge of the track. Shoes are light, flexible, comfortable to wear. They produce opanki, shoes and low shoes for summer and spring-autumn purposes.

Reversible method produce chuvyaks, indoor and travel shoes. They do not have a main insole, the sole is leather or felt. The sole is cut from the bakhtarma at a distance of 12-14 mm from the edge along the entire perimeter - a lip is obtained. The workpiece is turned inside out, and the long edge is sewn to the lip. After fastening, the shoes are turned on the front side, a cardboard insole glued with a cloth is put inside the shoe. Shoes are light, soft, flexible.

Set-in method make booties (footwear for newborns) and Czechs. Soft leathers are used for soles, felt, fabrics, knitted fabrics are used for uppers and linings. The sole with the workpiece is connected with a stitched seam. The shoes are missing the main insole, hard heels and toe caps. This is a light, soft, flexible shoe.

To chemical methods mounts include adhesive, hot vulcanization method, molding.

The most widely used adhesive method. The sole is attached to the workpiece with glue. Nairite, perchlorovinyl, nitrocellulose, polyurethane and other adhesives are used. The advantage of this method is its versatility. They can make shoes for any purpose (casual, model, sports, home), for different seasons and age and gender purposes, from various materials. The strength of the adhesive fastening does not depend on the thickness of the fastened parts. Footwear is light and flexible, has a low material consumption, and is simple in execution. Of course, it is less reliable than nailed shoes; its hygienic properties are lower compared to shoes of thread methods.

Hot vulcanization method allows you to get a very strong, tight connection of the sole with the workpiece. The footwear differs in high moisture-proof properties, reliability in a sock. Upper materials must be heat resistant. Rubber is used for the sole and heel. They produce casual shoes (summer and insulated), home and industrial. Not suitable for dress shoes. There are two types of hot vulcanization: press and boiler. In the first case, the molding of the sole, its vulcanization and attachment to the workpiece is carried out in one mold. Press-vulcanized shoes can be distinguished by the presence of traces of extrusion from the junction of mold half-matrices in the toe and heel parts of the sole, as well as by the brand name shoe factory on the gel part of the sole from the running side. During boiler vulcanization, raw rubber compound parts (sole, heel, obsoyuzka, etc.) are first glued to the workpiece. Then vulcanization is carried out in special boilers. Boiler-vulcanized shoes can be recognized by the rubber parts glued onto the upper parts.

injection method. In one mold, the sole is molded and attached to the workpiece. Thermoplastic polymers are used for soles: polyurethane, polyvinyl chloride, thermoplastic elastomers, polyethylene, etc. They are used for the manufacture of everyday, model, home, sports and industrial shoes. Its properties are similar to press vulcanization footwear. Differs in the presence of a trace from the sprue on the sole, the sole has clearer edges and a mirror finish, you can get thinner soles and more elegant shoes.

Combined Methods fastenings are a combination of two different methods, often thread with chemical. For example, welt-glue (fig. 10 l), doppel-glue, sandal-glue, glue-stitch, stitch-glue (fig. 10 m), nail-glue, etc.

According to the height of the heel, shoes are divided into 5 groups:

• without heel;
• low heel (from 5 to 25 mm);
• medium (26-45 mm);
• high (46-60 mm);
• especially high (over 60 mm).

Children's shoes are made only with low heels; it is allowed to make girls' shoes with medium heels. On high and especially high heels, only women's shoes are made, mainly model ones.

heels glued or attached with pins (nails, screws, metal bushings). Medium and high heels are attached in a combined way (pin-glue). Heels are glued, attached with nails or special pins.

By the color of the outer details of the top shoes are divided into black, brown, bright (red, burgundy, blue, light blue, dark gray, yellow), light (light gray, beige), white, multicolor (two or more colors).

According to the manufacturing method Distinguish between mechanical and handmade shoes. In the manufacture of hand-made shoes, individual operations are performed manually.

Shoe style determined by the shape and size of its toe, the shape and height of the heel.

shoe model- a specific product, which has individual features of the design, materials and external design of shoes.

Quality control of leather shoes

Quality control includes two stages:

• footwear inspection;
• verification of physical and mechanical indicators of footwear quality.

At the first stage, the conformity of the batch of footwear to the standard sample, the type of footwear, the correctness of its labeling and packaging are checked. The manufacturer checks every pair of shoes in the lot; the seller can carry out this check selectively in accordance with GOST 9289-78 "Shoes. Acceptance rules". Depending on the size of the batch of shoes, GOST 9289-78 sets the sample size (first and second). A sample from a batch is selected by random selection: the first pair is selected at random, and all subsequent pairs are selected after the same number of pairs x, equal to the quotient of dividing the total number of pairs of shoes in the batch N by the sample size n or x \u003d N / n. In addition, GOST 9289-78 establishes acceptance and rejection numbers for the first and second samples. If, as a result of checking the first sample, the number of pairs transferred to marriage is less than or equal to the acceptance number for the first sample, then the batch of shoes is considered accepted. If the number of rejected pairs is greater than or equal to the rejection number for the first sample, then the entire lot is rejected. If the number of rejected pairs is greater than the acceptance number, but less than the rejection number, then a second sample is taken. The pairs included in the first sample do not participate in the selection of shoes for the second sample. Based on the results of checking the second sample, the lot is accepted if the number of pairs of shoes that were remarried in two samples together is less than or equal to the acceptance number for the second sample. If the number of rejected pairs in two samples is greater than or equal to the rejection number for the second sample, then the lot is rejected. The interval between the acceptance and rejection numbers for the second sample is equal to one.

The requirements for the appearance of leather shoes and the basic rules for sorting them are established in GOST 28371-89 "Shoes. Determination of grade", the requirements for labeling and packaging are in GOST 7296-81 "Shoes. Marking, packaging, transportation and storage" and GOST R 51121 -97 "Non-food products. Information for the consumer. General requirements".

According to GOST 28371-89, leather shoes are divided into standard (or sorted) and non-standard. Standard shoes must correspond to the standard sample in terms of model, style of the block and heel, materials and colors of the upper, materials of the bottom, accessories used, method of processing and finishing the top and bottom, marking. It should be well molded, finished, free of stains, folds and wrinkles. Shoes are valued in pairs. Shoes in a pair must be the same in size and fullness, color, size and texture of the surface of the materials. The grade of a pair of shoes is determined by the worst half-pair and the most significant defect. At the same time, the number of defects allowed in standard shoes is not limited on a half-pair. Only the size of the defect, the degree of its severity and the location on the details are stipulated. So, in everyday high-quality shoes on one half-pair, there may be 26 types of defects indicated in the table of GOST 28371-89, within acceptable limits, and in a model - 19 types of defects. Size tolerances for dress shoes are smaller than for casual shoes. The existing situation needs to be corrected by limiting the number of permissible defects on one half-pair of standard shoes.

GOST 28371-89 defines a list of "critical" defects that are unacceptable in standard footwear. These include: through damage to shoe parts; cracking, peeling and stickiness of the top and lining material cover film; inappropriate size and completeness of shoes; inappropriate block style; incorrect arrangement (connection) of parts; unsmoothed seam, poor seam connection; incorrectly placed heel; non-glued sole; loose or torn lining; crevices between the details of the bottom of the shoe; jams; unsealed or poorly repaired damage; protruding mechanical fasteners; incorrect pairing of shoes; instability of the skin coating; other defects, in the presence of which it is impossible to use the shoes for their intended purpose.

Sometimes shoes that have entered the trade and purchased by buyers as completely benign have hidden defects. With use, such shoes quickly fail. Therefore, to protect the interests of buyers, GOSTs 5394-89, 1135-88, 19116-84, 26165-84, 26166-84, 26167-84 establish warranty periods for socks for domestic-made shoes, during which the buyer has the right to make claims to the seller.

If during the warranty period, subject to the normal conditions of operation and storage of shoes, the buyer finds the following defects: through wear of the upper, insoles and soles, shedding of the dye (coating), destruction of the seams, fracture, splitting and tearing of the heel, settling of the heel, then such shoes are subject to exchange, or at the request of the buyer it can be returned total cost shoes on the day of purchase.

The duration of the warranty period for wearing shoes is set in days from the date of sale through or from the beginning of the season, and is differentiated depending on the type of sole material and the purpose of leather shoes.

At the second stage, shoes are checked according to physical and mechanical quality indicators: mass, flexibility, deformation of the toe and heel, strength of shoe fasteners, water resistance (for shoes made of yuft), linear dimensions and thickness of parts. Both the manufacturer and the seller carry out such a check only selectively, since the destruction of the shoes occurs. The sample is selected by random selection from the total number of pairs of shoes in the lot that have passed the appearance test. Pairs rejected at the first stage of quality control do not participate in the second. To determine the deformation of the toe and heel, linear dimensions (height of shoes, heel and heel, length and width of individual parts), flexibility, 0.1% of the number of pairs in the batch that have passed the appearance test, but not less than one pair; to determine the mass of shoes - 0.1%, but not less than three pairs; to determine the water resistance of shoes - 0.2%, but not less than two pairs; to determine the thickness of the parts, the fastening strength of the heel, heel, sole with the workpiece of the top, the parts of the bottom between themselves, the seams of the connection of the workpiece parts - 0.05%, but not less than one pair. If the selected footwear samples do not meet the requirements of the standards for at least one indicator, then repeated tests are carried out for this indicator, but on a doubled number of pairs. Shoe samples in the second sample are taken from the same batch, pairs from the first sample are not included in the second. The results of the re-inspection apply to the entire batch.

Marking, packaging, transportation and storage of leather shoes

The requirements for labeling shoes are regulated by GOST R 51121-97 "Non-food products. Information for the consumer. General requirements" and GOST 7296-81 "Shoes. Labeling, packaging, transportation and storage." The marking must be drawn up in Russian, unambiguously understood, complete and reliable. It can be fully or partially duplicated in foreign languages.

The marking must contain the following data:

• product name - type of footwear;
• name of the country of manufacture - Russia;
• name of the manufacturer - CJSC MOF "Paris Commune";
• the main purpose of the goods or the scope of its application - everyday or home shoes, or industrial shoes, etc .; generic and age-specific footwear (men's, women's, boys', girls', school, preschool, etc.);
• rules and conditions for safe storage, transportation, safe and efficient use;
• main consumer properties or characteristics - the type of materials of the top, sole and lining; top material color size and width of shoes; information on the protective properties of footwear (for special footwear);
• information on mandatory certification is applied by the manufacturer or seller only to goods subject to mandatory certification in Russia, in the form of a mark of conformity in accordance with GOST R 50460-92 "Mark of conformity for mandatory certification. Shape, dimensions and technical requirements";
• legal address of the manufacturer or seller.
• The information specified in paragraphs 1-8 is mandatory when labeling imported and domestic footwear.
• For domestic footwear, the marking must be supplemented in accordance with the requirements of GOST 7296-81 in section 1 with the following information:
• the designation of the regulatory document according to which the shoes were made (GOST or OST, or TU);
• manufacturer's trademark (if any);
• date of issue (the month and the last two digits of the year are applied in Arabic numerals through a dot - 11.01);
• designation of the block style and (or) model number;
• stamped "CT".

• information on voluntary certification (if available);
• information about the mark of conformity of footwear to state standards (on a voluntary basis);
• barcode of the product;
• warranty period for wearing shoes;
• other information necessary and interesting for the consumer.

Clauses 14-18 are optional when marking: the manufacturer (or seller) has the right to apply all or part of them, or not to apply any. However, the conformity of the goods with the declared information is a mandatory requirement for the manufacturer and seller.

The information listed in paragraphs 1-8 (for imported shoes) and 1-13 (for domestic shoes) is applied to consumer packaging.

The shipping container must be marked with the same marking. It can be supplemented with information on the number of pairs of shoes in the shipping container, indicating the size and width range; weight (gross); packing date; packer number and shipping container number.

Information can be applied in any way (typographic, or lithographic, or by hand with a stamp and
etc.), but in all cases it must be clear and easy to read, stable during storage, transportation and sale of goods, not to reduce its quality.

Each half-pair of leather shoes must be clearly marked with:

• trademark of the manufacturer;
• the size;
• completeness;
• model number and (or) style of shoes;
• designation of normative documentation according to which shoes were made;
• release date;
• mark "CT".

The information specified in paragraphs 5-7 is applied to domestic footwear. The marking is applied with indelible paint, hot stamping on one of the listed parts of both half-pairs of shoes:

• lining under the berets (on the left side of the upper part);
• rear inner belt;
• shtaferku;
• valve under a fastener "lightning";
• the inner side of the upper part of the bootlegs or the leather lining at the point where the lugs are attached, or between the lugs in the front part of the bootlegs, or the front upper part of the lining at a distance of 25-40 mm from the upper edge in boots and boots;
• a label (PVC film or tape, or chemical fiber tape) attached to the lining.

The trademark or the name of the manufacturer can be applied to the sole (in the diaper part), or to the insole, half insole, heel pad, or lining under the ankle boots.

The size and fullness are applied not only to the details of the lining or the inside of the tops of unlined boots, but also to the running surface of the sole (in the shank or tuft part) of each semi-pair.

Package

Shoes must be packed in consumer and (or) shipping containers. As consumer packaging, cardboard boxes, paper bags, bags made of polymeric materials are used. Shoes of all types and purposes, except for yuft and special, are packed in consumer packaging in pairs. It is allowed to pack 5-10 pairs of booties, 2 pairs of shoes for small children, 4 pairs of shoes for toddlers in one cardboard box with each pair placed in a plastic bag beforehand.

Fashion shoes, shoes with uppers made of patent leather, velor, nubuck, suede, white shoes, light colors, synthetic leather shoes are packed in pairs in cardboard boxes lined with soft paper or with half a pair placed in a plastic bag. Inside each semi-pair, under the sock and vamp, an insert made of boxed corton, plastic, soft crumpled paper or other materials is inserted to better preserve the shape of the shoe, protect it from deformation during transportation and storage. In the tops of boots and boots, except for those in which the top or tops are made of textiles, an insert from boxboard is inserted.

It is allowed to pack light shoes, house shoes, travel shoes, sports shoes, gymnastic shoes and hospital shoes in paper or plastic bags.

Cardboard boxes and packages must be tightly packed in a shipping container. Wooden boxes (collapsible or non-collapsible) or corrugated cardboard boxes are used as transport containers. Yuft and special shoes that do not have consumer packaging are placed in shipping containers; the bottom, walls and upper row of shoes are lined with wrapping paper. Weight (gross) of one packed box should not exceed 50 kg. Inside each shoe box there must be a packing label containing the same information as the shipping container label.

Transportation shoes can be produced by all modes of transport. If footwear is transported in special containers, it is allowed to transport it in consumer packaging.

Storage. Leather shoes should be stored in a dry, heated warehouse at an air temperature not lower than +14°C and not higher than +25°C and relative humidity of 50-80%. It is allowed to store shoes in consumer packaging on racks or wooden decks in stacks no more than 1.5 m high. The distance from the floor to the deck or bottom shelf of the rack should be at least 0.2 m. Place boxes and crates at a distance of at least 1.0 m from the outer walls of the warehouse, heating and heating appliances. Between racks, stacks and internal walls of the warehouse there must be passages with a width of at least 0.7 m. Shoes must be protected from direct sunlight, from exposure to fumes, gases and chemicals.

1. Shoe upper- yuft leather for the top of chrome-tanned shoes, heat-resistant.

Provides comfortable wear and protection from industrial pollution.

2. Lining Made from non-woven needle-punched fabric for comfort and hygiene.

3. Insole made of microporous rubber (stepor) on a fabric basis, providing comfort

when walking.

4. Soft piping Made from PU leather for ankle safety and protection against

side impacts.

5. blind valve made of genuine leather and protects against small objects, dust and moisture,

It also makes the shoe waterproof.

6. Convenient system lacing.

7. Backdrop It is made of thermoplastic material and provides stable fixation of the heel.

8. toe cap- basic models use thermoplastic material, installation is possible

metal or composite toe cap (EOR 200 J), which provides increased protection for the feet

from external influences.

9. Outsole molded fastening method is made of foamed polyurethane (PU), which ensures

very high fastening strength to the upper of the shoe and the absence of threaded seams through which moisture

can get inside shoes.

10. Overlay(TPU or non-porous rubber) makes it possible to work in various temperature

conditions. Depending on the type of lining, heat resistance up to +200°С, frost resistance up to -45°С.

11. Drenched toe Provides additional protection to the toes.

12. Deep self-cleaning tread with anti-slip coating allows you to work in the most difficult

weather and working conditions.

SOYUZKA - a detail covering the back surface of the metatarsus of the foot. In the process of wearing shoes, the vamp is subjected to the greatest bending and stretching deformations. The vamp also experiences mechanical effects of the external environment. A significant amount of sweat is released in the metatarsal part of the foot, from which the vamp becomes stiff and brittle. The period of wear and the appearance of shoes is largely determined by the quality of the material of the vamp. Therefore, it must be dense, elastic, resistant to repeated bending and stretching in the longitudinal direction.

BIRTS- a detail that covers the instep of the foot, the ankle joint. In the process of wearing shoes, the berets are subjected to bending and stretching deformations. However, these deformations are less than those of the vamp. They are exposed to the external environment.

BLANK VALVE- a detail that protects the foot from the pressure of loops, laces, and also prevents dust and dirt from entering the shoes. The deaf valve must be elastic.

LINING (UNDER THE BITCH, UNDER THE SOYUZE) - a part that is not directly in contact with the external environment, designed to improve the hygienic and heat-shielding properties, dimensional stability of the shoe and isolate the leg from the pressure of the seams connecting the outer parts of the shoe upper. The lining should be dense, elastic, resistant to abrasion and longitudinal stretching.

POCKET- a lining detail that experiences repeated deformations associated with a change in the shape and size of the foot when a person moves. In addition, in direct contact with the foot, it is subjected to significant friction, as well as to the moisture and sweat emitted by the foot. When wearing shoes, the heel part of the lining is most intensively destroyed, so it is cut out of the lining leather.

INSOLE- a detail designed to increase the hygienic properties of shoes and appearance. Must be resistant to abrasion.

SUPINATOR - an intermediate part of the bottom of the shoe, designed to support the arch of the foot.

SOLE- the outer part of the bottom of the shoe, designed to protect against external influences, aggressive environments, etc.

METAL TRAY- Manufactured from ESJOT alloy steel, asymmetrical in carrier base, treated with anti-rust compound. Reliably protects the toes from impacts with an energy of 200 J, which corresponds to the fall of an object weighing 20 kg from a height of 1 meter. Between the vamp and the lining has a rubber cuff made of soft non-toxic rubber that protects the fingers when walking.

INSOLE METAL- a steel plate made of a special alloy, shaped to follow the contour of the foot. Protects the foot from punctures with sharp metal objects, fittings, etc.

BACK- an intermediate part of the bottom of the shoe, designed to shape the heel part, to fix the foot in the shoe.

GASKET IN SOFT PIPE - an intermediate detail of the top of the shoe, serves to tightly fit the human foot, creates comfort.

GOST 12.4.137-84 Special leather footwear for protection against oil, oil products, acids, alkalis, non-toxic and explosive dust. Specifications.

GOST 12.4.187-97 System of labor safety standards. Footwear special leather for protection against the general industrial pollution. General specifications.

GOST 12.4.032-77 Special leather footwear for protection against high temperatures. Specifications.

GOST 28507-90 Footwear special leather for protection against mechanical influences. General specifications.

BOOTS:
The height of the boots is measured along the outer outer side of the shaft along a vertical line drawn from the highest point of the shaft to the sole or substrate.

BOOTS:
shoe height is measured by inside tibia along the middle vertical line drawn from the middle of the upper edge to the sole or substrate.

LOW SHOES:
the height of low shoes and shoes is measured along the vertical line of the back seam from the top edge to the sole or backing.

EXTERIOR DETAILS OF THE TOP OF THE SHOE

1) cutting toe;

2) vamp;

3) back;

4) beret;

5) laid on detail of the tibia;

6) tongue;

7) soft edging;

8) accessories;

9) backtack;

10) stitch-and-glue method of fastening.

Sock- the outer part of the upper of the shoe, covering the back surface of the toes.

Soyuzk a- the outer part of the upper of the shoe, covering the back surface of the metatarsus of the foot.

Zadinka- the outer part of the upper part of the shoe, covering the heel of the foot.

Bertsy- the outer part of the upper of the shoe, covering the back surface of the foot. There are internal and external berets.

Shaft- the outer part of the top of the shoe, covering the shin or part of it, and sometimes the thigh.

close-fitting- the outer part of the upper of the shoe, covering the lateral and frontal surface of the heel or the end of the platform.

Valve- the outer part of the upper of the shoe, which covers the entire length of the zipper (see Fig. 1).

UPPER INTERNAL DETAILS

shoe lining- a set of internal parts of the upper of the shoe, designed to improve the hygienic, heat-shielding properties, dimensional stability of the shoe and isolate the foot from the seams of the internal parts.

Pocket- the inner part of the top of the shoe, located in the heel part of the blank for placing the heel.

Subblocker- an inner detail of the upper of the shoe, reinforcing the connection of the "block-tirets".

shtaferka- the inner part of the upper of the shoe, used to strengthen the upper edge of the workpiece.

Insole- the inner part of the upper of the shoe, in shape corresponding to the main insole. Serves to improve the aesthetic, comfortable and hygienic properties of shoes.

Insole- the inner part of the upper of the shoe, corresponding in shape to the heel-shank part of the main insole and performing the functions of an insole.

heel pad- an inner part of the shoe upper corresponding in shape to the heel part of the main insole, which acts as an insole.

BOTTOM DETAILS

Main insole- the inner part of the bottom of the shoe, to which the protracted edge of the upper blank and the bottom part of the shoe are attached.

Sole- the main outer part of the bottom of the shoe, located under the entire running surface of the foot.

Molded sole - a sole that is made by injection molding or by molding.

Profiled outsole- molded outsole with different thickness in different areas.

Protective sole- outsole with a deep grooved running surface of increased thickness, designed for enhanced stability and contact with the ground.

Overlay- the outer part of the bottom of the shoe, fastened to the bottom of the sole over the entire surface or in the toe-beam part to increase the anti-slip, heat-shielding properties and wear resistance of the product.

Welt- the outer part of the bottom of the shoe, fastening the insole with the sole and top.

Heel- the outer part of the bottom of the shoe, raising the heel of the foot to a certain height.The heel is one of the most important details of the shoe, which largely determines its comfort and appearance.

heel- a replaceable part of the heel, located on its running surface. (see fig. 3)

INTERMEDIATE PARTS

Interlining- a set of intermediate parts for the upper of the shoe, used to increase its dimensional stability.

toe cap- an intermediate piece installed in the toe part to maintain its shape.

Backdrop- an internal or intermediate piece located in the heel. Needed to keep the shape of the shoe.

Gelenok(arch support) - a metal curly plate fixed between the main insole and the sole to create the necessary rigidity and elasticity in the shank * part of the shoe.

laying- an intermediate piece that fills the space between the lingering edge.

SHOE FASTENING METHODS

Methods of attaching the bottom to the workpiece to a large extent affect the comfort of the shoe, its appearance, wear resistance and hygienic properties. The bottom of the shoe is attached to the top of the shoe with screws, nails, pins, threads, glue. The sole is attached to the top of the shoe and the insole, welt, platform cover.

Adhesive fastening method- the most widely used method of fastening, in which the workpiece is attached to the sole with glue. The advantage of this method is its versatility. They can make shoes for any purpose (casual, model, sports, etc.), for different seasons and gender and age, from various materials. This fastening method allows the production of beautiful, flexible and lightweight shoes. Adhesive fastening shoes are highly water resistant.

injection method- one of the progressive, high-performance chemical methods of attaching the sole. A distinctive feature of this method is that both the molding of the sole and its attachment to the workpiece of the upper of the shoe are carried out in one mold. Footwear of the injection method of fastening is characterized by softness, tight fastening, moisture resistance and wear resistance.
piercing method- the sole is attached with threads to the upper blank and the main insole.
Onboard method - the molded sole is attached to the upper blank with threads or weaving.
Stitch-glue method- the molded sole is preliminarily glued to the trail of the tightened shoe, and then attached with threads.
Combined fastening methods- this is a combination of two methods of fastening, often thread with chemical.