How to make a smooth transition with paints. Transition solvent in a can

To smooth the borders when painting with a transition, a special thinner for transitions is used.
It happens both for the base and for varnish (or acrylic enamel- a material similar to varnish in application).
The effect of the transition solvent is that in some cases it is thinly applied to the transition zone, and then varnish (or enamel) is immediately applied to it. The same with a special solvent for the base. First, a solvent is applied, and then (until it has time to evaporate from the surface) a base is applied. And the grains of the base sink and dissolve in this slowly drying solvent, a blurred border of the old and new material is obtained.
I also came across a solvent for the transition, which was recommended to be added directly to the last portion of varnish (or enamel).
Tried to do the first and second method. Of course such a solvent helps. But when I got the practice of using it, sometimes I began to do without it. And in principle, everything began to work out. That is, the borders of the new and old varnish become almost invisible and are easily polished later. You have to act in a not quite standard way.
It is for the use of a solvent for transitions that it is convenient to have a second spray gun, to “dirty” it only with this solvent. Usually I drained the base or varnish from the spray gun and then poured a few grams of this solvent into it. In this case, I left the base and then the varnish in the spray gun. The whole principle is to make the last boundary layer completely liquid. And the penultimate layer of material (base or varnish) was diluted more than usual. Of course, it is convenient to use in this case (when great accuracy is needed) small touch-up spray gun - it has more subtle settings.
The order of painting by the transition in this case is approximately the following
You should not take it as a rule at all, but it is interesting to know that this is possible “in principle”
- a normal diluted base is applied only to the repair area
- after 10 minutes, the second layer is applied (pay attention to the base laying down somewhat smoothly. If it lays down a little dry, we slightly dilute it for the third layer. Slightly expand the painting area.
- we apply the third layer on the repair area, on the already painted area and expand the painting area a little more. We have only one layer of the base on the border (it is important that it is not dry, but rather, on the contrary, a little more divorced)
This is followed by varnishing, according to the same principle.
- varnish only on the repair area
- the second layer is slightly expanded and the viscosity of the varnish is specified (it must be applied smoothly and without shagreen)
- the third layer of varnish is even more liquid - up to the planned border of the new varnish
- after 5 minutes, dilute the varnish even more and apply it to the border of the last drops of varnish that have fallen on the part.


You need accuracy and exposure as usual between all layers for at least 10-15 minutes.
How to dilute on a new layer, for example, varnish.
After painting the layer, add a little solvent directly into the glass of the spray gun and release the remains of the varnish “with the old” viscosity into the air from the spray gun.
In this case, I used the usual Mobichel varnish (I generally like it for its predictability and unpretentiousness) and the usual solvent 650 in varnish.
The video does not say that the base should practically not get into the place where the adhesive tape is located. And the varnish should get close to the adhesive tape only on the last layer.

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Video added later. The old masters did not know the solvent for transitions

Today I want to touch on the topic of coloring with a color transition. I'll explain right away. That this method is used in those moments when it is impossible to paint over the damaged area on the car without highlighting this area. There are several prerequisites for transition painting:

• Over time, the paint fades and therefore freshly painted areas will undoubtedly stand out from the overall picture.
• If there is a discrepancy between the original paint and the grit of the mixture used during the repair
• Frequent mistakes during the selection of paintwork materials

Necessary set for painting work

In addition to looking at the transitional solvent, we will talk about possible solvent poisoning and first aid options.

Is it possible to paint with your own hands at home?

Yes, you certainly may. The main thing for carrying out independent processes is to adhere to the technology and prepare the necessary tool for this. Required material to use is a ready-made transition thinner, it will provide a correct and accurate transition from the original paint to the new coating.

Having decided to carry out repair work on your own, stock up on the following list of tools:

1. Paint gun
2. Anti-silicone and sandpaper
3. Primer
4. watering cans
5. Antistatic wipes

A separate place is occupied by such material as a solvent for transitions. This material can be purchased for base paint and for varnish, it is applied to the finished surface. If you want to use a thinner for the base, then the direct application of the base paint must be done on a wet pre-applied thinner. The fade thinner is slow drying and the paint particles that sink into it create the effect of the desired fade. In the case of using varnish, the technology does not differ from the basic application of paint. First of all, a solvent is applied, after which a varnish is applied very quickly on it. Acrylic enamels are often used as varnish.

Important! It must be remembered that the application of the solvent must not be carried out on the entire area, but only on the boundary between the new paint and the old one.

When doing the work yourself, you can make some mistakes. They consist in using too much solvent, which leads to the formation of smudges and discoloration of the paint.

Since some skills and knowledge are still needed to work on coloring the transition, you should decide in advance in which particular package you will purchase the transition thinner. Of course, for a beginner, it is better to choose aerosol cans that do not require dilution. Also, this option is very convenient for use on small parts or in small areas.

Important! One of the advantages of using an aerosol is its economy. After all, after the work, you do not have to pour out the rest of the unused mixture.

The solvent for acrylic is selected based on your wishes. In this matter, it is important to use not water as a solvent, but branded materials. They allow you to change the characteristics of the coloring matter, in some cases, the painted surface after that can be either glossy or matte. One of the most popular today is the universal solvent acrylic thinner. The amount of material used will affect transparency and color saturation. Transition thinner should be stored in well-ventilated areas that are not accessible to the public. In this case, the room should be dark, and the location of the solvent should be vertical. Of the most popular solvents, I singled out Relocryl Acryl for myself - it is used to dilute acrylic-based varnishes, primers and paints.

Solvent Hazards

The health hazards that solvents can bring are significant. They affect the skin, internal and respiratory organs, and are also absorbed into the blood. Most of all from the harmful effects of the solution suffers nervous system, kidneys and lungs.

Another undoubted danger is easy ignition of the material. During combustion, toxic gases are released and if they accumulate, they become explosive. Solvent poisoning can cause some symptoms:

• Solvent vapors irritate the nasal mucosa, cause coughing and tearing
• If a certain amount of material enters the body, then diarrhea, vomiting with blood, and also acute pain in the abdomen may occur.
• Weakness along with dizziness and headache
• Convulsions and even coma
• Possible fainting and loss of coordination

In case of severe poisoning, within two days they begin to develop serious illness kidneys and liver. This provokes the appearance of obstructive jaundice, as well as painful urination.

Important! If the poisoning occurred with carbon tetrachloride vapor, then this causes severe damage to the nervous and cardiovascular systems. In this case, death can occur within three days.

Coloring with a transition

First aid for poisoning should be lightning fast. Therefore, only after noticing signs of poisoning, take the victim to open fresh air, thereby ensuring good access to oxygen. If the solvent is ingested, you should immediately vomit, then rinse the stomach. Such actions are not performed when oil products enter. All skin should be washed with warm water and soapy water.

To reduce the absorption of toxins, you need to drink sweet and strong tea. Never drink milk or vegetable oil, since these liquids only improve the absorption process. In any case, in case of poisoning, you should consult a doctor who will monitor the change in your condition. If the victim has convulsions or is in a state of some intoxication, then it is urgent to call ambulance! If the material gets inside, it can have terrible consequences, since even a small dose of 20-30 ml can be fatal to humans.

Mild cases of poisoning pass on average within a couple of days, while you should monitor the change in your condition and, in which case, immediately seek help from doctors. In order to prevent negative impact, safety measures should be observed while working with the material. Do not forget about the necessary good ventilation of the room, as well as the protection of respiratory organs and hands. One of important points is the use of non-highly toxic materials in the domestic environment.

Any motorist at least once found on his car a small scratch, abrasion or a small dent that spoils the mood. Don't be so quick to get upset. All this can be perfectly eliminated with the help of local . In this case, you need a binder.

What is a car paint binder?

Binder is a colorless substance that is a binder and is part of the base (metallic nitro paint). The use of a binder helps in local painting of a car: it allows you to save paint and varnish materials, minimize repair time, and most importantly, it will not require serious financial costs.

The technology that uses the binder is based on the transition method, which makes it possible to make the place that was covered with paint invisible. With proper local painting with the participation of a binder, the boundary between the old and new coatings becomes invisible.

In what cases does it apply

Binder is used for partial painting of a car body in several cases:

• upon detection of minor damage and deformation: scratches, chips, abrasions, and so on;
• when changing the color of any part of the car;
• if the car had a sticker on it for a long time and you decided to remove it; in this case, the place under the sticker will be shiny and new, while the color of the whole car will be more faded.

Binder is used only for coating with metallic paints.

Features of using a binder

Before starting work on local painting, the site should be prepared. You should know the features of the preparation of the part:

• only the damaged part of the car part is repaired, the rest remains intact;
• before applying the paint, the area is matted with gray scotch-brite and matting paste.

Binder technology for painting cars

The technology of painting the damaged area can be carried out in two ways:

1. Spraying on the binder and then varnishing the entire piece.
2. Binder application by spraying and varnishing with a transition.

The binder is applied after preliminary preparation of the part: the area must be cleaned, puttied, primed, and then treated with a matting paste and the entire part must be degreased. The layer lays down evenly, without changing the color of the part, gradually filling all the cracks and abrasives. After applying the binder, a perfectly smooth foundation is formed, on which grains of metallic will lie evenly. Then paint is applied in 2 stages:

1. First, a stain of soil is extinguished, and the paint does not stretch beyond the boundaries.
2. Next, you should slightly shade the stain, slightly going beyond the edges, thereby smoothing out the visual transition from new staining to old paint body.

After spraying the base, the transition becomes almost imperceptible. The paint must be drained into a container, and a binder should be poured into the spray gun tank. They need to cover the whole detail. When the paint dries, varnish should be applied. This procedure is carried out in several stages:

1. Part of the varnish is thoroughly mixed with the activator and applied only to the previously damaged area.
2. After drying, a second layer is applied with a transition beyond the edges of the site.
3. The varnish is mixed with a thinner (in a ratio of 50 to 50) to obtain a thinner layer, then applied to the area with an even wider transition beyond it.
4. The last step is polishing the varnish.

The essence of the technology of painting with the use of a binder is to go a little more beyond the boundaries of the repaired area with each layer.

Thus, with proper use, the binder will help make the painted area of ​​the part indistinguishable from the entire surface of the car body.

How to pay for GASOLINE TWICE LESS

• Gasoline prices are rising every day, and the appetite of the car is only increasing.
• You would be happy to cut costs, but is it possible to do without a car in our time!?