What do you need to solder. How to solder metal parts

How to solder a wire. Soldering materials. How to solder steel wire with tin

How to solder steel parts

What steel is soldered well

The question is that it is impossible for a home master to determine the brand by eye. To find out how well a given part is soldered from steel, or an alloy close to it, can only be experimentally.

How tin connection is made - procedure

cleaning of steel, chemical cleaning under solder;
heating the part to the melting temperature of the solder, finding the solder on the part under the flux for some time in a fluid state.

The most harmless to use, but effective in this case, is phosphoric acid, which is easy to purchase at an auto shop as “rust cleaning”.

The required power of the heating devices depends entirely on the mass of the parts.

Soldering process of two steel parts

You will also need cotton wool on a stick to supply the flux to the heating zone, and a soldering iron from 50 watts.

Steel cleaned with sandpaper is heated by a burner.
Phosphoric acid is applied to the hot part and molten tin solder is immediately fed with a soldering iron.

The same is repeated with another detail. Then two parts are heated together, and additional solder is supplied to the contact zone with a soldering iron.

How strong is soldering steel, can it be made stronger

bond strength of solder to metal,
connection area,
the direction of the load with respect to the soldered planes.

You can strengthen it by using another solder - special strong compounds and more refractory ones with the inclusion of silver, zinc, copper, etc.

Another way to increase strength is to cover with solder not only the plane, but also the sidewalls of the part, - the coverage of the part with solder. Then the resistance to separation under multidirectional loads will be greater.

High-strength soldering, special solders

Work should be carried out only by specialists in the smelting of metals. It is necessary to know the basics of melting metals, the procedure for handling melts and safety precautions. In general, brazing of steel with heavy-duty solders is carried out at specialized enterprises.

Possible solder composition:

55% zinc, 45% copper, some silicon to improve fluidity.

The composition is melted under a layer of coal in a graphite crucible. The steel parts to be soldered are heated by a gas burner. Orthophosphoric acid is used as a flux. The melt is fed to the parts. As a rule, tinning and soldering are carried out in one heating of both parts and solder. But such soldering of steel surpasses simple welding in complexity ....

But in everyday life, where you need to “patch”, “attach”, “join” two steel parts, you need to use solders with a low melting point, such as lead-tin.

stroy-block.com.ua

the choice of flux and features of working with tin and galvanization

Soldering is the chemical joining of two metals with solder. Moreover, the crystal structure of the metal does not change. That is, the connected parts remain with their technical characteristics.

The connection itself is quite reliable, but much will depend on the type of solder and the soldering technology. In addition, it should be noted that not all metals can be joined by this process. The base metals, especially steel (iron), can be soldered together.

Three Technologies

There are three technologies for soldering iron with tin:

soldering iron. To do this, you will have to use soft solders with a high lead content;
blowtorch. This will require hard solders with a high content of tin;
electric soldering of iron.

The first method is used if the iron will not be subjected to heavy loads during operation. The second is the tinning of iron with tin, when tin solder is applied to the surface of a metal product and rubbed over its entire plane with a thin layer.

In this technology, a soldering flux is necessarily used. The third option is used on a production scale, for which special equipment is used.

Soldering sheet metal

Soldering of tin (thin sheet iron) is a common process in the manufacture of metal containers. But often at home it is necessary to fasten sheets of iron together, assembling hermetic structures. Therefore, before soldering one sheet to another, it is necessary to prepare everything you need.

For the process of soldering iron with tin, you will need solder with a small concentration of tin, for example, POS-40, flux, a soldering iron and an awl.

Flux in the process of soldering iron performs the functions of a solvent and an oxidizing agent at the same time. That is, wetting of the metal and protection from oxidative processes immediately occur. Rosin and hydrochloric acid or zinc chloride and boric acid are used as fluxes.

As for the soldering iron, for high-quality soldering with tin, it is better to choose an electric tool with a power of more than 40 watts. The old soldering tool, which is heated by the flame of a fire, is practically not used today even at home.

Sequencing

Here are the main steps in this process:

stripping connected sheets;
flux application;
soldering iron heating and tinning;
tin soldering;
cleaning the joint with gasoline.

Cleaning is carried out mechanically with sandpaper. If the contamination is large, then it will be necessary to carry out a solvent treatment. If it is not possible to clean it by this method, then etching with sulfuric acid is carried out.

Two pieces of sheet iron are brought to each other at a distance of 0.3 mm. Their edges are treated with a pasty flux with a brush. The tip of the soldering iron is cleaned with sandpaper, and the tool itself is connected to the electrical network through a socket. To check if it has warmed up well, you need to place its sting in the ammonia mixture, which should boil.

Now the stage of tinning of iron is being carried out. That is, with the help of solder from tin or its alloy, the edges of two sheets of tin are processed to cover them with a tin layer, which will perform protective functions against metal corrosion.

Everything is ready, it remains only to solder the two ends of the sheets. The tip of the soldering iron is brought to the joint along with solder from tin, and they both move smoothly along the joint boundary.

In this case, the sting must be pressed not with a sharp end, but with a flat edge, due to which the parts to be joined will also warm up at the same time, which will affect the high quality of the iron soldering.

Features of working with galvanized products

Soldering galvanized with tin technological process no different from the previous one. But there are subtle nuances in the technology that affect the quality of the final result.

It is impossible to solder galvanizing with solders, which include a large amount of antimony. This substance, when in contact with a zinc coating, creates a fragile seam.

As a flux, it is better to use boric acid and zinc chloride. If the products themselves have already been tinned with tin during the production process, then rosin can be used as a flux.

When galvanized iron (sheet) and wire are connected, the latter must be bent at a right angle in order to increase the contact area of the two products.

The rest of the process is carried out in exactly the same way. By the way, it does not matter whether the wire was made of galvanized steel or ordinary steel.

There are several more important positions that must be taken into account in the process of soldering galvanized products. If soldering rods based on tin and lead are used for soldering iron, then it is better to add a flux based on zinc chloride and ammonium chloride for them. The ratio is 5:1 respectively.

Tin-cadmium based solder requires caustic soda as a flux additive.

If galvanized iron products are interconnected, the protective layer of which includes more than 2% aluminum, then solder based on tin and zinc is used. And as a flux, hydrochloric acid and petroleum jelly (stearin) are used.

Regardless of which parts or assemblies are connected by soldering, after the end of the process and the seam has cooled down, rinse the junction with water to remove flux residues.

Safety

Soldering iron with tin is an unsafe process. Therefore, precautions must be strictly observed. Protective gloves are put on the hands, a stand must be installed under the soldering iron so that the heated tip does not touch the table and materials at hand. And the procedure itself must be carried out carefully.

With the seeming simplicity of the soldering operation, in fact, this is a serious procedure. And it must be treated with great care. Something was missed, even applied incorrectly, and we can assume that the quality of the joint has dropped sharply. Therefore, it is important to approach each stage responsibly, especially when it comes to cleaning two joined iron products.

svaring.com

How can you solder steel?

LVital 21-07-2005 14:35

The question is this: there is a great desire to rebarrel a Sheridan 397 on a Walter barrel (4.5mm, choke, 605mm length, F12). To do this, you will have to mill a ditch along the trunk and solder the trunk to the compressor. As far as I remember from the reviews of the owners, in Sheridan the barrel is brass and soldered. Will I be able to solder a steel barrel and what needs to be done for this? What flux, what solder, what soldering iron power is required for this?

Kiryan 21-07-2005 15:12

For steel soldering, more refractory solders are used (most often containing copper and silver), and since the soldering temperature is high and the barrel length is not small, there is every reason to believe that the barrel will "lead away." As an option, soldering the barrel in several places or another option - put barrel on (in) "eight" and solder only eights to the pump (you can also put a plank on them under the optics.)

Youri 21-07-2005 15:57

You can solder with ordinary solder, having previously irradiated the steel with phosphoric acid or, better, with a special flux. Subsequent washing with water is required. It is better to warm up with a small gas burner, and then with a soldering iron.

LVital 21-07-2005 16:12

What is a special flux? Hydrochloric acid, or is an alcohol solution of rosin sufficient?

wellad 21-07-2005 16:30

The most affordable, in my opinion, is a rust converter. Made on the basis of zinc chloride or phosphoric acid. Sold in auto parts stores. Part of the barrel is soldered with obligatory washing with soapy water. Then you heat the barrel and box with a burner and insert it at the same time. Melted solder should appear at the junction. Do not heat too much, otherwise the solder will burn. During warm-up, rosin can help. Good luck.

Skunk 21-07-2005 16:42

Can be soldered with regular zinc chloride. Sold by men in the "economic" market.

guron 21-07-2005 16:58

Active flux is called (less aggressive than orthophosphoric, I sometimes don’t wash after it, when there is no time, I won’t say by composition) IMHO orthophosphoric is more effective. Another question torments me - what for are you going to solder it? As I imagined how you would heat up a 12 mm "crowbar" to 200-300 degrees, I was already sick of not being better off. Although I don’t know how it is arranged on the benjiks, we can on it (everything is holding on to the barrel) By the way, here they advised you to solder with silver - what the hell are they - zae. less than 100 degrees) to irradiate the "crowbar" - you heat glycerin on an electric stove (up to 100 degrees) and melt the "rose" in it - so it will not come into contact with oxygen, smear the "crowbar" with phosphoric acid in this container. I also irradiate the benjik, then you combine it all and solder it with a hairdryer and a soldering iron. Everything that I wrote on the benjik was not checked, I only saw it in the pictures, I just share my experience of soldering one large piece of iron to another, without using high power.

Youri 21-07-2005 17:41quote:Originally posted by LVital:What is a special flux? Hydrochloric acid, or is an alcohol solution of rosin sufficient?

we sell fluxes in radio stores, different Mitinofluxes - on orthophosphoric and hydrochloric acids require the most thorough water washing; there are several types of fluxes that do not require washing; for aluminum-nichrome and stainless steel; for steel without washing; I will send you

guron 21-07-2005 19:10

By the way, they have TU, maybe in Ukraine there are such ones. They really cost a penny. I traded 5 liters of LTI-120 + half a liter of orthophosphoric, oxalic, and a liter of active flux for half a liter of alcohol. And I dragged bulk reagents home for free

guron 21-07-2005 19:23

I also remembered that a stainless steel is soldered to aluminum with a special paste on the floor below, though at a high temperature

Alter 21-07-2005 20:35

A guy taught me how to solder. On other products, he did so. I cleaned the part to a roughness of about 6.3, degreased it. Same thing with the other part. Then he heated the wallpaper on the home gas stove, but not to red heat)). Approximately 200-250 degrees. And in your case, you need to hold it longer - the thicknesses are large. I took soldering acid (necessarily with zinc) and * hot * dripped onto the surface. You need a soldering iron with a power of more than 100W, well, this one is also possible. I tinned both parts so that it sparkled. But the temperature must be kept! He let it cool down a little, then he heated it again on gas so that the tin would flow slightly and quickly connect, then he warmed it up a little again, then you’ll tear it off. But be aware. if you shoot in winter, then troubles are possible (tin plague). In general, soldering the barrel is not good. You need to make a slip fit and plant it tightly on two crackers. In which case you can *replay*))

SlepoySn 21-07-2005 20:52

Solder the brass.

Youri 2005-07-21 21:42quote:Originally posted by SlepoySn:Solder the brass.

That's for sure!

KVK 21-07-2005 22:17

Will he not lead?

SLAYER 22-07-2005 12:47

More how to lead.

Solder only with soft solder. You can tin with phosphoric or hydrochloric acid, even without zinc, twist it with wire and heat it to the melting point of the solder, and smear it with flux. The solder will spread neatly over the tinned places and solder everything beautifully.

I can also give solder with a melting point of 90c, if, otherwise I don’t have the usual POSP. And acid, phosphoric and hydrochloric and flux ladies. Drink to health.

Kainyn 22-07-2005 01:06

with such a question, you need to go to the smoothbore.

and they will tell you that they have been learning to solder trunks by hand for years.

can, really, mechanically how to fix?

or the question is in maintaining the external similarity?

wellad 22-07-2005 01:08

When soldering with brass, it is necessary to heat it red-hot. With such a volume of metal, you will have to take a blowtorch or an acetylene torch. Of course, you can solder, but where will the trunk look. Alloy Rosé rocks.

SHURUP 22-07-2005 01:15

LVital. Soft solders (tin-lead, Wood, Rose) cannot provide acceptable mechanical strength, they can only be sealed. On a hot summer day in the sun, splashes of Rose or Wood's alloy will also splash into the eyes. There are as many recipes for hard solders - millions and fluxes. And if you have never held a gas burner in your hands, take pity on the ventilation. Find a specialist, not the one who cuts scrap metal, but who has an idea about PSr. Reading tips on the forum and soldering is very dangerous for the device.

SLAYER 22-07-2005 01:50

Vital, and the moderator that I soldered the pistol to the barrel with an alloy with 90C melting on the Sheridan is still holding on? I didn’t have another then. And here’s how Errrero solders the trunks with POS-40 tin-lead solder, this is about 230C, 40% tin.

http://guns.allzip.org/topic/2/67985.html

blacksmith 22-07-2005 03:46

Steel is perfectly soldered with aspirin (acetylsalicylic acid), any, damn it, solder. IMHO

IV 22-07-2005 08:00

It seems to me that if soldering, then with low-temperature solder, otherwise it can lead. But. Why no one remembers glues. Modern adhesives can be glued so that you can’t peel it off. There was a topic somewhere, they glued a cocking hook onto a gas spring, and you yourself know the effort there. It makes sense to look in this direction. No heating. You can’t buy good glue on the market, you need to look for specialized companies, and consult there. Requirements - strength and lack of shrinkage.

alhimik 22-07-2005 10:09

solder with brass solder. Or zinc - they are stronger, although they melt at more high temperatures ah. Flux: zinc chloride, hydrochloric acid.

guron 22-07-2005 10:39quote:Originally posted by SHURUP:On a hot summer day in the sun, splashes of Rose or Wood's alloy will also splash into the eyes Well, this is not necessary. Here the heat sink is of a decent size, and even with a soldering iron this soldering cannot be immediately warmed up.

Kiryan 22-07-2005 12:47

I wonder how you will heat 600 mm. barrel at home ?? There is a very high probability that it will be taken away. You definitely won’t heat up on the gas burner - I tried it myself (not a swag, but not a smaller piece of iron) IMHO the most steering option is three eights, one full-fledged 8 and two trimmed. The one that is 8 at the end of the pump cylinder, also strengthens the attachment point of the pump handle, and two on 1/3 and 2/3 of the barrel, you also put a bar under the OP on them. Spot heating in region 8 will not lead anything or anywhere.

LVital 22-07-2005 13:27

Thanks everyone for the great ideas. Sit and choose to health

2 SHURUP: large parts, especially steel, I have never soldered. Wiring-transistors-microcircuits - it was the case. 2 SLAYER: holding on, thanks for the offer. Warm the barrel with a heating element - and this is an idea. 2 Kiryan: thanks, it's bad that the view will change. 2 blacksmith: I'll definitely practice with aspirin. 2 alhimik: soldering steel to brass with brass, it's already welding, and I think it's simply unrealistic for me.

2 IV: this seems to be IT. No one will lead anywhere, and there is no need to heat.

LaMuD 22-07-2005 13:35

Soldered with Rose alloy and phosphoric acid on an electric stove. Holds well, but it will turn out beautifully to solder horseradish. You don’t need to spoil a beautiful rifle, but it’s better if your hands are completely itchy, then either glue or mold a couple of clamps from fast steel or epoxy with a plasticizer (epoxy with laser toner is a very durable and not fragile material). You can even make collapsible ones. you can lay a film and then drill holes and cut threads.

Why is Ben so bad?

beginner 2005-07-22 13:43quote:Originally posted by LaMuD:Why is there such a bad trunk in Ben?

join the question

LVital 22-07-2005 15:34

Not so completely bad. - it is brass, and my brush is brass, but I hate cleaning with fishing line and rags - I don’t like rifling at the exit. Some rough. If possible, I'll post a photo. - than to be pissed off with a moderator on your own trunk, it's better to be pissed off with a new trunk IMHO, fuss the same way. - I have a LW 605mm barrel with a diameter of 12mm. If it were not for him, there would be no questions

SWD 22-07-2005 15:46

Change the brush to kapron - polish the barrel

How about a brass tube / rings / half rings for a new barrel? Solder brass, insert iron ..

beginner 22-07-2005 15:51

By the way, Demyan seems to have made a strangler on Benjik.

and just to give advice to the person who was going to mill the Walter shaft - this is ... I don’t even know what to compare it with. Well, as with a child, it’s like doing some kind of bad operation ... Maybe I have such an attitude towards the trunk, because I’m in the MSC, with our ZOO troubles? Don't know...

beginner 22-07-2005 18:42quote:Originally posted by LVital:

What can happen to him? Or should the phrase "Walther's trunk" be aspirated?

yeah. maybe it's worth trying to build something "more different" with this barrel? PSP there with a paintball can?

PS. all IMHO.

OVM 22-07-2005 19:55

Hmm ... You, gentlemen, excuse me, but a person wants to solder the barrel in Benjik, the problem is something! The native was soldered, did it lead? FIG! The steel is perfectly soldered, it is enough to first separately irradiate the barrel (after stripping and degreasing) with zinc chloride, and the soldering iron for the barrel needs 100 watts, a small one is better gas-burner, by the way, these are sold, for an ordinary cylinder for lighters, in Moscow a cylinder costs ~ 80 rubles, a burner 800 rubles. Next - strength, yes perishing! Ordinary tin-lead solder - for the eyes! Brass soldering - nafig, nafig - is useless. The barrel will not lead !!! Guys, the barrel diameter is 12 mm! It will be connected to the pump pipe, temperature ~ 260C, what kind of leash ?! And why doesn’t the native barrel lead when soldering? Say the same materials? But the cross section is different .... and the expansion of steel and brass is not very different.

Solder! Ordinary low-melting solder, it will be fine!

In general, for one normal advice (not mine -!) 10 pieces, like "I hear a ringing, but I don't know where it is ..." (I didn't want to offend anyone)

Regards, Oleg

LVital 22-07-2005 20:00

Sorry, I deleted my message myself for lack of political correctness, but you managed to see and answer

I don't see a problem with a 2mm deep round cutter on a 12mm diameter barrel. In the sense that I don’t think that something will deteriorate at the barrel from this procedure. Surely you will need to order from a competent milling machine to make a mandrel and all that. Also, I don't see where such a thin barrel, in fact, a liner, can fit. You can’t hang it to its full length - it will sow. There is one beautiful bullpup-type idea, but the technical knowledge is not enough to draw up competent drawings, so that project is still on the back burner.

And for future projects (in 20 years) I still have two 4.5 mm barrels from the same haute couture with an outer diameter of 16 mm. So I can’t talk about Walter with a breath. And this is good

beginner 25-07-2005 10:35

Well then - I can only congratulate.

green_day 27-07-2005 23:40

By the way, a hunting smoothbore is not in vain called "brazed pipes"

Ivanych 01-08-2005 09:49

Soldering flux is sold on the Moscow market for soldering copper pipes, it perfectly solders steel, copper, stainless steel, and in combinations. It is a jar of gray paste. You can, in principle, solder with one flux, because. contains zinc powder. It is necessary to clean the place of soldering. As for the lead, never when cooling down, soft solder is very plastic and will play under steel without problems. By the way, why is it necessary to mill the barrel, and not the answer?

LVital 01-08-2005 12:19

Because the answer is a brass pipe with a diameter of about 25mm and a wall thickness of about 1mm.

Ivanych 01-08-2005 22:27

Then it is better to drill 2 holes in the prism along the barrel and pipe and cut into several parts so that the centering does not go away, and then solder.

LVital 02-08-2005 12:00

Wait, what holes and whom to cut?! The pipe is a pump, it cannot be cut.

Ivanych 02-08-2005 18:46

Take a piece of metal 120-150mm long, 30-32mm thick, drill 2 parallel holes in it, one for the pipe, the second for the barrel, i.e. 25mm and 16mm will get the receiver. If it is not needed, you can cut it into pieces, you will get brackets. They will have a clear alignment. The 16mm barrel is easy to hang and gives a great pile. Why solder it is a misunderstanding

2dogs 10-08-2005 11:37

I myself did not check the truth, but I quote.

6. Cold soldering.

Some items, as you know, cannot be soldered at high temperatures without being damaged. For such items, the following composition is recommended. Powdered copper is mixed in a porcelain mortar with concentrated sulfuric acid until a non-cool pasty mass is obtained, to the total weight of which 70 parts of mercury are added gradually, with constant stirring. When a homogeneous amalgam is obtained in this way, it is washed well in hot water to remove the acid and then allowed to cool. After 10-12 hours, the amalgam becomes so hard that it cuts tin. In this form, the composition is already quite ready for use, for which it is heated to the consistency of softened wax and objects are soldered; after cooling, this amalgam holds the soldered parts very tightly.

guns.allzip.org

Soldering of metals

Welding and soldering of metals are one-piece connections. However, these methods have an important difference. During welding, metals are joined due to local heating of the part to a temperature when it begins to melt. The result is a combination of two parts into one. Soldering operation involves obtaining a strong connection of different parts or structures.

Existing Soldering Methods

Soldering technology is classified according to several indicators:

temperature;
pressure;
solder.

The temperature indicator depends on the heating of the metal. In this case, soldering happens:

high temperature;
low temperature.

The temperature indicator separates these two methods. The separation boundary is considered to be 450 degrees.

There is also a definition of soldering depending on the applied pressure:

soldering metal using a fixed gap;
press soldering.

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How to solder tungsten: features

Tungsten products have high strength, which makes it possible to use them in certain industries:

rocket science;
electric lamp industry;
radio engineering.

Tungsten may be pure or incorporated into an alloy. This non-ferrous metal is very fragile and is characterized by infusibility, so its processing causes many difficulties. In this regard, tungsten soldering requires a peculiar approach.

The soldering operation is done at a temperature that is lower than the recrystallization temperature of the material. Usually it is equal to 1450 degrees. If the temperature is much higher, then the strength of the metal begins to decrease. It is much easier to solder tungsten products with parts made of the same material. Soldering with different materials is always very difficult, as the materials have different linear expansion parameters.

Before starting soldering work, the surface of the tungsten parts is thoroughly cleaned. It is done in several ways:

mechanical cleaning;
etching in acid, using nitric or hydrofluoric acid.

If acid is not available, strongly heated sodium hydroxide replaces it. After cleaning, tungsten is wiped with alcohol, you can wash it hot water.

To achieve perfect cleanliness and high density of the seam, soldering work must be carried out in a vacuum. There are also several other reducing media, however, they require pre-plating the metal with nickel. This results in high wetting of the tungsten by the flowing solder.

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At home, the soldering of radio engineering parts is the most common. The operation does not cause any difficulties, it can be performed by almost anyone. The soldering can always be easily dismantled, it is water resistant.

To negative side can be attributed to low strength. Not compatible with other metals. Soldering does not tolerate cold and heat.

To perform soldering work, it is necessary to have solder made of light fusible metal.

Solder is made from combinations of lead and tin. Due to the presence of a particular material, solders can have different melting points. It is this circumstance that predetermines the main scope of their work. Most often, solder is used, in which the melting point reaches 200 degrees.

At home, soldering work must be carried out very quickly.

The fact is that the flux, which ensures the fluidity of the solder, begins to char quickly. Sometimes additional cleaning is required. Until the solder has completely cooled down and becomes solid, it is forbidden to move the parts.

The level of soldering is recognized as high-quality, when the solder envelops the place of soldering with the thinnest layer.

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How to solder steel: the nuances

In order to start soldering steel, you need to choose the appropriate method. This takes into account:

resistance of the oxide film;
interaction of steel and solder;
change in the characteristics of steel, after the thermal process of soldering.

Oxides are very easily removed when carbon steel is brazed. It is much more difficult to remove the oxide film when working with alloy steel, which includes chromium, aluminum, titanium and silicon.

The fact is that after heating, hardly soluble oxides Me2O3, M2O3 appear on the surface of the steel.

To solder steel, use solders, which include:

tin;
lead;
silver;
copper;
nickel;
palladium.

These materials have little effect on the properties of steel, they practically do not dissolve it.

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How to solder parts from tin?

The standard way to solder tin is to use solder, which contains a large amount of tin, flux and a soldering iron with an awl.

Professionals advise using the following brands of solder:

POS 40;
POS 30;
POS 4-6.

This choice of solder is related to the chemical properties of the materials when soldering with tin. These solders, in addition to tin, also contain:

antimony;
arsenic;
copper;
bismuth.

These grades of solders differ in shear resistance due to a certain amount of impurities. In addition, they increase the tensile strength of the seam after soldering is completed. If there is not enough tin in the composition of the solder, then the amount of antimony increases.

In some cases, POS 90 with a large amount of lead is used. For galvanized material, a slightly different approach is taken.

Flux must be present for soldering galvanized iron. It plays the role of a chemical oxidizing agent and at the same time a solvent. Thanks to the flux, the oxidation process disappears. On top of that, the metal is wetted with iron, and a high quality seam is obtained. Most often, hydrochloric acid and rosin are used as a flux.

In radio engineering, rosin is most often used. Only in some cases, zinc chloride and boric acid are used.

For work, use a soldering iron, the power of which should exceed 40 watts. All work is preferably done with an electric soldering iron. It allows you to solder in a comfortable position, the seam is very strong and reliable.

Many breakdowns can be repaired independently ,To do this, it is enough to arm yourself with a soldering iron. With minimal skills, you can solder broken wires and details and thus restore the functionality of the device. Often the question arises how to learn solder? On the actually it's not so much and difficult, the main thing is to fill your hand. With a little experience, you can carry out home repairs of almost any device, where the essence of the breakdown is torn off and detached parts.

What does it take to learn how to solder?

To solder something, you first need to prepare workplace. It should be located directly on the part, as well as the place where you will put the tool. Consider the fact that the soldering iron heats up to high temperatures, so it should not be placed on plastic or other flammable objects. The best solution would be to use a metal or ceramic stand.

It is also worth taking care in advance of those tools that may be needed during the work. These can be pliers for holding large objects or tweezers for fixing small parts.

Additionally, you need to have a damp sponge on hand, with its help, the remnants of the old solder on the sting are removed.

If all of the above are more recommendations than mandatory items, then Soldering always requires three elements:

the soldering iron itself is a tool whose tip is heated to high temperatures and is able to melt the solder;
solder - a metal or alloy that melts at relatively low temperatures and is able to conduct current (most often it is tin);
Flux is a substance that has degreasing and anti-oxidation properties.

The principle of soldering is extremely simple and unchanged for many years.

There is a simple diagram of how to solder correctly:

1. Cleaning parts from old solder. This item can be omitted when repairing modern (mostly Chinese) devices - they have so little solder that in the event of a breakdown, the place remains almost clean.

2. Degreasing the tip and parts. For this, either liquid flux or rosin is used. This must be done in order for the tin to attach to objects. First, the parts and the soldering iron itself are processed with flux, after which they are evenly covered with solder. This process is also called tinning.

3. Melt the tin and draw the right amount on the sting. This moment requires some skill. Most beginners fail to take required amount solder, from which the parts either do not solder at all, or the work done does not look neat.

4. While holding the parts to be soldered together, transfer the solder to the joint. At this stage, it is important to keep objects clearly. If your hand trembles, the parts will come apart and the procedure will have to start over. It is important to hold the parts until the solder hardens.

Rosin is considered a classic substance used in soldering. The whole principle of operation remains the same, the main differences are noticeable only at the stage of degreasing.

The peculiarity of rosin is that it is a hard resin. Most often it is in a small metal jar with a sealed lid.

Despite the variety of modern liquid solders, rosin is still a popular material. Many radio amateurs are sure that only with its help it is possible to produce high-quality and fast soldering.

The peculiarity of how to properly solder with rosin is that it is necessary to press the tip and wires to the resin itself. After that, solder is applied. The purpose of the steps is to achieve uniform coverage of the part with solder.

With this choice of flux, one point should be taken into account. Rosin is not compatible with all metals, so for complex soldering it is worth choosing a different flux that suits all parts.

How to solder wires with a soldering iron? Work specifics

The soldering technique is slightly different depending on what exactly you are working with. Working with various parts and schemes has its own specifics due to the size and features of the fastening.

Separately distinguish the process of soldering wires. It is slightly different from the process of attaching conventional parts. In this work, there is a certain inconvenience - the wires are flexible and movable, so they must be tightly fixed when soldering.

Here's how to solder the wires:

1. Strip the wire. The size of the cleared space should correspond to the place of soldering. If you expose too little of the rein, it will interfere with work, and if you expose too much, a short circuit is possible.

2. If the selected wire is stranded, it must be tightly twisted so that all the strands are adjacent to each other. If this is not done, some of them may not attach. In this case, not only the quality of the connection will deteriorate, but the risk of a break will also increase.

3. First, the soldering iron is tinned, then the wire itself. When using rosin, it is convenient to do this by dipping into the resin and heating it with a sting. It is necessary to achieve an even coverage.

4. The wire is attached to the site by applying solder and fixing until it solidifies.

Also, using a soldering iron, you can connect the wires together. Before directly soldering, the wires are stripped and twisted together. Only after this is tinning and soldering performed (hard rosin is most often used, but liquid solder can also be applied with a brush).

It doesn't really matter which wires you use: whether copper or aluminum are easy to solder.

There are several simple methods on how to learn how to produce such work in a quality manner. The classic and most effective option is to use wire. Twelve identical segments are cut from it, after which a cube is formed by soldering. The design is tested for strength by compressing the cube in a fist. If not a single edge fell apart , job done right. Otherwise, a new set of wires is cut and the model is re-soldered.

Features of how to solder chips

The specificity of the microcircuit is in the small size of the parts, as well as the high probability of their overheating. It is very important to remove the device quickly. If necessary, a heat sink is used - tweezers or another metal object can act as its role.

For such work, it is worth choosing a soldering iron with a small sting, since there is a very small distance between the parts. There are several soldering methods. Some craftsmen prefer to make recesses in the tip of the soldering iron, others connect using a special solder paste, and still others methodically solder the leads one by one.

To understand how to properly solder a particular part, you need to determine what temperature you need to influence. Much depends on the material from which the board is made. Most often it is 200-300 degrees Celsius.

How to solder boards depends largely on their design. More simple circuits they are easily connected by alternately soldering wires, but complex modern chips require special care - after all, by soldering the next part, you can easily eliminate the previous one.

How to solder with an acid soldering iron? Features of work

Some craftsmen are sure that using acid is much easier and more reliable than soldering with rosin. However, the use of such a substance can lead to corrosion of the installation.

The use of soldering acid plays a big role when it is necessary to remove the oxide film from surfaces, which leads to a better and stronger connection.

Such a material is suitable for processing the connection of cast iron parts, as well as all kinds of precious and ferrous metals.

The main prescription for how to properly solder with such a flux is compliance with safety regulations. The selected type of acid should clearly correspond to what material you will be connecting.

It is also worth taking care of the safety of surrounding objects - a drop of flux can corrode some objects, as it is an aggressive chemical.

Such a flux can be made with your own hands or purchased at the store. For beginners, the second option is preferable, since the composition will not only be uniquely effective, but also, of course, suitable for your details. In this case, you can always seek help from a consultant and clarify the correctness of the choice.

Soldering with a soldering iron is one of the most common and simple ways soldering, however, it has two significant limitations. Firstly, a soldering iron can only be soldered with low-melting (soft) solders, and secondly, they cannot (or, in any case, it is difficult) to solder massive parts with a large heat sink - due to the impossibility of heating them to the melting temperature of the solder. The latter limitation is overcome by heating the part to be soldered with an external heat source - a gas burner, an electric or gas stove, or in some other way - but this complicates the soldering process.

Before you solder with a soldering iron, you need to get everything you need. The main tools and materials without which soldering is impossible include the soldering iron itself, solder and flux.

Soldering irons

Depending on the method of heating, soldering irons are "normal" - electric (with a spiral or ceramic heater), gas (with a gas burner), hot air (heat is transferred by air flow), induction. Massive hammer soldering irons can be heated not only with electricity, but also in the old fashioned way - with an open flame.

How to use such a soldering iron, you can learn from the descriptions of the technology of tin work, it was there that they were used most often. Nowadays, electric soldering irons are usually used due to their availability and ease of use. But the first soldering irons were heated by an open flame.

The main parameter by which a soldering iron is selected is its power, which determines the amount of heat flow transmitted to the soldered parts. For soldering electronic components, devices with a power of up to 40 W are used. Thin-walled parts (with a wall thickness of up to 1 mm) require a power of 80-100 watts.

For parts with a wall thickness of 2 mm or more, you will need soldering irons with a power higher than 100 watts. These are, in particular, hammer electric soldering irons that consume up to 250 W and more. The most energy-intensive soldering irons include, for example, the Ersa Hammer 550 hammer soldering iron with a power of 550 W. It is capable of heating up to a temperature of 600°C and is designed for soldering particularly massive parts - radiators, machine parts. But he has an inadequate price.

In addition to the massiveness of the part, the thermal conductivity of the soldered metal also affects the required power of the soldering iron. With its increase, the power of the device and the temperature of its heating must be increased. When soldering copper parts with a soldering iron, it must be heated more strongly than when soldering a part of the same mass, but made of steel. By the way, when working with copper products, a situation may arise when, due to the high thermal conductivity of the metal, during soldering, desoldering of places made earlier will occur.

Solders

When soldering with electric soldering irons, low-temperature tin-lead (POS-30, POS-40, POS-61), tin-silver (PSr-2, PSr-2.5) or other solders and pure tin are used. The disadvantages of solders containing lead include the harmfulness of the latter, the advantages - best quality soldering than lead-free solders. for soldering food utensils pure tin is used.

Fluxes

It is generally accepted that tin, silver, gold, copper, brass, bronze, lead, nickel silver are well soldered. Satisfactory - carbon and low alloy steels, nickel, zinc. Poor - aluminum, high-alloy and stainless steels, aluminum bronze, cast iron, chromium, titanium, magnesium. However, without disputing these data, it can be argued that there is no poorly soldered metal, there is poor preparation of the part, incorrectly selected flux and incorrect temperature conditions.

Choosing the right flux for soldering means solving the main soldering problem. It is the quality of the flux that determines, first of all, the solderability of a particular metal, the ease or difficulty of the soldering process itself, and the strength of the joint. The flux must correspond to the material of the soldered products - its ability to destroy its oxide film.

Acidic (active) fluxes, such as "Soldering Acid" based on zinc chloride, cannot be used when soldering electronic components, as they conduct well electricity and cause corrosion, however, due to their aggressiveness, they prepare the surface very well and therefore are indispensable for soldering metal structures, and the more chemically resistant the metal, the more active the flux should be. Residues of active fluxes must be carefully removed after soldering is completed.

Effective fluxes for soldering steel are an aqueous solution of zinc chloride, soldering acids based on it, flux LTI-120. You can use other, stronger fluxes, which abound on the market.

The main difference between soldering stainless steels and soldering carbon and low-alloy steels is the need to use more active fluxes, which are required to destroy the chemically resistant oxides with which stainless steels are coated. As for cast iron, it must be soldered with high-temperature soldering, and, therefore, an electric soldering iron is not suitable for this purpose.

For stainless steel, phosphoric acid is used. Well cope with a chemically resistant oxide film and specialized fluxes, such as, for example, F-38.

For galvanized iron, you can use a composition containing rosin, ethyl alcohol, zinc chloride and ammonium chloride (flux LK-2).

Auxiliary materials and devices

You can do without some devices and materials used for soldering, but their presence makes the work much more convenient and comfortable.

Soldering iron stand serves to ensure that the heated soldering iron does not touch the table or other objects. If it does not come with a soldering iron, it is purchased separately or made independently. The simplest stand can be made from a thin sheet of tin by cutting grooves in it for laying the tool.

Wet rayon or foam sponge, placed in a nest to prevent falling out, it is much more convenient to clean the tip of the soldering iron than with a regular cloth. Brass shavings can also serve for the same purposes.

You can remove excess solder from the surface of the parts using special suction or braids. The first appearance and the design resembles a syringe equipped with a spring. Before use, it must be cocked by drowning the stem head. Bringing the spout to the molten solder, the spring is lowered by pressing the release button. As a result, excess solder is drawn into the removable head.

It is a braid of fluxed thin copper wires. By attaching its end to the solder and pressing it on top with a soldering iron, thanks to capillary forces, you can collect all the excess solder in it like a blotter. The tip of the braid, saturated with solder, is simply cut off.

A very useful device is called third hand(Third-Hand Tool). When working with a soldering iron, sometimes there are catastrophically "not enough hands" - one is busy with the soldering iron itself, the other with solder, but you still need to keep the parts to be soldered in a certain position. The "third hand" is convenient in that its clamps can be easily installed in any position relative to each other.

Solder holder "Third hand"

The soldered parts are heated to a high temperature, touching them can cause burns. Therefore, it is desirable to have various clamping devices that allow you to manipulate heated parts - pliers, tweezers, clamps.

Preparing the soldering iron for work

The first time you turn on the soldering iron, it may start to smoke. There is nothing wrong with this, the oils used to preserve the soldering iron just burn out. You just need to ventilate the room.

Before using the soldering iron, you need to prepare its tip. Preparation depends on its original form. If the tip is bare copper, the tip can be forged into a screwdriver shape, which will compact the copper and make it more resistant to wear. You can just sharpen it with sandpaper or a file, giving it necessary form- in the form of an acute or truncated cone with a different angle, a tetrahedral pyramid, an angular bevel on one side. Nickel metal coatings are used to protect copper from oxidation. If the soldering iron has such a coating, then it cannot be forged and sharpened in order to avoid damage to the coating layer.

There is a unified range of tip shapes, but you can, of course, use any shape suitable for a particular job.

When soldering massive parts, the area of contact between the soldering iron and the part should be as large as possible to ensure better heat transfer. In this case, the angular sharpening of a round rod is considered the best (2 in the photo above). If you intend to solder small parts, then a sharp cone (4), knife or other forms with small angles will do.

The instructions for working with a soldering iron that has an uncoated copper tip contain one mandatory requirement - tinning the “sting” of a new soldering iron in order to protect it from oxidation and wear. And this should be done at the first heating, without delay. Otherwise, the "sting" will be covered with a thin layer of scale, and the solder will not want to stick to it. This can be done in different ways. Warm up the soldering iron to operating temperature, touch the "sting" to the rosin, melt the solder on it and grind the latter on a piece of wood. Or wipe the heated tip with a rag moistened with a solution of zinc chloride, melt solder on it and rub it over the tip with a piece of ammonia or rock salt. The main thing is that as a result of these operations, the working part of the tip is completely covered with a thin layer of solder.

The need to tin the tip is due to the fact that the flux gradually corrodes, and the solder dissolves the tip. Due to the loss of shape, it is necessary to sharpen the sting regularly, and the more active the flux, the more often, sometimes several times a day. For nickel-plated tips, nickel closes access to copper, protecting it, but such tips require careful handling, they are afraid of overheating, and it’s not a fact that the manufacturer has made a sufficiently high-quality coating for which it requires an overpayment.

Preparation of parts for soldering

Preparing parts for soldering involves performing the same operations, regardless of what type (low-temperature or high-temperature) soldering is performed, and what heating source (electric or gas soldering iron, gas burner, inductor, or something else) is used.

First of all, this is cleaning the part from dirt and degreasing. There are no special subtleties here - you need to clean the part from oils, fats, dirt with the help of solvents (gasoline, acetone or others). If there is rust, it must be removed by any suitable mechanical means - using an emery wheel, wire brush or sandpaper. In the case of high-alloy and stainless steels, it is desirable to grind the joined edges with an abrasive tool, since the oxide film of these metals is especially strong.

Soldering temperature

The heating temperature of the soldering iron is the most important parameter; the quality of the soldering depends on the temperature. Insufficient temperature manifests itself in the fact that the solder does not spread over the surface of the product, but lies in a lump, despite the preparation of the surface with flux. But even if the soldering turned out externally (the solder melted and spread over the joint), the solder joint turns out to be loose, matte in color, and has low mechanical strength.

The soldering temperature (the temperature of the soldered parts) should be 40-80°C higher than the melting temperature of the solder, and the tip heating temperature should be 20-40°C higher than the soldering temperature. The last requirement is due to the fact that in contact with the parts to be soldered, the temperature of the soldering iron will decrease due to heat removal. Thus, the heating temperature of the tip should exceed the melting temperature of the solder by 60-120°C. If used Soldering Station, then the required temperature is simply set by the regulator. When using a soldering iron without temperature control, it is possible to evaluate its actual value, when using rosin as a flux, by the behavior of rosin when the soldering iron is touched. It should boil and release steam profusely, but not burn out instantly, but remain on the tip in the form of boiling drops.

Overheating of the soldering iron is also harmful, it causes the flux to burn and char before it activates the solder surface. Overheating is evidenced by a dark film of oxides that appears on the solder located at the tip of the soldering iron, as well as the fact that it does not stay on the “sting”, flowing from it.

soldering technique

There are two main ways to solder with a soldering iron:

Supply (drain) of solder to soldered parts from the tip of the soldering iron.
Supply of solder directly to the parts to be soldered (to the pad).

With any method, it is necessary to first prepare the parts for soldering, install and fix them in their original position, heat up the soldering iron and moisten the place of the solder with flux. Further steps differ depending on which method is used.

When supplying solder from a soldering iron, a certain amount of solder is melted on it (to be held at the tip) and the "sting" is pressed against the parts to be soldered. In this case, the flux will begin to boil and evaporate, and the molten solder passes from the soldering iron to the junction. By moving the tip along the future seam, the solder is distributed over the joint.

Solder on the jelly may be enough if the tip has just acquired a metallic sheen. If the shape of the tip has changed noticeably, then there is too much solder.

When applying solder directly to the junction, the soldering iron first heats up the parts to the soldering temperature, and then the solder is fed to the part or to the joint between the soldering iron and the part. Melting, the solder will fill the joint between the soldered parts. Choose how to solder with a soldering iron - the first or second way - should be depending on the nature of the work performed. For small parts, the first method is better, for large ones, the second.

The main requirements for high-quality soldering include:

good heating of the soldering iron and soldered parts;
a sufficient amount of flux;
input the right amount solder - exactly as much as required, but no more.

Here are some tips on how to properly solder with a soldering iron.

If the solder does not flow, but smears, then the temperature of the parts has not reached the desired values, you need to increase the heating temperature of the soldering iron or take a more powerful device.

You don't need to add too much solder. High-quality soldering implies the presence of a minimum sufficient amount of material in the joint, at which the seam turns out to be slightly concave. If there is too much solder, you do not need to try to attach it somewhere at the junction, it is better to remove it with suction or a braid.

The quality of the junction is indicated by its color. High quality- the junction has a bright sheen. Insufficient temperature makes the structure of the junction grainy, spongy - this is an unambiguous marriage. Burnt solder looks dull and has reduced strength, which in some cases may be quite acceptable.

When using active (acidic) fluxes, it is imperative to wash off their residues after soldering - with some kind of detergent or ordinary alkaline soap. Otherwise, no guarantee can be given that after some time the connection will not be destroyed by corrosion from the remaining acids.

Tinning

Tinning - covering the metal surface with a thin layer of solder - can be either an independent, final operation, or an intermediate, preparatory stage of soldering. When this is the preparatory stage, successful tinning of the part in most cases means that the hardest part of the soldering job (joining the solder to the metal) is done, and soldering the tinned parts together is usually no longer difficult.

Wire tinning. Tinning the ends of electrical wires is one of the most frequent operations. It is carried out before soldering the wires to the contacts, soldering together or to ensure better contact with the terminals when connecting with bolts. It is convenient to make a ring from a tinned stranded wire, which provides convenience when attached to the terminal and good contact.

Wires can be solid and stranded, copper and aluminum, varnished or not, clean new or acidified old. Depending on these features, their service differs.

The easiest way to tin is a single-core copper wire. If it is new, it is not covered with oxides and is tinned even without stripping, you just need to apply flux to the surface of the wire, apply solder to the heated soldering iron and move the soldering iron along the wire, slightly turning the wire. As a rule, tinning passes without problems.

If the conductor does not want to be tinned - due to the presence of varnish (enamel) - ordinary aspirin helps. Knowing how to solder with an aspirin (acetylsalicylic acid) tablet can be very helpful in some cases. You need to put it on a board, press the conductor against it and warm it up for a few seconds with a soldering iron. In this case, the tablet begins to melt, and the resulting acid destroys the varnish. After that, the wire usually tins easily.

If there is no aspirin, vinyl chloride insulation from electrical wires also helps to remove varnish that interferes with tinning from the surface of the conductor, which, when heated, releases substances that destroy the varnish coating. It is necessary to press the wires with a soldering iron to a piece of insulation and drag it several times between the insulation and the soldering iron. Then irradiate the wire in the usual way. When stripping varnish with sandpaper or a knife, cuts and breaks in thin wire strands are not uncommon. When stripping by firing, the wire may lose strength and break easily.

It should be borne in mind that molten PVC and aspirin release substances harmful to health into the air.

Also, for varnished (enamelled) wires, you can purchase a special flux that removes varnish.

The new stranded copper wire can be tinned just as easily as a single strand. The only feature is to rotate it in the direction in which the wires will be twisted and not untwisted.

Old wires can be coated with oxides that prevent tinning. The same aspirin tablet will help to cope with them. You need to unwind the conductor, put it on aspirin and warm it up with a soldering iron for several seconds, moving the conductor back and forth - and the problem of tinning will disappear.

For tinning aluminum wire, you will need a special flux - for example, the one that is called "Aluminum Brazing Flux". This flux is universal and is also suitable for soldering metals with a chemically resistant oxide film - stainless steel in particular. When using it, you just need to remember to clean the connection from flux residues afterward in order to avoid corrosion.

If during tinning the wires an excess of surf has formed on them, you can remove it by placing the wire vertically with the end down and pressing a heated soldering iron to its end. Excess solder will drain from the wire to the soldering iron.

Tinning of a large metal surface

Tinning of the metal surface may be necessary to protect it from corrosion or to subsequently solder another part to it. Even if a completely new sheet is tinned, which outwardly looks clean, foreign substances can always be on its surface - preservative lubricant, various contaminants. If a sheet covered with rust is tinned, then it needs to be cleaned all the more. Therefore, tinning always begins with a thorough cleaning of the surface. Rust is cleaned with an emery cloth or a metal brush, fats and oils are removed with gasoline, acetone or other solvent.

Then, with a brush or other tool that matches the flux, a flux is applied to the surface of the sheet (this may not be a pasty flux as in the photo below, but, for example, a solution of zinc chloride or another active flux).

A soldering iron with a relatively large flat surface of the tip is heated to the required temperature and solder is applied to the surface of the part. It is desirable that the power of the soldering iron be about 100 W or higher.

Then apply the soldering iron to the solder on the part with the largest plane and keep it in that position. The heating time of the part depends on its size, the power of the soldering iron and the contact area. The achievement of the required temperature is evidenced by the boiling of the flux, the melting of the solder and its spreading over the surface. Gradually, the solder is distributed over the surface.

After tinning, the metal surface is cleaned of flux residues with alcohol, acetone, gasoline, soapy water (depending on chemical composition flux).

If the solder does not spread over the metal surface, then this may be due to poor cleaning of the surface before tinning, poor heating of the metal (due to insufficient soldering iron power, small contact area, insufficient heating time of the metal part), dirty soldering iron tip. Another reason may be the wrong choice of flux or solder.

Tinning can be carried out by applying (draining) solder from a soldering iron and distributing it with a "sting" over the surface, or by supplying solder directly to the site - the solder melts when it touches the heated metal of the part.

Lap soldering of sheet metal

When repairing car bodies, all kinds of tin work, it becomes necessary to solder sheet metal overlaid. You can solder sheet parts by overlapping each other in two ways - by pre-irradiating them, or using solder paste containing solder and flux.

In the first case, the overlapping zones of the parts are pre-tinned after mechanical cleaning and degreasing. Then the parts of the connection are applied to each other with tinned surfaces, fixed with clamping devices and heated with a soldering iron from different sides to the melting temperature of the solder. Evidence of successful soldering is the flow of melted solder from the gap.

In the second method, after preparing the parts, the contact area of one of the parts is covered with solder paste. Then the parts are fixed in the desired position, tightened with clamps and, as in the first case, the seam is heated with a soldering iron from both sides.

When buying solder paste, you need to pay attention to its purpose, because. many solder pastes are designed for soldering electronics and do not contain active fluxes that allow soldering steel.

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Many can solder wires and radio components, but not everyone soldered metal. In this article, I will outline the principle of metal soldering as briefly as possible and with examples.

Introduction

Let's start with a general idea of soldering. Soldering is a physical and chemical process of obtaining a joint as a result of the interaction of solder and the metal to be soldered. It has similarities with fusion welding, but there are still differences between them. When welding at the seam, the parts to be welded melt, and when soldering, the brazed material does not melt. Also, unlike welding, soldering is carried out at temperatures below the melting of the soldered metal. The formation of a seam during soldering occurs by filling the gap between the parts to be joined with solder, i.e. the process occurs due to wetting and capillary effect.

The question arises, why use soldering if welding holds the parts together better. This has its advantages:

Soldering is more accessible than welding.
When soldering, the connections are detachable.
Welding is not amenable to small parts.

Soldering is a fairly strong connection, if you follow the technology.

Equipment

For soldering metal, the following basic equipment is required:

♦ soldering iron . Power depends on the size of the soldered parts. For soldering small parts (tin, wire, bolts), a 60-watt soldering iron will do, for larger ones - 100 watts and more. I use 2 soldering irons - for 65 and 100 w, for home conditions this is quite enough.

I will not dwell on how to tin a soldering iron, there are separate articles on the Internet about this. I'll just say the basics:

- When you turn on the soldering iron for the first time, you need to let it burn - put it on the street and wait until it stops smelling and smoking.

- The tin should evenly cover the tip. When heated, the sting will burn out, it will need to be sharpened and tinned again.

♦ Soldering acid and solder . A wooden stick is used to apply acid.

♦ Accessories . These include a file and emery, necessary for cleaning the soldering iron and parts.

The soldering iron also needs a stand. The simplest thing that can be used as a stand is any metal object from which the soldering iron will not roll.

To hold the parts to be soldered, various tools are used, such as a vice and pliers. Also, the details can be fixed with carnations on the board.

Soldering Basics

Let's now figure out which metals are easy to solder:

Silver
Brass
Nickel
Iron
Stainless steel

The remaining metals are soldered using special fluxes and other technologies. This article will not cover this topic.

We figured out the metals, now we begin to study the soldering process:

We clean the place where the seam will be located. For this I use .
We degrease the place of soldering using acetone, gasoline, etc.
We apply soldering acid to the seam with a wooden stick. We do it as smoothly as possible, because. in the future, the solder will spread exactly over this place.
Remove oxides (if any) from a pre-tinned soldering iron and touch them to the solder stick. Solder should lie on the sting in an even drop. If this does not happen, then the soldering iron is badly tinned.
We touch the sting to the place of soldering. It cannot be expected that soldering will occur at the first touch of the soldering iron. To do this, it is necessary to heat the surfaces to be soldered to the melting temperature of the solder. The heat from the soldering iron is not immediately transferred to the place to be soldered. Tin, wires and other thin parts warm up quite quickly, but not instantly. It takes a relatively long time to heat up thick materials.
To solder thin parts, you need to move the soldering iron rather slowly, moving it further when the solder spreads and floods the seam. When soldering thick objects, you have to keep the soldering iron in one place for a relatively long time and wait until the surfaces to be soldered warm up and the solder spreads along the seam.
After running the soldering iron for a certain distance, move it back a little, then forward again and back again, until the solder spills out in an even and clean path. As the solder is used up, it is collected from the stick. You should not collect a lot of solder, especially if the surfaces to be soldered are evenly and tightly connected; Too much solder will cause streaks to form.
After soldering, it is necessary to wash off the remaining acid with water. If the acid does not wash off well, use soap. Unwashed acid will oxidize the metal.

It is best to learn how to solder on tinplate. It does not need to be cleaned, but it must be degreased. In the presence of fat, the acid does not wet the surface of the tin. Below are examples of soldering wires and tin. For training, you can repeat all this.

Soldering tin / sheet metal

Connection "Back-to-back"

Quality: Low strength

Connection "Overlap"

Quality: Durable

Connection "To the castle"

Quality: Very durable

Soldering wire

Connection "Back-to-back"

Quality: Low strength

Connection "Overlap"

Quality: Durable

Amplified connection

Quality: Very durable

For reinforcement on the left connection, a wound turn to turn is used copper wire, on the right - the rod and thread are wrapped with a strip of tin:

A soldering iron is considered one of the most common tools that can be found in the home of any owner. It is not necessary to be a specialist and solder professionally. But every representative of the stronger sex should have general fundamental knowledge. Breaks in wires in electrical appliances, contacts in sockets, headphones, repairing circuit boards are frequent phenomena, faced with which a person wants to learn how to learn how to solder.

What is a soldering iron?

This is a special heat-emitting device with a power of 15 to 40 W, sufficient for soldering wires, boards and microcircuits. There are soldering irons, the power of which is higher. They are intended for light soldering - for soldering badly connected wires of thick diameter or for soldering XLR connectors. The function of the heating element in soldering irons is performed by a nichrome wire, which is wound on a tube containing a "sting" - the working surface of the device. The sting is a copper rod that is heated from

Copper is used in the soldering iron device, since this metal has a high thermal conductivity. The heat supply to the wire is due to electric current. The soldering iron device contains an insulator, which is mica. For safety reasons, it prevents the wires from contacting the metal tube and the soldering iron casing.

Which soldering iron to choose?

Learning how to solder correctly is easy, but with a well-chosen tool. Among the wide variety of these devices, an amateur master who decides to repair office equipment should choose an acoustic soldering iron, which is small in size and has good performance. It has a low heat capacity, which is desirable for fine soldering work in chip assembly. It is better for a novice master to opt for a device whose power does not exceed 40 watts. It is important that the soldering iron is also not weaker than 15 W, since the power in such a product will not be enough even to connect simple office equipment wires. It is preferable to buy a tool with a three-way grounding plug. Its presence will prevent possible voltage dissipation during the movement of electric current to the metal tube.

An industrial soldering iron is suitable for performing work on connecting calibration wires, chassis and stained glass work.

Which sting is better?

The working parts of soldering irons, depending on the size, are of two types:

ordinary, the diameter of which is 0.5 cm;
miniature with a diameter of 0.2 cm, used for soldering very thin wires and copper parts.

The working parts of soldering irons can be in the form of a needle, cone and spatula. The latter form is the most common, since it makes it possible to scoop up the required amount of solder. In addition, for the convenience of soldering, the tip can be straight or curved.

What is the principle of soldering?

The soldering procedure consists in joining two metal elements using a third (solder). In this case, the melting temperature of the parts to be joined must be higher than that of the third element, which, in the molten state, penetrates into the gaps of the parts to be joined, as well as into their structure, providing a mechanical connection. At the same time, an electrical contact is observed between the connected parts.

What do you need to work?

The soldering procedure is not difficult. The question of how to learn to solder from scratch is easily solved. To do this, it is enough to have necessary material and, following the instructions, start training.

Where to learn to solder?

You can train at home by soldering conventional electrical wires. The main thing is to follow the safety instructions.

At work you may need:

a soldering iron (according to professionals, a tool with a power of 20-40 W will be enough to work with small wires in electronics and radio engineering);
pliers;
scissors;
a set of needle files;
sandpaper;
insulating tape;
rosin;
solder.

The question "how to learn to solder" will be resolved after a few trainings. The beginner will gain confidence and experience. Step-by-step instructions for soldering can help him with this.

Where to begin?

Sting preparation. To do this, using pliers and needle files, you need to clean the working part of the soldering iron. The sting should have an angle of 30-45 degrees. In the event that the tip is damaged, it must be sharpened again, giving the necessary shape. After that, the tip is tinned - the heated soldering iron should be dipped first in rosin, and then in solder.
For safety reasons, it is necessary to prepare a lining under the soldering iron. This is due to the fact that the device is heated to a temperature of more than 300 degrees and operates under high electrical voltage. It is important to optimize your workplace during the operation of the soldering iron. It is desirable that a piece of textolite or plywood be used as a lining. Special trays for solder and rosin are also needed.
Cleaning the surfaces of the joined metals under the solder. To do this, you need a solvent or soldering acid. It is important that the surfaces to be soldered be free of oil, grease and other contaminants.

Sequence of work

How to learn to solder correctly, it will become clear if you stick to step by step instructions. Necessary:

Install the soldering iron on the stand and plug it into the mains.
Dip in rosin. This is done 5-7 minutes after connecting to the outlet. The purpose of this procedure is to check the heating temperature of the tip and get rid of scale. The soldering iron is considered ready for use if the rosin boils and melts. If it only softens, then the sting is not heated enough. When the soldering iron overheats, the rosin hisses and splatters. In this case, the device needs to cool down a bit.
Treat surfaces with tin. Molten solder covers the joints of metal products.
Press the tinned surfaces together. In places where they are combined with a soldering iron, apply a new portion of solder. The parts to be joined must be pressed until the solder has cooled and hardened.

Solder use

Successful soldering is possible with the skillful selection of the necessary solder - an alloy of tin and lead. The most common solder is POS-40 and POS-60. They are characterized by a low melting point (183 degrees) and are used in most soldering work to connect steel elements. This standard solder is in the form of a wire with a diameter of 2.5 mm, which is very convenient for working with microcircuits.

For soldering aluminum parts, it is advisable to purchase a special aluminum solder. During operation, it is important to remember that, when heated, tin-lead compounds emit gases that are very harmful to humans. Therefore, it is recommended to work with them in a well-ventilated area using special respirators, gloves and goggles.

How to learn to solder wires?

So, the sequence of work is standard for all. The connected ends of the wires are tinned. But for reliable fastening, it is recommended to tightly twist them together. During the procedure, the tip of the soldering iron is directed with one hand to the joints, and with the other hand, solder wire is brought to this place.

In some cases, twisting the wires is not possible. Then the ends of the wires to be connected must be laid parallel to each other and squeezed with pliers. The work is done with one hand, the second - directs the tip of the soldering iron with solder to the junction. Holding the ends of the wire must be done after the soldering iron tip is removed from the soldering area.

Sometimes there is a need to connect the end of one wire to the middle of another. Twisting in this case is done by wrapping the end of the wire around the other to which it is attached.

It must be remembered that butt soldering of wires is not possible, since its reliability depends on the strength of the mechanical connection.

The question of how to learn how to solder wires is one of the most relevant among Internet users. Having mastered the technique of splicing and soldering, the craftsmen get the opportunity to independently, without the help of specialists, perform a number of the following tasks:

seamless heating equipment;
cord extension for electric guitar;
connecting the usb cable to the antenna, etc.

What is heat shrink?

When splicing wires, professionals recommend using special ones. Their diameter must be twice as large as that of the wire. The tube is put on one end of the wire. After its mechanical coupling with another wire and soldering, the heat shrink is dragged to the place of their connection. It should be positioned so that 1 cm remains at each end of the seam. After that, soldering is performed again. The heat shrink should evenly cover and heat the wire connection. As a result of exposure to high temperatures, the tube is soldered, providing reliable insulation in the connection zone, as well as the strength of mechanical adhesion.

How to learn to solder boards?

Before proceeding with complex soldering, such as working with diode strips, experts recommend that novice masters get inexpensive budget boards. Having trained on them and having mastered the standard soldering techniques, after a while the beginner will learn how to solder microcircuits.

This type of soldering consists of successive steps:

Preparatory. Before starting work, you need to ensure a strong connection and lower the resistance. To this end, the surface must be thoroughly cleaned of grease and dust. For degreasing, you can use napkins and soapy water. Acetone is used when you need to polish the surface of the circuit to a shine. Methyl hydrate is recommended as a safer solvent. It is just as effective as acetone, but has a less pungent odor.
Placement of soldered parts of the board. Before you learn how to solder a circuit, you need to know the location of all its elements. In the very first place, flat parts are subject to soldering. This is a resistor and a varistor. Then proceed to the capacitor, transistor, transformer, microphone and potentiometer. This sequence guarantees the safety of board elements that are sensitive to temperature effects.
Heating the joint to improve the thermal conductivity of the metal. The tip of the soldering iron must be leaned against the components of the circuit for a few seconds. It is important to prevent it from overheating. Bubbles appearing on the surface will testify to it. In this case, the soldering iron must be removed from the soldering area.
Solder application. It is carried out until a slight elevation appears on the diagram.
Removal of surplus. It is carried out after hardening and cooling of the solder. It is recommended not to rush, but to allow the circuit to cool down for a while. This is important, because you can break the connections made, and the work will have to be done again.

Every man should learn how to solder circuits. This will make it possible to repair plugs, modems, etc. with your own hands.

Soldering as a process is not limited to working with copper wires and microcircuits. Having mastered the ability to use a soldering iron on wires, you can proceed to subsequent, more complex operations using various solders and various metals.