Often in the summer we want to sit in a rocking chair in the fresh air, drink tea, read a newspaper ... but many homeowners do not have a terrace on which to do this, or it is small and uncomfortable. Agree, putting furniture and sitting on the lawn is not always convenient. For example, after the rain it will be damp, and the lawn will not benefit. In this article I will tell you how to make a wooden terrace for your home with your own hands.
To begin with, we need boards, beams, a lot of fasteners, cement, stain or wood paint, and impregnation for wood will also not hurt. Of the tools we used circular saw, jigsaw, hand mill, screwdriver and pneumatic gun, but you can get by with hand tools. We will build on reliable frame technology. Think ahead and calculate right amount materials.
Based on the required size of the terrace, we mark future pits for racks on the lawn. We did this with a rangefinder, tape measure and spray paint.
We dig a hole about 50 centimeters deep and about 20 in diameter. Fill it in, or stir the cement right inside. It will be something like a columnar foundation. If the budget allows, you can think about the advantages of screw piles.
We put the racks of our terrace in cement. We made them from a 7x7 cm beam impregnated with resin, thinner is not recommended. Racks are recessed into the cement, so it is especially important to maintain their correct position, without slopes and distortions. This design is not very durable, but cheap. For all its simplicity, it can withstand up to ten years, which is quite enough until the next update of the veranda.
It is easier to install several racks at once with frame boards already nailed to them.
We baited them with a gun, and after the complete assembly of the frame, we already twisted the main screws. Racks were leveled with a level.
For structural rigidity, we make a cross member, also with the installation of racks in cement. The bar itself is made double, for the future installation of crossbars into it on both sides.
We have a drain pipe installed on the wall of the house, so we had to lay a pipe for it under the terrace. To do this, we dug a small ditch and laid an ordinary plastic pipe of the required length in it.
We lay a membrane or geotextile on the ground so that weed grass does not grow under the terrace and moisture does not accumulate. Without it, the grass will quickly grow under the boards, moisture will accumulate in it, which will ultimately adversely affect the tree, which will begin to rot. First, it is desirable to remove a layer of turf. In theory, you can fill it with large gravel, this is better, but more expensive.
Installing crossbars. In the same way as the outer frame, we first fix the boards with a nail gun, and after installing all the crossbars, we finally fasten them.
This approach will help to avoid mistakes - the design is easy to assemble and can be quickly disassembled.
Now it's time to install the downpipe outlet. We assemble the corner with the help of adapters and connect it to the pipe laid under the terrace.
We also put geotextiles there, make crossbeams, and install the steps themselves.
We install a frame on the main frame using boards with rounded edges. To do this, we took ordinary boards and processed their edges with a special cutter, however, if you do not have a manual router, you can purchase ready-made boards with rounded corners.
The frame is mounted immediately with large self-tapping screws.
We begin to lay the floor of the terrace. Since our terrace is longer than standard size boards, we laid the boards as follows: first one whole and half of the board on the left, and the next row on the contrary, first half of the board, and then the whole. This method of installing the floor has been known for a long time, and has a number of advantages, it looks more beautiful. It helps to avoid typical errors of frame construction and is also less prone to premature failure due to drying out of the boards in one place of the seam.
So, the installation of the floor is completed, you can start sanding the boards, but ... we decided that it would not be superfluous to make a bench out of the remnants of the material and fix it next to the edge of the terrace. This is due to the fact that in one place of our terrace it does not adjoin the house because of the flower bed.
In this way, we create both a permanent seat and a terrace edge next to the flower bed.
Let's start sanding the terrace. A vibratory grinder, or an ordinary sandpaper - it's up to you. I can only say that with electrical equipment, work is done several times faster. So do not skimp on a good power tool, it really makes life and repairs easier.
We paint the terrace with wood paint, having previously treated it with an antiseptic. This will significantly extend the life of the structure. Can be topcoated with a varnish suitable for outdoor use, such as yachting. It is resistant to moisture and will help protect our terrace from the effects of bad weather on long years.
The terrace is ready! Now you have a place for daily rest, family tea parties and just summer pastime.
Every year, new tools and materials are invented for use in garden plots. Most of the novelties in the garden plots do not take root, but some are very useful. One of these innovations is geotextiles or geotextiles.
Geotextile is a synthetic material that does not decompose in the ground. It was invented and began to be used in the creation of roads and footpaths.
You have probably seen more than once in cities how the tiles on the sidewalks begin to sag. This is due to the fact that the soil was poorly compacted before laying the tiles, or a gully formed from melt water. In these places, the tile sags.
This phenomenon can be avoided if geotextiles are used when laying tiles. It is laid on the ground at the location of the track. Crushed stone is poured on top, then another layer of geotextile, then sand or cement-sand mixture and then lay the tiles.
How is load balancing done? If the tile is laid without geotextile, then when walking along one line, the soil gradually shrinks along this line and the tile sags.
In the case of using geotextiles, the load when walking along one line will no longer fall on the ground, but first of all on the entire geofabric. But from above, the whole mass of rubble and tiles presses on the canvas. Therefore, geotextiles cannot push through the soil along the walking line. Because the entire mass of crushed stone, tiles, people and cars is relatively evenly distributed throughout the canvas and, accordingly, evenly presses on the ground.
Accordingly, the use of No. 1 geotextiles on garden plot.
Lay it when arranging paths, recreation areas, parking lots. Moreover, use it not only when laying tiles, but also if you have a coating in the form of crushed stone, screenings, pebbles, ASG, etc. Your paths and platforms will be smooth for a long time.
Application #2 - Geotextiles can be self-surfacing. On the paths, level the ground and cover it with geofabric. In this case, the grass will not grow on the paths and it will be clean on them during the rains.
In the photo - on the left the path is overgrown with grass, on the right the path is closed with geotextile - there is no grass.
In the Novosibirsk center of natural agriculture "Siyaniye" we tested four types of geotextiles for five years.
Most of all, we liked the imported geofabric. Strong, durable, aesthetic material. I liked everything, except for the price, which is three times higher than domestic counterparts.
The second type - non-woven geotextile - did not impress us. We closed the paths for them and in the first year everything was fine, only he did not let the water pass well and it stood in puddles for a long time after the rains. The next year, holes formed in this geotextile, into which grass began to grow. And in the third year, this type of geotextile collapsed completely.
The third type - needle-punched geotextile brand "D" - we also laid on the tracks. After the season of operation, we abandoned its use for covering the ground. This geotextile white color and therefore stains of dirt on it are conspicuous. Also, the white material distracts attention from the plants - it “hits the eyes”. And, most importantly, when walking, holes are wiped in the material and grass grows in them. Moreover, this geotextile has a fibrous structure, and when the roots and stems of grass are woven into the fibers, they cannot be torn out in any way.
But this geotextile turned out to be the most best material for shelter for the winter of plants. We covered them with European roses, rhododendrons, coniferous plants, thuja, blueberry. All plants perfectly endured the hefty Siberian frosts and quickly began to grow in the spring.
The fourth type is a woven geotextile made of polypropylene grade "T". He's been closing lanes for four years now. During this time, despite intensive walking on it, this type of geotextile was completely preserved and was not damaged. Grass and weeds do not grow through it. It allows water to pass through and during rains and irrigation there are no puddles on the paths. This brand of geotextile has a fairly reasonable cost and therefore it can be widely used in garden plots.
The only disadvantage of this geofabric is that it gradually spreads into fibers, the edges begin to “fringe”. However, this can be easily avoided if two technological operations are performed during its application. After cutting a piece of geotextile, its edges must be melted on fire (candle, gas-burner). Then tuck the edge to a width of 3-5 cm. That is, the edge will be double and after that the geotextile is laid on the ground and attached to it. As a result of these simple measures, the geofabric will no longer spread into fibers. If there is dumping on top of the geotextile, then these operations do not need to be done.
How do we attach geotextiles?
The first option, you have wooden borders installed on the beds. In this case, attach the geofabric to the tree with staples using a construction stapler.
The second option, geotextiles need to be attached to the ground. In this case, lay it on the ground, having previously melted and tucked the edges. The pieces are joined with an overlap of 5-10 cm. In the places of overlap, place washers for fastening thermal insulation (without dowels) and hammer a 200 mm construction nail into the central hole with a hammer. Washers are placed after 50-70 cm.
The third option, you have a place for beds, but they have not yet been made. Close the entire area under the garden with geotextiles. From above, place the borders of the beds made of boards or galvanized and fasten them to the ground. Inside the beds, cut out the geotextile with an indent of 5-7 cm from the curbs and pour the soil mixture on top. At the joints of the pieces of geotextile on the paths, fasten them with washers as described in option 2. If you will make decorative backfilling on top of the geotextile, then fastening with washers is not necessary.
Additional application of geotextiles.
Protection of wooden borders from moisture.
If you have fenced raised (high) beds with boards, then they will rot in places with contact with the ground. To avoid this, it is necessary to protect the wood from decay. The usual impregnation with an antiseptic will help for a while. It is also impossible to protect the board with a plastic film from the inside. Because if moisture (rain, watering) gets into the space between the film and the boards, the wood will rot faster. Because moisture has nowhere to go, except in the wood itself.
If, on the inside, geotextiles are attached to the boards, then a thin air layer forms between it and the boards. Ventilation will go through it, and excess moisture will drain into the ground through geotextiles.
The geofabric is attached to the boards with brackets using a construction stapler.
Protecting the slopes of an organic trench from grass.
One way to quickly fertile soil on the beds is the device of organic trenches. In place of the beds, trenches are dug, they are stuffed with organic residues, into which the microbiological preparation Shine-3 is added. Organics quickly, in 1.5-3 months, rot and the trenches are filled with fertile compost. Further, any garden crops are grown in them.
But when arranging organic trenches, two side effect: when walking along the paths, the edges of the trench crumble and lawn or meadow grass from the paths actively penetrates into the compost.
These side effects can be avoided as follows. Between the trenches we make paths 70-90 cm wide. We cover them with geotextile, the edges of which should hang down into the trenches and reach their bottom.
We attach it to the ground with electrodes bent in the form of the letter "P". In place of the beds, we install curbs made of boards or galvanized so that they protrude 10-15 cm beyond the edge of the trenches onto the tracks. After that, the trenches are covered with organic residues or soil mixture of earth with compost.
Curbs will keep them from coming close to the edges of the trench and they will not crumble. Geotextiles will not allow grass to grow on the paths. On top of the track, you can pave with backfill.
Plant cover.
You can use geotextiles to temporarily shelter plants overnight from frost. It will protect your plants from more severe frosts than conventional covering material or plastic sheeting.
You can use geotextiles to temporarily shelter planted seedlings from the sun. If you planted seedlings in hot weather, then it can dry out in the sun. The experiments have shown that covering the planted seedlings with black materials (geotextiles, pots, boxes) improves its adaptation to new conditions. To cover the plants, place arcs over them and throw geotextiles over them. The ends of the tunnel do not need to be closed, through them the plants will be illuminated by diffused light. Geotextiles can be removed in 5-7 days.
Similarly, we cover roses from the sun. It often happens when gardeners come to the garden plot in the spring and see that the shoots of roses have turned black. They think the roses are frozen in the winter. This is not so - just roses burned in the bright spring sun. Because of this, there are many cases when the snow has melted, gardeners see the green shoots of roses and rejoice at this. And a week later they come and see that the shoots have turned black. This is just the action of the sun, not frost. Therefore, in spring, seedlings must be covered from the sun until several leaves bloom.
We tried to close the roses different ways- covering material, as well as geotextiles of different brands. It is better to make a winter shelter for roses with a geofabric of brand "D", and a spring one from the sun with a geofabric of brand "T". Under it, roses are best preserved and begin to grow faster. Apparently, this is due to the fact that the black geofabric heats up better in the sun and the roses are in a mini-greenhouse.
The device of drainage systems.
With the use of geotextile, it is not at all necessary to make concrete or plastic drainage wells or trenches, as well as lay pipes. It is enough to dig a well or a trench, close its bottom and walls with geotextiles, fill it with gravel or crushed stone, cover it with geotextiles from above and fill it with soil. And your drainage system will drain water perfectly.
The device of reservoirs.
Geotextiles are laid on the bottom of the excavation of the reservoir under the waterproofing material to protect it from possible mechanical damage from foreign objects in the ground (nail, root, sharp stone, glass, etc.). It is much easier and cheaper to lay geotextiles than to look for a place where the waterproofing is damaged and seal it later.
Lawn equipment.
Geotextiles are laid at the location of the lawn on the local depleted soil. Imported fertile soil is poured from above. It is carefully tamped and the seeds of lawn grass are sown. Thanks to the geotextile, the soil under the lawn will be even all the time, and the fertile soil will not mix with the depleted one.
Strengthening the base under the foundation.
Geotextile is laid under strip foundation or monolithic slab for balancing the load on heaving soils.
Plant growth restriction.
If fruit and ornamental trees, berry bushes are planted in a lawn or sod, then it is necessary to prevent the penetration of grass roots into the fertile soil of the planting pit. For this, the vertical edges of the pit are wrapped with geotextile.
Application as technical fabric.
You can cover things and shelving with geotextiles from dust in utility rooms. There is an experience of temporarily closing the space under the house on screw piles.
To date, there are the most different variants paving slabs. This method of arrangement is considered the most convenient, affordable and durable. Thanks to the tiles, you can arrange not only paths, but also a parking space. However, over time, even through the most durable coating, ubiquitous weeds begin to break through. How to prevent this?
Laying tiles
The fact is that, considering the options, many overlook one important point. To create a strong and durable foundation, it is necessary to prepare an appropriate “cushion” of crushed stone and sand for the slabs. However, this will not protect the path from unwanted grass.
To prevent this from happening, it is enough to lay insulating material under the tile. Usually dense polyethylene is used for this purpose. You can also prepare a concrete screed. In this case, the effect will be permanent. However, if the track is already laid, there is nothing to fix. It remains only to look for ways to get rid of the grass between the paving slabs.
mechanical method
This method involves elementary weeding, which must be done periodically. In order to not have to pull out the grass often, it is recommended to remove it before seeds form on the weeds. It is best to clean the gaps between paving slabs after rain. The fact is that from moist soil it is much easier to pull out weeds along with the roots.
Salt and bleach
These components will allow you to get rid of hated weeds for a long time. How to get rid of grass between paving slabs in this way? Very easy. The easiest way is to simply sprinkle the seams between the stones with salt. However, it is much more effective to dilute it in water and add a little bleach. If you pour such a solution between the plates, then the grass will not grow throughout the summer season. In the spring of next year, it is enough to repeat the procedure once and you can forget about weeds for the whole summer.
However, it should be borne in mind that this method will only work if processed before the hated weeds appear between the plates.
Roundup and other means
This remedy for grass between paving slabs is very popular with summer residents. Chemical composition can be purchased at any specialized store. After processing, the weeds will immediately die. However, it should be borne in mind that this tool is very aggressive. This means that in the process of work it is necessary to use personal protective equipment (gloves and a mask).
In addition, Roundup destroys not only weeds, but also all plants. Therefore, if flowers grow along the path, they can also suffer greatly.
It is better to use less poisonous drugs. For example, herbicide treatment will be very effective. Means of this type are familiar to anyone who has ever tried to get rid of pests.
You can destroy weeds with a very effective solution. To prepare it, you need to mix 6 parts of lime and 1 part of sulfur. It is enough to add the resulting mixture to water (about 60 shares) and pour the seams.
stone chips
If you prepare a kind of backfill, then the problem of how to get rid of the grass between the paving slabs will be solved quite quickly. To do this, it is enough to mix sand, water and small gravel in equal proportions (it is better to take screenings). The resulting mixture is poured between the plates and thoroughly compacted. Weeding is recommended beforehand.
Cement
This method is considered quite radical, but very effective. Therefore, if the question of how to get rid of grass between paving slabs is already rather tired, you should pay attention to it.
To solve the problem, you need to mix equal parts of sand and cement. The dry mixture must be diluted with water to obtain a creamy mass and pour it into the seams between the plates. When the mixture hardens, the grass will not be able to break through it for many years. Preliminary it is recommended to treat the gaps between the tiles with a herbicide.
Before you start fighting weeds, you should learn more about them, as there are different ones that are easier or, conversely, harder to remove.
Woodlouse
She scares many gardeners. These weeds spread rapidly and their seeds mature in less than 1.5 months. At the same time, the sprouts stably endure frosts. Up to 2500 seeds ripen on one plant, so such a “neighbor” in a suburban area can bring a lot of problems.
To get rid of wood lice on paving slabs, it is recommended that the soil be “deoxidized” first. It is also worth considering that this weed does not like a dry environment, so the seams must be thoroughly weeded and covered with sand.
It is also worth considering that wood lice can continue to exist even after it is removed from the soil. Therefore, torn weeds must not only be thrown out, but burned.
birch
This weed also has a lush growth. However, unlike wood lice, birch loves dry soil very much. Therefore, in the case of its appearance, the seams, on the contrary, need to be moistened. Also, this weed prefers to grow in slightly acidic soils. At the same time, the birch is distinguished by a very developed root system, which can go to a depth of up to 3 meters. If you remove the upper part of the weed, then new buds will form on the roots very quickly, and new shoots will appear with a vengeance.
To get rid of the weed, you need to use compounds to "deoxidize" the soil. You can also try to pull out the roots, but this will be very difficult.
Lawn grass
Getting rid of this weed is very easy. Lawn grass has a very weak root system. Therefore, so that it does not spoil the look of garden paths, it is enough to periodically weed. In addition, it is worth noting that lawn grass is very fond of slightly acidic soil. Therefore, if you periodically spill the seams with water, the weed will quickly disappear.
Moss
This type of weed also often appears between the slabs of garden paths. To get rid of such a problem, you need to dilute table vinegar and water in equal proportions and spill the seams between the plates with the resulting liquid.
It is also worth considering that moss loves shade very much. Therefore, you can get rid of it forever if the garden paths are well lit by the sun's rays. To do this, cut the branches of trees hanging over the paths.
Knowing how to bring the grass between paving slabs, you can get rid of an unpleasant sight for a long time. You need to understand that weeds not only spoil appearance tracks, but also contribute to their rapid destruction. Everyone knows that grass can grow even through asphalt, so you should not turn a blind eye to such problems. It is better to remove the weeds once and for all and forget about this trouble.
