A homemade circular saw is a kind of handy tool that can cope with a number of construction tasks at home. In principle, it will not be difficult to make a circular yourself even if you do not have any special skills, the main thing is to have at least a little idea about working with metal. Required material can usually be found in a garage or home workshop, and a steel angle will do here, profile pipe rectangular section and engine. The assembled circular saw can be put on an existing workbench, or, in the absence of such, you will have to build a table for a circular saw with your own hands. As for the motor, you can use the unit from the old washing machine or walk-behind tractor, but first things first.
Hand held angle grinder
If there is a “grinder” on the farm, then there is no better device for a hand-held circular saw. Don't know how to make a mini circular saw at home from such a popular tool? Do not despair, because its manufacture only involves providing a sliding stop and an axial handle to an existing unit. The sliding stop includes in its design two pieces of a metal corner of a small section located on both sides of the saw blade. With the help of bolts and nuts, the corners are connected on the front and back sides with a cross ligament, and the technological gap between the sidewalls of the thrust structure and the working element will be provided with washers.
It is necessary to put on a metal band clamp on the grinder so that its screw tie is located at the bottom, and a strip of galvanized metal with a hole for the sliding stop, folded in half, is already fixed to it. In principle, a special clamp with a stand can be made as a single unit, but in this case, the thickness of the metal strip will ideally be at least one and a half millimeters. Further, in the gearbox housing of the future circular, you will have to make a couple of holes for the bolts, for which it is disassembled, and the drilling points are determined. Through the holes made, an axial handle for a circular saw assembled from a grinder is attached, since the existing handle will not allow high-quality cutting, even if the master has remarkable physical strength.
The axial handle, which will be supplied with a circular grinder, is made of a metal rod or tube. The design in shape can be a transverse bracket or a kind of horn. The ends of the metal part, with which the handle is attached to the gearbox, are provided with holes for fasteners. There is one here important point: the ends must not be riveted to prevent the deflection of the handle during the operation of the hand-assembled circular. It is also necessary to make an adjusting rod from a piece of metal rod (4 - 6 mm), for which we bend one end into a loop, rivet a little and form a hole for the front stop bolt. The uniformity of the gap, as usual, is regulated by washers.
At the other end of the rod, a thread is cut, thanks to which it will connect to the handle. First, one nut is screwed onto the thread, and after assembling the structure, the second one. By tightening and lowering the nuts of this fixture for a homemade hand-held circular saw, the depth of cut is adjusted. This is how at home you can convert the grinder into a full-fledged disk tool designed for cutting various materials. By the way, by remaking a circular from a drill, you can achieve a similar result.
Miniature Tabletop Circular Machine
The mobility of the element is achieved by sawing a horizontal segment into two uniform parts, which, after installation, are fastened with clamps. To the vertical part of the bed on the clamp is fixed Circular Saw. A table from a hand-held circular saw assembly can function as a cutting machine if a standard cutting disc is installed on the grinder. It is worth noting that the through cut here will not exceed 80 mm, and for processing larger lumber, a more serious home-made circular machine will be required, which will be discussed later.
Stationary machine
Circular machine, as close as possible to factory models, requires a competent approach to assembly, therefore, before making a stationary type circular saw, you need to think through everything to the smallest detail. In principle, a desktop mini circular saw differs from a stationary one in the height of the frame, which directly depends on the nature of the work performed and the dimensions of the workpieces that the device will process. One-time work can be carried out on a compact table saw, while a circular saw from a hand-held circular saw can be easily hidden in a barn or pantry, and a carpenter who constantly manipulates lumber will need a stationary home-made circular saw. Below is a diagram that details all the elements and fixtures for a circular saw of this type.
As can be seen from the figure, homemade circulars of this type have a clear design, and drawings like the one presented above greatly facilitate the process of their assembly. Before you make a circular, as well as mount a circular table with your own hands, we will consider each detail of the unit separately in order to know all the intricacies of its operation and installation.
Circular table
A table for a manual circular saw with a slot in the center is sometimes remade from an ordinary kitchen table or assembled from bars or metal profiles. Experts strongly recommend covering the table for a circular saw with a sheet of galvanized metal, since without a coating, the base is threatened with abrasion in the center from constant friction of the lumber, which in turn will negatively affect the quality of the cut, and the depth of cut will be uneven. The cross ties that reinforce the saw table are best made from a 60 - 80 mm steel angle with the horizontal segment outward in order to simplify the installation of the side limiter. A home-made table on which a circular saw will be installed must be strong and stable, and it must also be securely fixed in a fixed position.
saw blade
The toothed disc should rise above the surface of the circular table by a maximum of a third of its diameter, otherwise it will not saw the wood properly, and the process itself will become dangerous. If you need to cut a beam with a diameter of, for example, 100 mm, a similar cutter parameter should not exceed 350 mm, however, an engine with a power of 1 kW or more is also required here. For workpieces with a diameter of more than 150 mm, a mini circular made by hand is hardly suitable. On some factory circular machines, a riving knife is provided, which is installed behind the disk at a distance of 2 - 3 mm from the saw teeth. It eliminates the jamming moment due to the closing of the parts of the sawn workpiece, therefore it can be very useful in the case when a home-made circular is assembled.
Side stop adjustable
It is possible to put a high-quality emphasis from a steel corner with a section of about 80 mm, which is 3–4 cm longer than the table structure. The flat sides of the corner are bent down so that their width is one and a half cm more than the thickness of the table. After installation, the stop is fixed on a homemade circular table in a predetermined position with the help of bolts. The adjustment of this element is carried out according to the template placed between it and the cutter.
Shaft
The shaft mounted on the circular is the most critical unit, therefore, only a specialist using special equipment should be engaged in its turning and testing as an assembly with the disk. A pipe product with a carelessly fixed circle is excluded immediately, because the slightest errors in the operation of this element will result in major troubles such as equipment breakdown, damage to the workpiece and injury to the operator. The best solution would be to purchase a finished shaft with a seat for the cutter. It is better to give preference to self-aligning ball bearings that have a curved inner surface, otherwise the assembly made by hand will quickly collapse and the shaft mounted on a home-made circular will become unusable.
Broadcast
In our case, a V-belt drive would be an ideal option, but it is better to refuse a rigid gear mechanism, since such a homemade product does not guarantee safety. If a nail is suddenly caught in the lumber, the motor rotor will provoke the destruction of the disc, which can lead to injury. If the inner diameter of the belt drive pulleys is small, then slippage will be ensured, and the tensioned belt will serve as a kind of damper. The gear ratio is usually chosen based on the engine speed, always taking into account the allowable number of disk revolutions. The smaller the diameter of the saw blade, the greater the frequency of its rotation, and the cleaner the reworked unit will cut.
Motor
Among home-made devices, the most popular is a circular assembled from an engine from a washing machine. This choice is explained by the fact that its operation scheme is best suited for such purposes. Unlike collector units, which are usually supplied with power tools, the engine from the washing machine runs at lower speeds, which means that it shows longer operation, has increased efficiency and is not so prone to all sorts of clogging. You can also use a three-phase motor, but then additional costs will be required for the purchase of a starting and running capacitor, so it is more economical to get by with a device from a washing machine. Here, in general, and all the wisdom. In the video, you can see how a homemade circular works and evaluate its capabilities in practice.
A circular saw is used to cut wood and plastic. Its cutting base is a flat metal disk with a serrated outer edge. Choosing such a tool, everyone decides for himself what kind he needs: desktop, manual, stationary. Many prefer the manual option. However, in some situations it is necessary to fix the saw. In this case, you can make a table for a circular saw with your own hands, having the opportunity, if necessary, to fix the tool.
Preparation of tools and materials
Having decided to make a table for a manual circular saw on your own, you need to take care of the availability of all the materials necessary for work:
- laminated plywood (9 or 11 mm), size 800 mm by 800 mm;
- Chipboard 16 mm or other sheet material suitable for the manufacture of the body, sheet size 400 by 784 mm - 4 pieces;
- bars 40 by 40 mm (length depends on installation method);
- self-tapping screws;
- bolts.
For such a table, any hand-held circular saw will do. At the same time, it must be remembered that when attached to the table, the depth of cut decreases by 10-20 mm. So saws with small discs are not suitable for such a table.
Step-by-step instructions for assembling a table for a circular saw
1. Manufacturing of the case. Sheet material for the body is cut to size: 400 mm by 800 mm. Parts are fastened with screws and bars. It is better to assemble by pre-drilling the outer parts of the box. The result is a rectangular box without a bottom and a lid. The upper part of the bars is subsequently used to secure the plywood sheet.
2. Preparing and fixing the plywood top. Hole cut. First, a piece of 800 mm by 80 mm is cut out of a sheet of plywood. Next, measure the support shoe of the saw that will be mounted on the tabletop. On the reverse side of the plywood, markup is performed. You will need 2 center axles. Without them, you cannot perform accurate markup. Then marks are applied to the plywood corresponding to the dimensions of the support shoe. Then they make such measurements that the circular has: the diameter of the lower protective casing, its thickness, maximum distance from the edges of the support shoe. In accordance with the dimensions obtained, marks are placed and a rectangular hole is cut out with a jigsaw.
3. Fastening the saw to the plywood tabletop. First, 4 holes are made in the shoe. Diameter - 10 mm. Next, install the tool so that the working part goes into the sawn hole. When the saw is leveled, mark the location of the holes. Marks are made in the central part. In order for the tool to stand securely, ploughshare bolts with a countersunk conical head (M8) will be needed for fastening. To install them, you will have to take care of the high-quality deepening of the cap, it can protrude by a maximum of 1 mm in an open form.
Plywood is drilled with outside, the diameter of the holes obtained should be 8 mm, and then a countersink should be made under the cap. When the holes are ready, the saw itself is installed on the saw table for the circular saw, the bolts are tightened from the inside using nuts with plastic growers or spring washers.
4. Fastening the tabletop to the body. Start button. First, holes are made at a distance of 30 mm in the corners of the plywood tabletop. Then a hole is drilled in the central part of the bars. The parts are connected using a 18 mm M8 steel fitting. On the side part, a regular "Start - start" button is installed. An electrical network is laid inside the case, and the button on the tool itself is clamped.
5. Making a thrust beam. A simple table for a circular saw will become much more convenient if you equip it with a thrust beam. The drawings contain all the required dimensions. The beam can be made of plywood, and secured with full extension furniture rails. The resulting beam should slide over the surface at an angle of 90° to the cutting plane with little clearance.
6. An emphasis for longitudinal cuts. It is made from an aluminum cornice. At 150 mm from the edges, holes for the bolts are first drilled, and then 2 lines are drawn from the place where the bolts are attached to the center line. At the intersection and further towards the bolts at a distance of 30 mm, holes of 12 mm are made. Bolts from below are tightened with nuts. And along the drawn lines, cuts are made to the tonic, their width can be seen in the photo.
- Serious tool
- Assembly of a stationary structure
- Make other options
- desktop tool
- a necessary and useful tool in the arsenal of a home master. It is especially necessary for those who work a lot with wood. To make a circular saw on your own, it is enough to have a great desire, necessary tools and know how to work with metal.
Serious tool
A circular saw, built with your own hands, can be a stationary or desktop model. In essence, they are one and the same. The devices differ only in the height of the bed. What height to do will depend on the intensity of use of the workplace. If the saw is rarely used, then it can be made in the desktop version. If necessary, the structure can be dismantled and make room in the workshop for other work. If the master constantly works with wood, then a stationary circular saw is more suitable for him.
The stationary structure consists of several main components: a table, a toothed disk, an engine, an adjustable side stop and a shaft.
For its manufacture will be needed:
- A sheet of metal with a thickness of at least 8 mm.
- Metal corner 45x45 mm.
- Electric motor.
- Metal disc with teeth (diameter 400 mm).
- Ball bearings.
- Welding machine.
- Wooden block.
- A piece of plastic or laminate.
Do-it-yourself circular saw will be much easier to do if you first draw up a drawing future design and specify all the required dimensions. All parts are made in accordance with the drawing, and then assembled into a frame using a welding machine.
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Assembly of a stationary structure
The main part of the saw is the table. The tabletop must be made of sheet metal. Its dimensions depend on the preferences of the master. The main thing is that the circular saw with your own hands is stable and it is convenient to work on it. If additional space is required for installing other fixtures, then the surface can be covered with a sheet of thick plywood (Fig. 1).
Particular attention must be paid to the height of the guide. It is most convenient when the guide protrudes 120 mm above the table. As experience shows, with this arrangement, it becomes possible to process boards not only in width, but also in thickness.
Figure 1. A sheet of thick plywood is great for covering the countertop surface to install additional fixtures.
To make a guide for a circular saw, you will need 2 pieces of a metal corner and a clamp that is welded to them. metal detail intentionally made from two parts of the corner. A solid corner will lead when the saw is working. Using bolts and self-tapping screws, you need to fasten a wooden block to the corners, and fix a piece of plastic or laminate 120 mm wide on it. The length of the piece of laminate should correspond to the length of the table. This part should be exposed at an angle of 90 ° relative to the tabletop (Fig. 2).
A do-it-yourself circular saw must be height adjustable. In some designs, you can adjust the table, but it is more convenient for work when you can raise and lower the saw itself.
A single platform is required to install the motor and shaft. It should be installed on one axis in the form of a rocker arm. It is fixed with a piece of bolt with a diameter of 15 mm, which is welded to it. A metal plate must be welded on the side of the saw, in which a hole must first be made. Its shape should be oblong along the rocker arm. A bolt will pass through it, onto which a lamb with handles should be screwed. The saw clamp is ready. If it becomes necessary to adjust the height, then the lamb is unscrewed, the saw is set along the ruler and the lamb is twisted back. When using a disc with a diameter of 400 mm, boards up to 240 mm wide can be processed (Fig. 3).
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Make other options
Figure 2. A piece of laminate should be attached to a wooden block, the angle of which should be 90 ° relative to the tabletop.
A do-it-yourself circular saw can be made in a manual version. The easiest way is to make it from a grinder, making some improvements to its design. On the grinder, you need to install an axial handle and a sliding stop.
To make a sliding stop, 2 pieces of a corner will be needed. They are located on the sides of the disk with teeth, which replaces the abrasive wheel. Corners are attached with a gap of 3-4 mm. Front and rear they are connected with bolts and nuts. Washers must be used to obtain clearance. The bottom edge of the corners must be rounded. Thanks to this, they will not cling to the processed objects.
A do-it-yourself circular saw from a grinder is equipped with a sliding stop. A clamp is attached to the body. It is made from metal tape. Its tie should be located below. A galvanized strip with a thickness of at least 1-1.5 mm is attached to the tape, on which you first need to make a hole for the sliding stop bolt. With the help of washers, gaps are established between the working part and the side parts of the stop. The gaps must be the same size.
An axial handle is attached to the gearbox housing. To do this, the gearbox is disassembled so that you can determine at what points to make 4 holes for small bolts. The handle is made from a piece of pipe or rod and must be in the form of a bracket. Its width is slightly wider than the master's palm. At the ends with which it will be attached to the gearbox, it is necessary to drill holes for the bolts. It is not worth flaring the ends of the tube so that the handle does not bend during operation.
A piece of rod or tube protruding forward should be fixed under the handle. Flare the end of the tube and make a hole for the axle with a thickness of 4-6 mm. The hole should be 4 mm larger. To make it convenient to work, a gap of at least 100-150 mm is left between the rod and the handle.
Figure 3. Scheme of a disk for a circular.
The next step is the manufacture of the adjusting rod. This will require a piece of rod with a diameter of 4-6 mm. The end of the pipe is bent in the form of a loop, slightly flared. Using washers at the front end of the stop, the same gap is set along the entire length.
The part of the rod that will fit into the hole on the handle must be threaded. Before inserting the rod, screw the nut onto it. Another nut is screwed on after assembly. Nuts will provide adjustment of the depth of cut. If necessary, they need to be released or tightened.
Which in the common people is called a circular, is a productive and convenient tool. It can be used to perform a huge number of tasks. Perhaps you own it or are just planning to purchase it. However, when cutting large batches of material, working with such a device is quite difficult. You can facilitate this process with the help of a table, which you can make yourself. This idea is easy to implement, and you need to prepare boards and plywood before starting work.
The hand saw is located at the bottom of the working surface, but its working disk is in the slot. After turning on the equipment, the disk rotates, and when the lumber is fed, the cutting process begins. The maximum thickness of the processed workpieces will depend on the power of the saw and the size of the blade. When choosing a tool, you should consider the thickness of the countertop on which it will be mounted.
Preparation of materials
If you decide to make a table for a circular saw with your own hands, then first you need to take care of the availability of some materials and tools, among them should be highlighted:
- board;
- drill;
- varnish for wood;
- pencil;
- ruler;
- plywood;
- bar;
- glue.
If you decide to start making a table yourself, you must have the skills to cut wood. As for plywood, its thickness should be 20 mm or more. When looking for a board, you should pay attention to the one whose dimensions are 50 x 100 mm. But the bar should have a square section with a side of 50 mm. You will need it for the legs.
You should also stock up on an electric jigsaw, a screwdriver and a manual milling cutter. Self-tapping screws will act as fasteners. After manufacturing, the structure will need to be varnished in order to extend its service life. Before you make a table for a circular saw with your own hands, you must decide on its dimensions, which will depend on the length of the workpieces being processed.
The cut will be smoother and more accurate if the workpiece rests on the entire plane of the table. However, the parameters of the working surface should not be too large, as the design will clutter up the space. It is necessary to come to the average value, but the height of the table is usually selected individually, it depends on the height of the operator.
By drawing a table for a circular saw, you can avoid many mistakes. If you still cannot decide on the dimensions of the work surface, then you can take the following parameters as a basis: 50x50x25 cm. They are suitable for a small workshop. You may need a switch and a socket, as well as a piece of electrical cable. However, this is true if you plan to upgrade electrical equipment.
Manufacturing technology
Using 20 mm plywood, you must make a blank for the countertop, while being guided by the selected dimensions. The canvas is marked with a marker and a ruler, and then sawn with an electric jigsaw. The edges must be processed with a milling cutter. The material is sanded.
On the underside of the tabletop, you need to make markings for the saw. To do this, the blade is turned over, and the saw should be installed without a disk at the intended location. So you can mark the parameters of the sole. Using a milling cutter, a recess is made in the tabletop in the range of 8 to 10 mm, while it is necessary to follow the seat that was marked in advance.
Work methodology
Making a table for a circular saw with your own hands, in the next step you can try on the saw and adjust its position if necessary. Then the attachment points are marked, as is the slot for the toothed disk. If the material is cut at different angles, then this moment must be taken into account when marking the slot. In this case, the hole will have a trapezoidal section, while the figure should be located with the top down.
At the bottom of the working surface, using a ruler and a pencil, you need to make markings for the stiffeners. The legs of the table will be fixed to them later. The ribs should be made from a board, the dimensions of which are 50 x 100 mm. These elements are located around the perimeter, however, they must be removed from the edges of the table by 10 cm.
The board should be attached to the surface and circled on both sides, then the center line is marked along the ruler, on which the screws will be located. From each edge of the rib, they must be removed by 5 cm, arranged in increments of 20 cm along the entire length. When making a table for a circular saw with your own hands, according to the marking, it is necessary to drill a hole through.
For longitudinal stiffeners, marking should be done by sawing the boards. They are fixed to the countertop with wood glue, and then pressed with clamps. In place, the side stiffeners are marked, they must be sawn and glued. The structure should be additionally tightened with self-tapping screws without removing the clamps. Holes are prepared for them from the outside so that the hats are completely recessed. The stiffeners are pulled together with self-tapping screws installed on each side. The clamp can be removed, which will allow you to understand how the countertop will look.
Leg manufacturing
When making a table for a hand-held circular saw, in the next step you can start making legs, for this, boards with dimensions equal to 50 x 100 mm are used. The legs must be made taking into account the fact that it was convenient to work. On average, this parameter reaches 110 cm. The board must be cut along the longitudinal axis, providing a small angle on one side.
The workpiece is tried on to the working surface so that during installation it stands a little apart. The legs are fixed on the outside of the elements to stiffen, bolts should be used for this. In order to achieve stability, you can use ties, they are made of a square bar with a side of 50 mm.
Saw installation
Circular saws with fastening to a table are very convenient in operation. The next step is to fix the tool. To do this, the sole is fixed on the bolts, while the working disk should look out into the slot. Marking is applied to the table, this will make it easier to cut. To protect against moisture and facilitate the sliding of workpieces, the table should be varnished in several layers.
Switching the saw on and off
When someone is ready, you can decide how the equipment will turn on and off. If you have the appropriate knowledge in the field of electrical engineering, then the power key can be shunted by you. The control button in this case is placed on the outer surface of the rib.
If you made a table for a hand-held circular saw with your own hands, but automating the operation of electrical equipment is too difficult for you, then the key can be pulled together with a wire, and the device itself can be turned on and off using a power cord. The above table design is quite simple. Any home craftsman can handle the task of manufacturing. If you want to expand the functionality, you can take care of security by making the design more complex.
Conclusion
A hand-held table-mounted circular saw can be a great tool for anyone who loves to work with wood. If you have to cut lumber quite often, then it is worth spending one day to make such a design that will last a long time and will increase productivity.
A homemade circular saw is one of the most necessary machines for a home craftsman, especially when building a house or a summer house. Branded stationary machines are very expensive, and for most home needs, a home-made simple design of woodworking equipment will do. There are many ways - how to make a circular saw with your own hands from a hand-held circular saw, a grinder, an old electric motor, and even from a drill. What is needed for this and how to assemble a table for a circular saw with minimal cost is described below.
Circular saw table
The circular table must be stable. Swinging during operation is very disturbing and can be dangerous. An old kitchen table or a prefabricated structure made of wooden blocks or a metal profile is suitable as a frame. An important part of the bed is a flat, wide surface with a slot for the saw blade. It is made from an iron sheet of at least 4 mm, fiberglass board, plexiglass, plywood, chipboard, or a combination of them. In any case, the thickness of the table top must be suitable for the load that it will undergo during operation. It should be borne in mind that the drive in some home-made circulars is attached precisely to the cover, so it is better to make it lifting, as shown in the photo. This will avoid complicating the design of the bed and will facilitate access to the power tool.
The guide bar is usually made from a corner, which is attached to the plate with clamps each time a new size is set. You can make a sliding bar, as seen in the picture. In this case, the table top must have strictly parallel sides for sliding, and the guide bar is perpendicular to the plane of rotation of the circular saw. This is very convenient, but needs a little tweaking. Sliding sleds are made from a steel or aluminum angle, which should slide freely around the edges without losing a right angle. An option with a wooden sled is possible, but this makes the machine bed more bulky and less durable.
Circular from a grinder, hand circular saw, drill
Many do not have the opportunity to assemble a homemade circular with a powerful electric motor, belt drive and pulley system. But for sure there will be at least one of such power tools as a hand-held circular saw, grinder or drill. On any of them you can put a cut-off circular saw, they are compact and can be used as an electric drive for cutting not very thick boards. As noted above, such tools are best attached to the table top from below. The most convenient in this regard is a hand-held circular saw, because. it has the maximum size of the useful part of the cutting disc, while the case of a drill and a grinder does not allow using the entire area of \u200b\u200bthe saw. Plus, the thickness of the lid covers part of the disk. Therefore, you can put a saw with a larger diameter or use other technical solutions. The figure shows possible way fastening the power tool to the bed using plastic clamps.
Pendulum circular with a powerful electric motor
A homemade circular saw is designed to cut wood of the thickness for which the electric drive is designed. If you need to process thick bars, you will have to install a powerful electric motor, mount a belt drive and a shaft. In this case, it is advisable to make a pendulum bed, as shown in the figure. The frame is completely stationary, welded from steel corners. It houses the entire twisting and cutting mechanism. One side of the frame is suspended from the frame, and the other side is height-adjustable using a screw mechanism. This scheme allows you to adjust the height of the saw blade overhang without much effort and unnecessary design difficulties.
