wood stoves are actively used for heating premises for various purposes - these can be living rooms, outbuildings, garages and much more. Gas can be carried out far from everywhere, which supports the demand for solid fuel units. After all, firewood is a fairly cheap source of heat, and in some cases completely free. If we make a long-burning stove with our own hands and install it indoors, then we will have at our disposal an easy-to-use unit.
In this review, we will look at:
- The principle of operation of long-burning furnaces;
- Their advantages and disadvantages;
- the most efficient designs of wood stoves;
- how to make a good stove with your own hands.
After reviewing the information provided and homemade drawings, you can independently assemble a slow-burning stove for a garage, cottage, outbuilding and any other buildings.
Design features of furnaces
A long-burning stove is convenient because it can burn on one load of firewood several times longer than traditional stoves and fireplaces. This is directly related to its design features - it is endowed with a large firebox, and some of them burn wood under certain conditions, with minimal access of oxygen to the combustion chamber and subsequent combustion of pyrolysis gases.
Sealing the seams will exclude the possibility of ingress of combustion products into the heated room.
Long-burning stoves are endowed with large fireboxes - a large amount of firewood and other types of warm fuel are placed here. Due to this, the frequency of approaches for laying fuel is reduced. Classic stoves and boilers with miniature combustion chambers require new portions every 2-3 hours. In the daytime, this can still be put up with, but at night a person wants to sleep, and not bother with laying firewood.
Worst of all, if everyone works during the day - there is simply no one to put logs in the oven. During this time, the temperature in the heated rooms will become quite low, so the evening will have to be devoted not to rest, but to kindling in order to create comfortable conditions. However, at night you will have to do the same thing as during the day - to throw more and more portions of logs into the insatiable firebox of a wood-burning stove.
The principle of operation of a long-burning furnace depends on its design:
- Units with a large firebox - their long work is due to the use of large combustion chambers, where a lot of firewood is loaded;
- Pyrolysis units - here solid fuel burns with a minimum amount of oxygen and forms pyrolysis gas;
- Units without pyrolysis, but with a limitation in the intensity of combustion, are “boubafonya” furnaces from a barrel, which have a simple, but very original device.
The furnaces themselves can be made from a variety of materials - stone, refractory bricks or metal.
The key to a longer burning of your stove is the use of normal firewood, and not rotten logs with a low calorific value. Beech, oak, hornbeam and some varieties of fruit trees burn the longest.
Advantages and disadvantages
Let's look at the main pros and cons of homemade heating stoves prolonged burning. Let's start, as usual, with the positive features:
Compactness and relative mobility are the main advantages of stoves.
- Cheapness - most often they are assembled from cheap sheet metal, capacious gas cylinders, barrels and much more. All this can be found at the ruins and at old enterprises. Some people can rummage in their garage or barn - for sure there will be unnecessary metal for a home-made long-burning stove;
- Easy to assemble - no one requires ultra-precise following of the chosen scheme. For example, all the same pyrolysis stove-potbelly stove can have a variety of sizes;
- High Efficiency - A properly assembled long-burning stove can provide heat to large rooms without requiring frequent refills.
There are also certain disadvantages:
- Not the most attractive appearance - homemade products really cannot please users with good external data;
- Some types of stoves cannot be used in residential premises - the same “bubafonya” will smoke and stink great before it enters the operating mode;
- A long-burning stove with a water circuit will be difficult to implement - you need to somehow ensure the intake of heat into the heating circuit.
Despite some obvious shortcomings, home-made long-burning wood-burning stoves are in some demand.
A long-burning stove is an excellent unit for heating greenhouses. It is expensive or impossible to heat them with electricity or gas, and by buying cheap firewood, you can provide greenhouses with life-giving heat for the whole winter.
Varieties of long-burning stoves
If you have planned to build a long-burning stove with your own hands, you have all the tools and you are not afraid of difficulties, then the information from the next section of our review will certainly come in handy - in it we will talk about the types of these stoves.
The simplest of all stoves is a potbelly stove. It is an iron stove assembled from an old gas cylinder or from sheet metal. In order to ensure long-term combustion, its internal volume is made very large - this is most easily implemented in sheet steel models, you just need to choose a drawing that is suitable in size.
Such a stove can work on wood, on coal, as well as on compressed solid fuel. It is easy to use, easy to melt and gives a large amount of heat. She is also characterized by unpretentiousness. If you need a simple stove for a summer residence, feel free to choose a potbelly stove - it will be the easiest and most affordable option.
This option is good because we can implement long burning in it and work on the design. The network contains drawings of similar stoves with large combustion chambers and afterburners - these are the so-called pyrolysis units. They burn not only fuel, but also gases formed during the pyrolysis process.. A brick unit will turn out to be bulky, but very effective. Here are its advantages:
- Long-term preservation of heat through the use of brick or stone;
- Excellent appearance - just find a suitable project and make a neat masonry;
- The ability to work in residential areas, in contrast to the same "bubafoni".
The disadvantage is that the assembly of such a long-burning stove will require experience in bricklaying.
The presented long-burning stove has an impressive size, works on wood and is distinguished by an extremely simple design - depending on the volume, it can burn up to 20-24 hours, without requiring frequent approaches for laying firewood. To make it, you will need a pair of metal containers with lids (barrels of 100-200 liters are suitable), pipes for the chimney and air supply, as well as a channel to create a weighted piston.
The long-burning stove "Bubafonya" is most often used to heat non-residential buildings - these are garages, greenhouses with garden crops growing in them, technical premises and utility rooms. Some craftsmen equip it with heating circuits, which allows you to heat living rooms without the risk of filling them with acrid smoke.
Self-made oven
Let's figure out how to make a long-burning stove with your own hands, using the available materials and the right tool. We will make "boubafonya" and potbelly stove, after which we will consider the question of how to modernize our home-made equipment.
We make a potbelly stove
Long-burning stoves of potbelly stoves are good because they are made from any available materials - these are various barrels, old roomy cans, pieces of large-diameter pipes, or just sheet metal. We chose sheet steel as the starting material - it is a more convenient material in processing. You can adapt a barrel for this, but doing work in its internal volume is not very convenient.
All sizes are presented more as guidelines, some average best option. You, in turn, can deviate from the dimensions of the parts to create a stove that meets your specific wishes.
The design of the long-burning furnace is quite clear from the above drawing. Here are its main nodes:
- Combustion chamber - firewood burns in it with the formation of pyrolysis gas;
- Afterburner - in it the combustion of pyrolysis products occurs;
- Doors of the combustion chamber and ash pan - they are purchased at the store, but they can be made with your own hands;
- Chimney - in most cases it is a pipe with a diameter of 100-150 mm.
You can deviate from the drawing in one direction or another. But remember that with a decrease in size, the burning time decreases and the power of the long-burning furnace decreases.
The lower the power, the smaller the heated area. Therefore, it is best to provide a small margin.
For the manufacture of a long-burning furnace such as a potbelly stove, we need sheet steel with a thickness of at least 3 mm - this will ensure a long service life of heating equipment. If the steel is thin, it will begin to burn through - after a couple of seasons, holes form in it. Therefore, the thickness of the steel is given Special attention. The optimal thickness value is 3-5 mm.
For our example, we will take the classic scheme of a potbelly stove, refine it and get at our disposal an efficient stove for a wood-fired house. On the initial stage we prepare side sheets - in our drawing they have dimensions of 450x450 mm. Next, we make the lower walls, front and rear walls - their dimensions are 200x450 mm. As a result, we should get a rectangular box. But do not rush to weld it together - there is a lot of work ahead.
First you need to make a base - this is the bottom wall and two side ones. We weld them together, at a height of 80 mm from the bottom we weld the grate. Now we need to prepare the front wall of the long-term heating furnace - we weld both doors into it, after which we weld it to our structure.
We prepare two metal sheets measuring 200x370 mm. We weld the first of them to the front and side walls at a height of 160 mm from the top. Next, we prepare the back wall - we weld small metal tubes into it, which should enter the space between the two inner sheets that form the afterburner chamber - secondary air will be supplied through them. Then we weld the back wall and the second metal sheet at a height of 80 from the top (welded to the side and back walls).
The damper is used to regulate air flow. It is he who increases the efficiency and quality of traction.
Our do-it-yourself long-burning stove is almost ready - it remains to deal with the top cover. In it we make a hole with a diameter of 100 mm and weld a piece of pipe for the future chimney. Now it remains to find out whether you need a hob or not - it is also welded into the top cover. At the last stage, we put the cover in place and weld it - the stove is ready, now it can be installed on a non-combustible base, attach a chimney and start it up.
When starting the long-term combustion furnace presented above, let it flare up, then cover the blower so that the firewood barely smolders and the generation of pyrolysis gas begins.
Another interesting long-burning pyrolysis furnace is shown in the following figure. It is made from a barrel or a piece of large diameter pipe and is supplied with a suitable lid. In the lower part, at a distance of 80-100 mm from the bottom, a metal disk with a hole in the middle is welded. Between the disk and the bottom, on the side wall, a door is welded. The resulting space forms our firebox. In the upper part we weld a chimney with a diameter of 70-100 mm.
In terms of low cost of use, such a stove is a real gift, since there is no shortage of sawdust in a private house.
The resulting long-burning furnace receives heat by burning pyrolysis gases generated by heating sawdust. The sawdust itself is poured into the main volume, and so that they do not wake up in the furnace, they are rammed with a wooden cone. When the furnace is started, a fire is made in the furnace, the cone is removed - after a while the unit will begin to produce heat.
We make a bubafonya
If you make a stove for heating premises for household or technical purposes, you should pay attention to the stove under the slightly ridiculous name "bubafonya". It has a simple but original design that provides a lot of thermal energy. It works like this:
- The lid is removed, firewood is loaded (small chips are placed on top);
- On top of the firewood and in the gaps between them, rags soaked in kerosene are placed;
- The rag is set on fire and sets fire to the firewood;
- A piston is installed in the furnace, the lid closes - the unit begins to generate heat.
In order to understand the essence of this unusual long-burning furnace, you just need to look at its diagram. The unit consists of three main parts - a body, a chimney, a heavy piston and a cover.
This picture clearly demonstrates the scheme and principle of operation of "bubafoni".
"Bubafonya" is simple in execution, the easiest way is to build it from two whole metal barrels (without holes) with a volume of 150-200 liters. Thick steel is not particularly needed here, because due to the limitation of oxygen supply, combustion will be slow and low-temperature. Let's see how to make such a long-burning stove with your own hands. There you are step-by-step instruction:
- We cut off the lid from the main barrel, prepare the combustion chamber;
- We weld a piece of pipe with a diameter of 100-150 mm into the side wall of the combustion chamber (in the upper part, according to the figure) - this will be the chimney;
- We prepare the top cover - we make a hole in it with a width of 40-50 mm, through which the piston pipe will pass. We bend the edges of the lid with gentle blows of the canvas outward, we knock the edges of the barrel (combustion chamber) inward - the lid should fit tightly on our barrel;
- We are preparing the piston of our long-burning furnace - we take a pipe with a diameter of about 40-50 mm (it should go into a hole in the lid), weld the lid from the second barrel to it from below, and the pipe itself cannot be welded - air will pass through it. We weld pieces of a thick L-shaped channel to the bottom of the piston cover so that the piston itself is as massive as possible. The diameter of the piston itself should be such that it can be easily inserted into the combustion chamber (between the walls and the piston there should be gaps about 5 mm wide through which combustion products will exit).
Our self-made long-burning stove is ready - it remains only to install it on a non-combustible base and test it. How this stove is set on fire is described a little higher.
Some models of these long-burning stoves work on one load of firewood for up to 20-24 hours or more, generating a large amount of heat.
Increasing efficiency
Additional sheets of iron can be replaced by a wall made of bricks. It heats up more slowly, but it gives off heat longer.
The long-burning furnaces we have considered are distinguished by their high efficiency - the fuel in them burns slowly, and in the same potbelly stove, pyrolysis gases are also produced, which provide additional heat. Let's now figure out how to increase the efficiency of our self-assembly equipment. In all three stoves, we can increase the thickness of the metal - thus, it will accumulate heat in itself and slowly release it into the environment. The easiest way to do this is with sheet metal potbelly stoves, choosing thicker steel.
We can also equip all three furnaces with long horizontal chimney sections. The thing is that any solid fuel stoves (including long-term combustion) send a large amount of heat into the atmosphere. Having equipped the chimney with a long horizontal section, we will leave part of this heat in the room - the approximate length of the section is 3-4 meters.
Long burning solid fuel stoves are becoming more and more popular. This is not surprising - ceteris paribus, such a furnace is able to operate on one load of fuel for a much longer time than its conventional counterparts.
At the same time, a long-burning stove can be fired with wood, coal, and various waste products from the woodworking industry. An additional advantage of the unit in question is the possibility of self-assembly.
- High rates of efficiency.
- Long work on one bookmark of fuel.
- The possibility of automating the operation of the furnace.
- High efficiency with excellent performance.
Long-burning furnaces are devoid of almost all the shortcomings of their conventional counterparts. In fact, in such units, the fuel does not burn, but slowly smolders, which allows you to increase the life of the stove on one tab of fuel.
As a result, the owner has much more free time - during operation, the oven does not require special control and constant monitoring.
Proceed to self-assembly of a long-burning stove. Start by preparing the necessary fixtures.
Work set
- Metal barrel. A 200 liter barrel is best suited. The container must have sufficiently thick walls. Check that the drum has no signs of corrosion or other significant damage. Instead of a barrel, you can use a piece of thick-walled pipe of a suitable size. Also, the furnace body can be made of sheet steel.
- Steel pipe. You will need to cut it into two segments of different lengths.
- Channel.
- Steel hammer.
- Various measuring devices.
- Mallet.
- Hacksaw for metal.
- Axe.
- Red brick.
- Steel sheet.
- building mix.
- Apparatus for welding and electrodes.
Kiln Making Guide
Set yourself up in advance that the work of making the furnace will be quite dirty and noisy. Therefore, the oven is best assembled on the street, in a garage, workshop or other suitable place. Living quarters are definitely not suitable for such work.
Also, make sure that there is an opportunity to connect to the mains at the place of work.
First step
Prepare the barrel for making the body. Cut off the top of the container. The Bulgarian will help you with this. Instead of a grinder, you can use an autogen or another suitable cutter. Cut neatly and accurately, the cut off part will be used in the future.
In the absence of a barrel, make the case from a different material. For example, you can take a piece of pipe with a large diameter. Weld a round bottom made of steel with a thickness of 6 mm or more to it. If desired, the bottom can be made square - this will allow you to install the stove without welding additional supports.
Weld 4 legs to the bottom of the case. They can be made from rebar scraps, channel bars or other suitable materials.
Second step
cut out steel sheet a circle. Its diameter should be slightly smaller than the diameter of the stove body. In this circle, cut another circle to place the pipe. The optimal pipe diameter is 100 mm.
Weld a piece of pipe to the cut steel circle. The length of this pipe should be 150-200 mm longer than the height of the boiler body.
Third step
Weld the sections of the channel from the bottom of the resulting steel "pancake". They must be of such length that they can be freely placed inside the case. In total, weld 4 pieces at an equal distance along the diameter of the steel circle.
In the future, thanks to these channels, the loaded fuel will be pressed down and consumed as efficiently as possible.
Fourth step
Make a lid for the oven. At this stage, the top of the barrel cut off earlier will come in handy. If the oven is made from a pipe or other materials, the cover will have to be made independently from a steel sheet.
In the lid, cut a hole for the pipe previously welded to the “pancake”.
Fifth step
Cut a hole in the barrel body for loading fuel. Attach the door to the hole. You can make it yourself or buy it in a specialized store. Do not forget to weld the handle to the homemade door.
Below the hole in the firebox, make another hole a little smaller and also complete it with a door. Through the bottom hole you can remove the remnants of burnt fuel.
At this point, your homemade solid fuel stove is almost ready. It remains only to equip the foundation for it and connect the chimney.
Arrangement of the foundation for installing the furnace
In the process of heating the furnace, its body will heat up to very high temperatures, so the base for installing the unit must be as resistant as possible to such conditions.
The finished furnace weighs relatively little, so it is not necessary to deepen the foundation much. However, at the same time, the base must be strong and fireproof.
The procedure for arranging the foundation:
- prepare a small recess;
- lay out the bottom of the pit with a brick in one layer;
- pour cement mortar over the brickwork.
Installation of a flue pipe
Any stove, the principle of operation of which is based on the combustion of any fuel, needs a chimney arrangement.
The chimney can be made from an ordinary metal pipe with a diameter of 150 mm. This is the most optimal size. With a larger diameter, the thrust will be excessively strong, which will negatively affect the efficiency of the heating unit. With a smaller diameter, the chimney may simply not be able to cope with its task.
First, a small straight piece of pipe is welded to a pre-prepared hole in the barrel body. It is important that its length is greater than the diameter of the unit body.
The main part of the chimney is usually made curved. It is undesirable for the bend to exceed 45 degrees. Try to assemble the chimney with the least number of bends.
In places where the chimney crosses various building elements, arrange insulation from refractory materials, for example, from asbestos.
Place a cap on the top edge of the chimney to keep out debris, snow, and other precipitation.
Make a collapsible chimney - it will be easier to clean it.
Reflector device
During operation, a long-burning metal furnace will heat up very strongly. Therefore, it is better to equip it with a protective screen, especially if the stove is placed in a small room.
If the reflector is made of brick, it will contribute to some increase in the efficiency of the furnace.
The metal cools down at about the same rate as it heats up. A brick screen laid around the furnace will accumulate heat during the operation of the heating unit and, for a certain time, give the accumulated energy to the surrounding space even after the completion of the furnace furnace.
Usually the furnace is lined on three sides, the back wall is equipped as desired, there is no need to lay out the upper wall.
In arrangement protective screen it will not make much sense if you plan to install the stove not directly in the heated room, but in a separate boiler room.
How to fire up the oven?
A variety of fuels are suitable for a long-burning furnace.
First, it is coal and wood. It is important that the firewood has a low moisture level.
Secondly, the furnace of such a furnace can be carried out using a variety of waste and processed products from the woodworking industry. For example, pellets are well suited.
For the manufacture of pellets, you can use almost any organic mass: straw, onion and garlic husks, sawdust, wood chips, cones, nut shells, citrus peels, bark, sunflower husks and many other materials. Pellets are produced by dry pressing of raw materials at elevated temperatures.
Important technical details
To make your homemade stove as safe and efficient as possible, remember the following simple guidelines and follow them when carrying out stove assembly activities:
Before putting the oven into continuous operation, try a few different modes work. As a result, you can choose the best option and use the stove with maximum efficiency and economy.
Successful work!
Video - Do-it-yourself long-burning furnaces
The owners of private houses often face the question of efficient and long-term space heating at low fuel costs. To combine all these criteria in one furnace, you will need to purchase expensive heating equipment. What to do if such a source of heat is needed, but there is not enough finance? There is a way out of this situation: you can independently make a long-burning furnace. All that is required is the material at hand, skills in working with a welding machine or experience as a bricklayer.
What is a long-burning furnace, where is it used, its advantages and disadvantages
Table: advantages and disadvantages of long-burning stoves
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Types of long-burning furnaces and their choice for self-production
These ovens are usually made of bricks, metal or stone. They can be round, cylindrical, square or irregular in shape. Depending on their design and the method of burning fuel, long-burning stoves differ in types.
Classic long burning stove
The design, in which the flame spreads from the bottom up, pushing the burning gases through the layers of furnace material, is a classic. This type of furnace is equipped with a heat exchanger and an afterburner chamber, into which an additional portion of air is supplied. Prominent representatives of this type are long-burning furnaces: buleryan (breneran), Butakov's furnace, as well as modified designs with different heat exchangers.
In Buleryan furnaces, the role of a heat exchanger is performed by curved pipes located inside the furnace body
Long burning shaft furnace
Another type of such structures is a shaft furnace. In this design, the combustion zone is shifted to the grate part. The products of fuel combustion are removed through the adjacent compartment, in which they burn out, creating heat exchange. This type is best built from brick, which has been confirmed for many centuries.
In shaft-type furnaces, the combustion zone is located directly above the grate
Deck oven
This is a design with upper combustion, in which the upper part of the furnace material is set on fire, and the direction of fire is carried out in the opposite direction. Such a device requires the supply of oxygen under the burnt layer, so the furnace must contain special air delivery channels. Simplicity of design, combined with efficiency and functionality, has contributed to the creation of many DIY options. In this case, used cylindrical containers will serve as the material for its manufacture. A striking example of this type of heating units is a stove called "bubafonya".
As a housing for a homemade stove, you can use an old gas cylinder
Gas generating furnaces
Gas generating furnaces or facilities with additional combustion of pyrolysis gases. In this design, the furnace material burns out under the influence of two factors: high temperature and a small amount of oxygen. This leads to the release of combustible gases, which burn out in additional camera. The designs of this type of furnaces are the most difficult to manufacture, but their efficiency and ease of use are superior to previous options.
Pyrolysis gases burn out in an additional chamber above the firebox
The design of the furnace, its features and principle of operation
Before proceeding with the independent manufacture of the furnace, it is necessary to carefully study all the characteristics of the device.
If it is planned to make a unit for heating a large room, then the furnace must have a high heat output. For example, for a house or room with an area of 150 m², you should choose a stove designed for heating up to 200 m². This "reserve" of power is necessary for complete confidence that every corner of the house will be warm.
It should also be taken into account that not every room is adjacent to a heat source, so it will take more time and power of the heating device to heat it.
If it is designed to heat a room with an area of 30–50 m², then the stove can be made without the specified “reserve”. In such a small room, heat leakage will be minimal, so a unit with a small capacity is sufficient. Automatic refueling will greatly simplify its maintenance. In the manufacture of such an oven, hobs for cooking can be provided on its body. If the stove is not only a source of heat, but also an interior item, then windows can be made of refractory glass in its body.
Design features of long-burning furnaces
Long-burning heaters have design features that distinguish them from other stoves:
- the combustion chamber has a volume for loading a large amount of combustible material;
- the body of long-burning furnaces is equipped with a large door;
- the furnace compartment in the furnace body is divided into two chambers; one chamber is designed for smoldering combustible material, the second - for gas combustion;
- the design of such a furnace provides for the presence of a special chipper, which prevents the flame from entering the chimney;
- this element of the furnace frame is made of a metal plate, which is welded in the upper part of the furnace compartment.
Differences between conventional and pyrolysis oven
To understand the principle of operation of a long-burning furnace, you need to compare it with the operation of a conventional furnace.
The work of a conventional stove is to heat its surface and release heat into the room. The combustion material is ignited from below, which causes the flame to spread to the sides, heading up. This is due to the access of a large amount of air into the combustion chamber. The fuel in such a furnace burns out quickly, which is why the air temperature in the room is unstable - it either drops or rises.
The principle of operation of a long-burning furnace is different. Firewood is ignited from above, and the fire spreads down, while air is supplied only to the place of combustion. As a result, the material smolders, evenly releasing heat over a long period of time. In addition to the combustion material, pyrolysis gas is released, which also serves as a fuel, additionally creating heat.
In a conventional furnace, fuel burns quickly, in a pyrolysis furnace it slowly smolders.
For the manufacture of furnaces, you can use almost any improvised means. In our next article, you will learn how to make a long-burning potbelly stove from a barrel:.
Necessary materials and tools
For the manufacture of a long-burning furnace, the following materials will be required:
- a metal barrel from fuel and lubricants with a capacity of 200 liters; as an alternative material, you can use a steel pipe of the diameter corresponding to the drawing or an empty gas cylinder with a capacity of 50 to 100 liters; you can also use sheet steel with a thickness of 3 mm;
- for the manufacture of an air supply channel, a pipe with a diameter of at least 50 mm is required;
- for the chimney, a piece of pipe with a diameter of 100 mm is required;
- steel channel or a piece of a corner with a shelf width of 55–65 mm;
- the air distributor will require a metal sheet of at least 3–5 mm, with a diameter slightly larger than the body circumference;
- for the manufacture of the cover, a steel sheet with a thickness of at least 3–5 mm is required;
- metal hinges for the door;
- if the furnace body is equipped with a water circuit, then sheet steel and two threaded pipes are required.
Tools, without which you can not do in the manufacture of such a furnace, are:
- welding machine, electrodes;
- Bulgarian;
- file;
- electric drill;
- drills for metal of various diameters (including core drills);
- a hammer;
- an anvil or other stable hard surface;
- yardstick;
- building level;
- pencil.
Calculation of the main parameters
Long burning furnace solid fuel can be made from improvised materials, such as: a used gas cylinder, a piece of a large steel pipe or a metal barrel. A material with a wall thickness of at least 5 mm should be selected. This is due to the fact that a smaller thickness of the case will burn out after a while.
A variant of the "bubafonya" furnace with a water jacket
Furnace size
In the absence of any drawings and diagrams for the manufacture of the furnace, you can do all the necessary calculations yourself.
calculation of parameters in the furnace "Bubafonya"
In this case, it would be more accurate to talk about its diameter - D and height - H. These values \u200b\u200bshould be proportional to each other, where a ratio ranging from 1:3 to 1:5 is considered optimal. The height of the furnace is usually made at least 100 cm, since this parameter is directly related to the duration of the unit. However, it is not worth making a structure that is too high, as it will be inconvenient to load it with firewood. It can also negatively affect traction. It may decrease so much that the maintained flame inside the combustion chamber will go out.
As numerous thermal engineering studies have shown, it is not worth making a furnace with a small diameter. From this narrow unit, the air will simply be pulled into the chimney, which will significantly reduce the power of the furnace.
If the furnace frame is made too wide, then there will be no uniform combustion of fuel near the inner walls of the chamber and in the middle of the hearth. In this case, only the central part of the furnace material will burn out. The metal circle of the piston will sag and clog the hearth, as a result of which the flame will go out. The optimal diameter of this design is from 300 to 900 mm.
Thickness of material used
This criterion must be taken into account, since the thin walls of the case will burn out after a while. In this regard, it is necessary to select a material with a thickness of at least 5 mm. This is especially important if it is planned to equip the frame with a water jacket, turning it into a boiler. In the image, the wall thickness is indicated by the symbol Δ.
If you use material with a wall thickness of up to 4–5 mm, then this is fraught with the fact that the furnace will lose its power. Due to the thin walls of the housing, the temperature above the piston pancake will drop. As a result, the afterburning of pyrolysis gases will decrease, and, consequently, the generated heat will decrease.
However, for heating small spaces, such as a garage, barn or small workshop, the thickness of such a material is quite acceptable.
Metal plate parameters
For the efficient operation of the furnace, not only the diameter of the round plate on the piston is important, but also its thickness. After all, a metal pancake is a partition and at the same time a heating surface for igniting pyrolysis gases.
When making a metal pancake, you should adhere to optimal size. The distance from its outer edge to the inner wall of the furnace should be 5%. In the image, this gap is indicated as the formula C \u003d 5% D.
The diameter of the metal pancake should be slightly smaller than the inner diameter of the furnace body
Outlet parameters
In the image, the diameter of the chimney pipe is marked with the letter S. It is recommended that its diameter be at least 80 mm.
Air supply pipe dimensions
In the diagram, its diameter is indicated by the letter d. For the construction of such a furnace, a pipe of 75 or 80 mm can be used. The pipe must be welded to a metal circle (into its hole in the middle). The result is a part called a piston.
Another option for a long-burning stove is Bubofonya. Description of the principle of operation, calculation of materials, as well as step-by-step installation instructions in our article:.
Preparatory work and selection of the installation site of the furnace
If the furnace will be made of sheet steel, then it is necessary to cut it into blanks in accordance with the drawing:
- cut the same fragments from the corners, which will serve as a grate;
- for the manufacture of stands and handles for the case, you can also use metal corners;
- it is also necessary to pre-cut the pipes.
The place for installing a long-burning stove is selected with the condition that, when assembled, it is not installed closer than 100 cm to the wall.
Since the furnace body will be completely heated, it is necessary to take care of the insulating material in advance. To do this, you can build a stand out of brick, which should be 30 cm larger than the base of the case. Alternatively, steel bars or corners can be welded to the furnace frame.
At the installation site, on the side of the door to the combustion chamber, it is necessary to lay insulating material. As such, a basalt or asbestos layer is used, on top of which a steel sheet with an area of 100 cm is placed.
The walls next to the stove must be finished with insulating material
Do-it-yourself long-burning stove: diagram and step-by-step instructions
The most common materials for the manufacture of long-burning furnaces are metal and brick.
Making a bubafonya furnace from a gas cylinder
For self-production of the bubafonya furnace, a used gas cylinder with a volume of 50 liters is best suited. The order of work is as follows:
Video: how to make a bubafonya oven from a gas cylinder
Making a long-burning brick oven
Of course, in comparison with a home-made metal structure, a brick oven looks more advantageous. However, her independent production- the process is time-consuming, requiring certain skills and time.
Above the combustion chamber hob for cooking food
Foundation preparation
Since the brickwork is quite massive, a solid foundation is required for the stove. The depth of the foundation must ensure the stability of the structure. Foundation preparation is as follows:
- First you need to dig a small pit 30 cm deep. Its width and length should be 10 cm more than the estimated dimensions of the furnace.
- Level the bottom of the pit and cover with roofing felt or other insulating material.
- Pour a layer of sand 10 cm thick on top, which must be compacted.
- Pour a layer of fine gravel of the same thickness on top of the sand cushion.
- For the reliability of the base, it can be reinforced with a metal grate. For this, reinforcing bars are used, interconnected by wire. The width of the lattice cells should be no more than 10 cm. The thickness of the rods is selected in the range from 8 to 12 mm.
- Lay the grate in the pit so that it does not touch the bottom. For this under metal carcass lay down bricks.
- Pour concrete mix brand M-200 or M-250. Concrete must completely cover the metal frame.
For reliability, the foundation can be reinforced with a metal grate
After a few days, when the base hardens, you can proceed to brickwork long burning stoves. Before starting construction work, it is necessary to soak the brick for a day in water. This must be done so that the brick laid in rows does not draw moisture from the mixture. Bricks should be laid as follows:
- The first and second row must be laid out in continuous layers.
- An ash pan will be installed on the second row, so you need to provide a place for the door.
- On the fifth row, an overlap is installed above the door. Subsequently, a drying chamber box will be installed in it.
- The sixth and seventh rows are designed to accommodate the grate and install the door into the combustion chamber.
- From the eighth to the tenth row, a firebox will be placed. During the laying of the combustion chamber, it is necessary to use fire-resistant material - fireclay bricks. Use clay-based mixtures as a masonry adhesive. Ready-made mixtures intended for laying furnaces go on sale.
- The eleventh row serves as the ceiling of the combustion chamber and forms the area for the chimney. On top of this row, it is necessary to lay steel reinforcement and fill it with a cement mixture.
- On the twelfth row, a place is formed for the hob.
- Starting from the thirteenth - fourteenth row, rows for the chimney are laid. Its height is made according to individual projects, so the number of rows can be increased several times.
The procedure for laying bricks for a long-burning stove with a hob
Video: long-burning brick oven modeled on a children's constructor
How to upgrade a long-burning stove yourself
To make a homemade oven less of a hassle, it can be improved.
Modernization of the furnace "Bubafonya"
The weight of the bubafonya furnace structure usually reaches 150–170 kg. This creates an inconvenience, since it must be turned over to clean it of ash and other combustion residues. To avoid this, you can improve the design by making holes with doors in it. However, it should be noted that the peculiarity of such a furnace is precisely in the absence of extra slots through which air can penetrate. Therefore, in the manufacture of doors, their careful sealing in the closed position will be required. This can be achieved by welding metal flanges and seals to the hull.
Air draft in the combustion chamber will improve if the number and shape of the ribs on the round piston plate of the structure are changed. To do this, instead of segments of the channel, steel plates must be welded. At the same time, they should have a slight bend along the entire length of the part. This shape will allow the incoming air to swirl, which will be evenly distributed in the combustion chamber. To obtain the desired effect, 6 to 8 plates are sufficient.
Curved piston fins help improve traction
Modernization of a brick oven
A long-burning brick oven will take much less space if its design will resemble the shape of a triangle and be placed in the corner of the room. The order of such a design will require less building material and, accordingly, financial investments.
The brick version of the long-burning stove can be upgraded with a separate damper to switch between winter and summer heating modes. In the autumn-spring period, when there are no frosts, but the air is saturated with dampness, this damper will help make the heating not too hot.
An additional damper will make heating more comfortable
Features of the operation of a long-burning furnace
The functionality and efficiency of these heaters depends on the correct operation of them:
- to reduce the rate of fuel combustion, it is necessary to reduce the amount of air entering the combustion chamber;
- to avoid the occurrence of condensate in the pipe, it is necessary to calculate the exact number of revolutions and eliminate unnecessary bends;
- it is desirable that the moisture content of the loaded solid fuel does not exceed 20–25%;
- during the operation of the furnace, do not open the door of the combustion chamber, as carbon monoxide will enter the room;
- 3-4 times a month it is necessary to heat the stove in the maximum mode; this will help to burn all the slags that have accumulated on the walls of the furnace;
- during the cleaning furnace, it is recommended to use alder firewood; this wood does not emit strong heat and sedimentary burning;
- The efficiency of the stove will increase if you put large logs of firewood into it.
By learning how to make a long-burning stove with your own hands, you can get not only a source of heat, but also save cash. Having gained valuable experience in the construction of long-burning stoves, you can help not only friends and acquaintances, but also make it a source of income.
The high cost of gas and electricity makes it necessary to look for alternative heating options. Traditional Russian solid fuel stoves are not the best way out because of their voracity. Attention is drawn to developments that can run on a small amount of the cheapest fuel with high heat transfer.
Why are long burning stoves so economical?
Heating devices of this kind include a long-burning stove. In them, the fuel does not actually burn, but smolders, once having laid a portion, you can warm up for about 18 hours without throwing it up. Automatic feeders are not required. Fuel is consumed in a minimal amount and in a variety of ways, including junk like chips, sawdust. But the devices are also able to work on wood, coal with good heat transfer, consuming several times less.
The factory stove, called a potbelly stove, quickly burns fuel, heating the room in a short time, but also cools down quickly. In order to maintain heat in the room, it is necessary to constantly throw up fuel, which is not always convenient, it consumes a lot. Products are sold in which the combustion process is delayed for a longer period. However, their cost is quite significant, they are not without drawbacks: low efficiency, it is often necessary to manually add fuel.
The reason for the low efficiency lies in the direct access of oxygen, the free emission of combustion products. There are other combustion problems:
- 1. Burning is fast, it is difficult to control the process. In the furnace, there is a strong increase in temperature, the metal burns out over time.
- 2. Fuel does not burn completely, especially household garbage, small waste. The room smells of smoke, hot metal.
- 3. You have to load the stove with fuel every hour, otherwise it will go out and cool quickly.
The long burning furnace is devoid of these shortcomings, so its efficiency is much higher.
How do long burning stoves work?
There are many designs of long-burning furnaces, but they all work on the same principle. Heat is obtained not in the process of open combustion, but as a result of pyrolysis. Under the influence of high temperature, the fuel smolders, combustible gases are released. They ignite and burn, releasing a lot of heat. The slow combustion process occurs by regulating the supply of oxygen. When the fuel flares up, the air supply is blocked to a minimum.
It is impossible to use an ordinary Russian stove in this version; such an attempt will, in all likelihood, lead to disastrous consequences. Gases can enter the room, which threatens to poison people. Stoves with a long burning process are equipped with sealed doors, dampers, and adjustment devices, which prevents gas from entering the room. Heating devices of this kind deserve attention for many reasons:
- can work on one tab without supervision for 10–20 hours;
- light weight, can be installed without a foundation;
- fuel of any kind is suitable, burns out completely, efficiency up to 90%;
- can be used occasionally, which is important for giving;
- no foreign smells and smoke;
- the ability to assemble yourself from inexpensive materials.
The undoubted advantages also include low cost, since little material is required. If do it yourself , using a metal barrel, a gas cylinder, will come out even cheaper.
Scope of use - from the garage to the house
How can I use a long-burning heating stove? The choice of constructive option depends on the intended tasks. If the unit is required for a house or a summer residence, it is better to use stoves with a water jacket. They combine conventional stove heating and water heating. Water carries heat energy through the system, heating the room. At the same time, the furnace body is heated, which increases the efficiency of heat transfer.
Can be used in the garage, in the bath or in the house
In a long-burning boiler, when the combustion process stops, the water cools down quickly, the batteries become cold. But the stove cools down more slowly, still gradually giving off heat. For a summer residence, a stove combined with is preferable. It includes a coil in which water is heated. Sometimes it is installed directly in the furnace, which is unsafe. Heat, which occurs during the combustion of gases, can lead to boiling water and destroy the coil.
It is better to install a water heating coil in the chimney cap. This solution is suitable for heating cottages, increasing heat transfer. The design of the unit is chosen, taking into account the area of \u200b\u200bthe room. For a small bath, garage, greenhouse, you can use the stove without a water circuit. The air-heating stove in the bath is convenient for adjusting the intensity of combustion. It warms up a small room well, which is good for a bath, but not suitable for a house with permanent residence.
Let's get started - what you need
To make a homemade oven, you need to choose a convenient place. It should be a room with connected electricity, sufficient area. Now about the materials. It is easier for a stove with a long burning time to use a 200 l steel barrel. However, the volume is not of fundamental importance, the heat transfer of the device will simply depend on it. Use gas cylinders and even fire extinguishers.
But, again, the volume of the workpiece: from a 27-liter cylinder you can make a stove for heating a bath, from a smaller one or a fire extinguisher - for a tiny room. The thickness of the metal matters: the thicker, the longer the furnace will last. If there is nothing suitable, we use a thick-walled pipe, steel sheets. The metal must be free of damage and rust. From other materials you will need:
- material for the legs, if the oven is round (pipes, square, fittings);
- sheet steel 5 mm thick according to the dimensions of the end side of the product;
- sealed door or material for it;
- 100 mm pipe is 15 cm longer than the device;
- 5 m pipe 150 mm for smoke removal.
Measuring devices are needed: tape measure, plumb line, level, as well as a hammer, mallet, trowel.
The device of furnaces - a detailed analysis of the features
Starting to manufacture, we first get acquainted with the features of the device, work. We draw up drawings for the furnace, based on the materials that we plan to use. As the main material, a steel pipe with a diameter of 400 mm or the same cast iron pipe is most suitable. The walls should be thicker, better than 5 mm, then the stove will last a long time, especially cast iron. Thin metal does not last long, the walls quickly burn out.
Cast iron is preferred as a furnace material, but it is more difficult to work with than steel. Special electrodes and a certain skill of the welder are required.
The figure shows the operation of a long-term combustion furnace.
The device consists of three parts. In the lower zone is solid fuel, which slowly smolders. Above the zone of combustion of gases and smoke removal. Between them is a loading zone, which gradually decreases as the fuel burns out.
For any scheme, an air regulator is mandatory, which determines the duration of combustion. This is a 5mm steel plate. A pipe is welded in the middle, through which air enters the chamber. As the fuel burns daily allowance bookmarks, the disk gradually descends. For unhindered sliding, it is made somewhat smaller than the internal dimensions of the furnace compartment. At the bottom of the distributor is an impeller 5 cm high, with large sizes the combustion process is accelerated, which is undesirable.
A pipe for supplying oxygen with a diameter of 100 mm for a product from a barrel and 60 for a balloon or from a pipe. The holes in the distributor are 90 or 50 mm, respectively, otherwise a lot of oxygen will enter the combustion chamber, the fuel will burn faster. A damper for draft control is installed at the top of the supply pipe. Two versions are possible: an air-heated stove and a boiler that heats air and at the same time water to heat the room. Water is heated in the coil and goes to the radiators. The diagram below shows such a design.
We assemble ourselves - a sequence of actions
It is most convenient to use a barrel or gas cylinder. We carefully cut off the top in them - the material will still come in handy. In the cylinder, we first unscrew the valve, drain the remaining gas and leave it for several days until the smell of gas ceases to be felt. We cut out a place in the body for attaching a sealed door through which ash is removed. From 5 mm metal we cut out a circle, slightly smaller in diameter than the inner part.
In the middle we weld a pipe for supplying oxygen. In the lower position, it should protrude 15 cm above the surface of the heating device. We weld 6 blades 5 cm high at a certain angle from below. For a model based on a gas cylinder, we use the upper part of the body, where we cut out a place for a pipe, in a barrel for these purposes we use a lid. The air pipe must move freely up and down. From the bottom of the case we weld legs for stability. We cut a round hole on the side of the upper part and fasten a 150 mm pipe to remove smoke.
It is more difficult to make a unit from sheet iron. Accuracy of calculations and marking of all parts is required, cut and weld. It is practically impossible to make a round-shaped device at home without special rolls for bending metal, of course, if thin sheet tin is not used, which is irrational. If there is no possibility for twisting sheets, the output will be the manufacture of a rectangular oven. A possible option is shown in the drawing.
By appearance it resembles the one known to everyone, but changes have been made to the design that increase efficiency. The main changes concern the blower. It is made from an 80 mm pipe like the letter G, but for simplicity it can be made straight. We drill holes with a diameter of 6–8 mm on a threaded pipe. We install a blind plug on the thread, turning it along the thread we regulate combustion with great accuracy.
We determine the correct supply of oxygen by the hot spot on the chimney - at first it should be away from the furnace, over time it gradually shifts towards it.
The potbelly stove heats up during operation, so it is used not only as a heating, but also as a cooking. On the sides outside, we install a screen at a distance of 50 mm from the walls. It is not worth welding the ribs - the unit works effectively with a hot inside. The screen protects the room from infrared rays, prevents overheating of the room. It reflects at least half of them, maintaining the optimum temperature in the heating device.
Hot water circuit - an option for home heating
A potbelly stove can be easily converted into a slow-burning boiler for water heating. Instead of a screen, we install a U-shaped metal water heater, which will also reflect the IF rays. We install it at the same distance as the screen. The installation closely cools the furnace, reducing its efficiency. The potbelly stove, as in the drawing, produces 15 kW, so it can heat 25 m 2 of the room. If there is no need for water heating, you can use a water heater for domestic needs.
Intention to make a potbelly stove with long burning for heating larger area, hopelessly. An increase in size will lead to a deterioration in quality indicators. In a large firebox, sluggish circulation is observed, the release of gases is insufficient, the room does not warm up well. If you fill the firebox with firewood to the top, there will simply be no room left for a convection vortex to form. The conclusion is unequivocal: the dimensions of the potbelly stove determine the properties of the pyrolysis gas.
But still, a more powerful long-burning boiler for water heating has been developed. It is difficult to repeat industrial designs, but the design shown in the drawing can be assembled at home.
Particular attention deserves node B with a telescopic rod for regulating the flow of oxygen. The unit develops a power of 35 kW when working on coal and pellets, burning continues for 12 hours. On wood, the efficiency is lower, they burn out in 8 hours.
Sawdust stove - nothing complicated and affordable
Such a device runs on the cheapest fuel, which burns well and gives a lot of heat energy. Often sawdust is simply thrown away or sold at a symbolic price. But they can burn only in special devices; in other types of furnaces, if they burn, then it is bad. Design features the possibility of strong compaction of the wood pulp is provided so that no air remains between its particles. In this state, they will not burn quickly, but smolder, giving off heat sufficient to heat one or two rooms.
The installation is going on the same principle as others with vertical loading. It is better to use cylindrical metal products, but if this is not possible, you can make a rectangular shape. Unlike a potbelly stove, where firewood is loaded from the side, we provide for loading sawdust from above. This one differs from other models by the presence of a conical tube. It is inserted in the middle of the air regulator - a circle with a hole inside the oven. The design is shown in the drawing.
We fill the sawdust inside and ram it as tightly as possible to prolong the burning process. We remove the pipe - it's easy because of its conical shape. The hole formed in its place will serve as a chimney and for supplying oxygen to support sawdust smoldering. From the side of the blower, we set fire to sawdust - the process has begun. It is important to properly adjust the chimney: excessive draft will draw heat out into the street, with weak combustion, smoke will penetrate into the room.
Combustion occurs mainly in the central part of the furnace compartment, the walls heat up weakly. If you lay a long chimney around the room, the efficiency of the device will increase. For greenhouses, this is a good option.
Installing a heater - important rules
For the installation to work safely, certain rules must be followed:
- it is forbidden to place combustible and flammable objects at the heating distance;
- we make the chimney collapsible with the possibility of cleaning;
- before use, we conduct a test to find the optimal mode.
For the chimney we use a pipe with a diameter of 150 mm, a length of 5 m. With a smaller section, the smoke will not be well removed, with a large one, excess draft will appear. We install an adjustable valve on the chimney. Accumulated condensate must be periodically removed. If the chimney is non-separable, doors are made in it for cleaning. Abundant formation of condensate can be prevented by making a chimney according to the sandwich principle. Between two pipes of different diameters, we lay a layer of glass wool for insulation. From above, we cover the chimney pipe with a deflector so that rain, snow, and wind do not get in.
The stove in the house where there are children is lined with bricks. The masonry around plays the role of a protective screen, so as not to get burned when accidentally touched, protects objects and walls from overheating. She also serves good battery heat. The brick will accumulate heat, will give it away much more slowly than the iron case. We arrange the foundation if the floor under the stove is made of combustible materials. It is not necessary to deepen it greatly, the weight of the heater is small.
A long-term vertical furnace is heated, adhering to the following rules. We remove the cover, take out the adjusting device - a pipe with a clamping circle. We load the furnace with fuel, the maximum height is up to the bottom of the chimney opening. We try to pack any fuel as tightly as possible. From above, in the center, we lay small dry branches, then paper or a cloth moistened with kerosene. We install a clamp, a cover, throw burning paper or a rag into the pipe. It is unlikely that it will be possible to set fire to a match - it will go out on the fly. When the fuel flares up well, close the air damper - work continues in the smoldering mode.
Homemade designs use almost any solid fuel: wood, coal, garbage, pellets. But still, it is necessary to take into account the features of each model in order to choose the most efficient fuel. On sawdust, as already mentioned, vertical furnaces with a conical tube can work effectively. Vertically located devices work well on wood, coal, briquettes. Products of long-term combustion with a horizontal firebox are designed for the use of firewood, wood chips. Pellets are used mainly in industrial equipment where fuel is supplied automatically, but can also burn in home-made installations.
In horizontal furnaces, heat transfer can be increased by using a furnace bulkhead. From a thick metal sheet we cut out a blank with a width of internal dimensions, and a length of ⅔ of the length of the furnace compartment. We install it at the top under the chimney pipe. Such a simple device slows down the flow of gas, and heat is additionally accumulated.
Another device for the full use of the effect of long burning is the injector. This is one or two pipes with holes leading into the furnace. We cut holes in the walls of the heating apparatus according to their diameter, and weld the injector. It is located at the height of the center of the chimney, but in front of the firebox. The injector serves to feed the combustion process with air, the upper wall warms up better. When the device enters the smoldering process, it does not work.
We have only talked about a few. We hope that using the information received, you will be able to independently manufacture a simple and reliable device that does not require constant maintenance.
With the onset of cold autumn days, it becomes necessary to heat the garage during car repairs or keep warm when harvesting potatoes on your site. A potbelly stove with long-burning wood can be an excellent replacement for expensive stoves and will fit perfectly into small auxiliary rooms in which it makes no sense to constantly maintain heat.
In ordinary potbelly stoves, which have long been known to everyone, firewood burns out quickly, and it takes a lot of them to heat the room. In order to make a long-burning stove out of a potbelly stove, it was necessary to equip it with an additional device for long-burning fuel. Craftsmen found a way out of this situation, and appeared different variants such units: Slobozhanka, pyrolysis, bubafonya and others. They are very economical, you can heat firewood, sawdust, wood chips and other combustible waste from firewood. They can burn, or rather, smolder, for a whole day, and their efficiency exceeds 90%. They don't need constant supervision.
It is convenient to install these stoves in greenhouses, garages, cottages and small houses. wooden houses. The disadvantage is that they have a special organization of the chimney, in which several branches cannot be made. As soon as the firewood burns out, the potbelly stove cools down, but during combustion it heats up very much. You can make a potbelly stove from anything, and its design is quite simple. You can cut it out of metal, and then it turns out to be a rectangular shape.
You can make a long-burning potbelly stove from an ordinary steel barrel or a used gas cylinder. The principle of operation is the same everywhere - smoldering. A feature of such heaters are two chambers, which are divided into two parts: for fuel and for further combustion of coal and gases. A piston is provided in the furnace device, which:
- supplies air to the furnace;
- exerts uniform strong pressure on the firewood, they smolder and evenly fall down.
Firewood in the firebox burns very slowly. At the same time, the gas that is formed during combustion burns in the adjacent chamber. In the mode of such delayed action, the furnace does not heat up much, so the walls must be of small thickness. When heating a large room, the design is chosen more powerful, and then more firewood is required, respectively, and the heat transfer will be higher.
As the firewood burns, the chamber itself also decreases, on which a damper presses from above, which regulates air circulation.
In a residential area, such a device is not very convenient and profitable. To load fuel or to clean soot, the dirty piston must first be removed. And to remove soot, you need to remove the chimney elbow and turn the stove body over.
How to make a wood burning stove. Potbelly stove efficiency 200%
Preparatory work
Perfect for every garage owner make a homemade oven. It is possible to build a potbelly stove of long burning with your own hands within a few hours from a used barrel. It must be strong, with a flat surface. If dents or bulges remain in some place, the air duct will not fit snugly against the fuel and will hang over it. The walls of the container must be freed from residues of gasoline, paint, glue, etc. using gas burner or blowtorch, then cleaned with a wire brush. Then you need to make a piston and blades.
The grinder in this case will not cope, since the metal is quite thick, and it is better to contact service center or to the factory. At home, it remains only to clean the cutting places, remove drops and growths. The next stage of preparation is the choice of a place for installation. Here you need to be guided by some mandatory rules.
Firstly, the floor must be level, and secondly, the oven must stand on a protected surface: metal sheets or asbestos fiber boards can be used. The potbelly stove is installed away from flammable materials.
Do not mount the heating device under hanging furniture. It is also taken into account how the chimney will be arranged. To prevent heat from escaping into the pipe, when passing its vertical part on the street, its other part is laid horizontally. If he walks around the room, then the potbelly stove can be installed using any method. Still need to decide how to proceed required amount air to the thermal chamber. Good ventilation is indispensable here.
Original long-burning potbelly stove
The first step is to create a firebox: the upper round part of the barrel is carefully cut off. After that, the edges of the barrel and the cut part are processed with a hammer or sledgehammer. In this case, the uneven edges of the barrel are rounded inward, and at the circle - outward. This procedure is necessary to create greater tightness when closing the lid. Next, a round metal disk with the same diameter as the barrel itself is welded onto the body of the future furnace.
This surface can be used to cook food or boil tea. In place of the cork, which is located on top of the barrel, a sliding damper is installed that regulates the supply of secondary air, which enters the afterburning zone. A hole for the air duct is cut in the middle of the cover, which is scalded in a circle with metal. The piston is made from a steel sheet or from the bottom of another barrel.
Potbelly stove of long burning.
On the upper plane of the piston are welded additional metal parts so that the force of its pressure corresponds to the calculations of the air entering the firebox. A hole is made in the center of the pressure circle, the diameter of which must match the outer diameter of the air duct, and they are firmly welded to each other. Then, blades up to 40 mm high must be attached to the bottom of the piston, which are used to uniform distribution oxygen throughout the furnace.
They are flat and rounded. You can use both, but with rounded ones, the smoke flow goes in a spiral, and its path slows down. Ultimately, the heat transfer of the furnace increases. A splitter is attached to the center of the piston from the side of the pipe. A damper with a latch is installed on top of the pipe to regulate the flow of the primary portion of air. In the upper opening, which is cut on the body, a branch pipe is mounted by welding with a continuous seam. A support frame with legs is constructed from various metal waste.
An important part when creating a potbelly stove is a chimney with pipes, the diameter of which should be a little more than 10 cm. You must also prepare three knees and a plug and all sequentially connect to each other: 
Manual
In pyrolysis ovens only dry wood is used. The fact is that when raw wood is burned, a large amount of water vapor is released, and it greatly reduces the heating temperature of the fuel. In addition, complete combustion of volatile substances does not occur, and when cooled in the chimney, they remain on its walls, which are very difficult to remove during cleaning. When raw firewood is burned, many harmful chemicals are released that affect the environment and human health.
In a well-dried fuel, the waste mainly consists of carbon dioxide and water vapor, and outside you can see a small, barely perceptible movement of air. Before filling the stove with wood, the piston is removed. The operating time of the potbelly stove and its heat transfer depend on the density of the fuel stacking. Even small gaps between logs are covered with chips, shavings, sawdust, etc. A rag soaked in kerosene is placed on top of everything, and, having put the piston in place, the heater is tightly closed with a lid. Only after that they throw a burning match there.
It is not recommended to put various household waste in the oven, except for paper. All plastic products and shampoo bottles, foam liners, plastic bags, when burned, will release many hazardous elements that cannot decompose even during the pyrolysis process. In addition, they highlight high percent soot, which will clog the chimney ahead of time.
