Wall cladding with ceramic tiles - where to start? Wall cladding with ceramic tiles

It doesn't matter what building it is. If it is made from modern materials, then the finishing process for him is very important. Moreover, finishing should be done both from the inside of the structure and from the outside. Wall tiling today is a common phenomenon, many homeowners choose this option for their premises. The tile is good because it can be used not only on the surface of the walls - it is often used to decorate other architectural and interior structures in houses and apartments.

What kind of work can tiles be used for?

All finishing works are traditionally divided into external and internal. The choice of the type of tile material is already selected depending on this. Today, by the way, you will find a lot of types of tiles on sale, each of which has its pros and cons, but more on that later.

What you need to know? Following:

• When exterior decoration is carried out, often work aimed at warming the building is also performed in one;
• But the desired result without significant costs can be obtained only in the situation if you are going to mount the finishing tiles on the crate or frame.

Facing tiles for decorating houses began to be used not so long ago. But popularity this direction increases year by year. The explanation here is simple - the tile is a durable and practical material, it would be foolish not to take advantage of such advantages.

What types of finishing tiles exist today

Today you can easily buy in any hardware store the following types of tiles:

1. Ceramic;
2. plastic;
3. Made from minerals.

Some varieties have practically the same characteristics and properties. But at the same time, there are still certain differences, which plays a huge role in the performance of a particular finish. For example, wall tiling will be of better quality if one material is used, something else is suitable for working on another surface.

Finishing the house with plastic tiles

This type of material is quite in demand in recent times. It's all about the versatility of the tile - you can use it both outdoors and outdoors. interior decoration premises.

This tile has excellent characteristics, the same can be said about the technical properties.

panels, made of plastic and used for decoration, are:

• Frost-resistant;
• moisture resistant;
• practical;
• wear resistant;
• durable;
• For surface decoration, the consumer is provided with a wide range of products.

Plastic panels easily withstand sharp, significant temperature changes, while not fading under the sun. Due to all this, your finish will retain its original appearance for a long time.

Also pay attention to the fact that the cost of such products is quite moderate - due to this, the material deserves some customer sympathy.

If a talk about size, then things go like this:

The most common:

1. 150 by 300 cm;
2. 125 by 250 cm;
3. 100 by 200 cm;
4. 100 by 150 cm.

Due to the versatility of these sizes, costs are significantly reduced - that is, you will save a lot on the purchase of finishing material. Mounting plastic panels(tiles) is easy to make - even a beginner can do it.

No need to produce preparatory work to give the surface, and any material is suitable for fastening. The crate usually acts as the basis for fixing the tiles - so everything is very simple.

Assembly work and plastic

Can be produced with two mounting options:

1. Or a frame is used;
2. Or mount directly to the wall.

If you want to use the latter method, then it is possible - if a plasterboard or wooden surface is tiled. Otherwise, your choice is a framework.

What is needed for to mount plastic tiles on a wall without a frame?

• Screwdriver and building level;
• Self-tapping screws with decorative heads;
• Ruler, pencil, tape measure;
• Electric jigsaw or scissors for cutting metal.

A small recommendation: to complete all the panel installation work quickly, instead of screwdrivers and self-tapping screws, you can always choose a construction stapler. The main thing is to choose the staples of exactly the shade that suits best for the implementation of your plan.

The work steps are:

• You can use construction adhesive or liquid nails to tile the wall with plastic tiles. Often this is how the cladding is made kitchen sets- to bring freshness to the interior;
• Another popular type of fixing plastic tiles: a crate is made, which is usually made of a metal profile or wood. Which option you decide to choose - it all depends on the weight of the future finish and the quality of your surface.

If you are faced with the task: to finish with plastic tiles is enough large area, use a profile metal frame. This design is durable and at the same time it is very durable.

• If you are thinking of using a wooden crate, there are many things to consider. For example, evaluate - what are the climatic conditions in your region, and also - at what time of the year the house is operated (or even on an ongoing basis);
• This is taken into account because the tree freely absorbs moisture.

In order to give the wood at least some protection from external conditions, it is customary to coat the frame of such material immediately after manufacturing with varnish or paint. Making it yourself is not at all difficult. To do this, you will need the following list:

• Planks made of wood or metal profile. If you decide to use planks, they must have the same diameter so that everything works out with high quality;
• Self-tapping screws are needed, both for wood and metal;
• You can not do without a building level, a screwdriver, a puncher. If you don't have a screwdriver handy, you can always use a drill;
• Of course, without a pencil and a tape measure, it’s not worth getting down to business;
• A jigsaw is also required (if not, metal scissors will do);
• Dowels are also needed, where without them.

And now - the installation itself:

• They begin by fixing the strips with dowels - vertical or horizontal. They will be the basis for the construction of your crate. All other structural elements are attached to these strips with the help of self-tapping screws;
• When the construction of the crate is completed, you can safely take on the installation of plastic tiles. If their size is the same, then self-tapping screws that have decorative caps are perfect for installation. You can also use a construction stapler - so many do today;
• When finishing the surface of the wall, each seam must be treated with a sealant - so that the end result is more reliable and of high quality.

When the walls are finished with tiles, you can always additionally insulate the building - this will definitely not be difficult. For insulation, it is recommended to use mineral solid materials.

Ideal for the following heaters:

• Styrofoam;
• polyurethane foam;
• Expanded polystyrene extruded.

What can be said about technical indicators of heaters:

• Mineral wool today is most often used when the floor is insulated;
• The materials listed above are highly durable - thanks to this, they only need to be inserted into the crate mesh - this is quite enough to insulate the floor.

If you mount on plastic facing tiles, it is simply mounted on the frame - a second crate is not made. It is needed in order to be able to fix the wooden finishing material - if it is planned to carry out work aimed at warming the walls.

We do ceramic tiling

Once upon a time, ceramic tiles were used only for indoor finishing works. But today the situation has changed dramatically - the reason for this modern technologies, the production process of this material. That is, if necessary, you can always use ceramics for exterior finish their designs. That's right, tiling the walls outside the house is quite real!

In addition, pipes are often tiled. This can be explained by the fact that the characteristics of the material and its technical properties are excellent.

What are the properties of ceramic tiles? Let's deal with this in more detail:

• The material is moisture resistant, as it is made from fired clay. And additional protective equipment is applied on top;
• In addition, ceramic tiles have high wear resistance. Since the material has protective layer, the finish will remain in its original form for many years - the design will not suffer over the years;
• We should not forget about frost resistance. There are varieties of ceramic tiles that can easily withstand even severe frosts.

• Ceramic tiles can be called a practical material. Since there is a protective layer on the surface of the products, the tile does not absorb dust and dirt, in addition, it is very easy to clean, without any effort. To clean the surface of ceramic tiles, you can safely use even detergents with abrasive particles - you don’t need to worry that the surface will be covered with scratches or deformations will occur;
• This tile is very durable. Your finish will be in excellent condition for the next ten to twenty years. But other factors also influence this, namely: shrinkage of the structure. That is, this process can affect the quality of the finish for the worse;
• Reliability and strength. Ceramic tiles can withstand even serious loads - this will be confirmed by any finishing specialist.

The choice of ceramic tiles in stores today pleases with a wide range. Materials differ not only in size, but also in external decor. Shades of ceramic tiles for wall decoration can be different - you are sure to find exactly the solution that suits your design.

The latest trends in the world of building fashion indicate that terracotta tiles are at the peak of demand today. This ceramic is purchased for facing kitchen areas, bathrooms.

If you want to know more about this wonderful finishing material - watch the video: wall decoration ceramic tiles. Be sure to learn a lot of new useful information- relevant even for "experienced" finishers and builders.

Installation work and ceramic tiles

Installation of ceramic tiles is allowed only on the surface that is perfectly flat. In order for the base to meet this requirement, drywall or plaster is used. However, for each person, both the first and the second can be the best option.

What should you know:

• It is not always rational to use plaster to level the surface - this process can be very lengthy. At the same time, it is necessary to do a lot of work, to use a lot of different materials. In addition, when plastering walls, construction debris always remains in excess - consider this information;
• In the case of drywall, everything is completely different. It is mounted quite simply - it is done on a profile metal carcass. To do everything, it takes not so much time, nothing laborious in the work is not observed.

What is needed for to decorate the wall with ceramic tiles? You need the following:

• Specialized glue or cement mortar, which must be diluted in certain proportions. You also need a liquid for dilution. You will get all the details if you look at the packaging of the composition - everything is usually detailed there by the manufacturer himself. You can easily make a cement mortar with your own hands from cement and plain water;
• You also need a building level - it is they who set each tile on the surface to be finished, only when this work is done, the product can be fixed;
• You can not do without a spatula and a trowel - to apply a solution of glue or cement to the surface of the wall. Remember also that it is also customary to apply the mortar on the back of the ceramic tile.

Don't forget to stock up on cross-shaped beacons - they need to be inserted between each of your tiles. This is necessary so that there is the same distance between the products and everything turns out smoothly, harmoniously, beautifully.

Wall decoration with mineral tiles

If you decide to finish with mineral plates, then remember - this is possible only on a surface that is perfectly flat. Often this material is chosen for work on the surface of the ceiling.

What are minplates anyway? This material is extruded polystyrene foam, which at the present stage of development production process may have a different surface, have a different design.

Finishing with mineral tiles on the walls is not common, however, it has certain positive properties:

• It is vapor barrier and soundproofing. That is, the material can be used and not worry about additional insulation or work aimed at insulation. That is why such plates are often referred to as soundproofing finishing material;
• Installation work is carried out very simply - tiles can be mounted not only directly on the surface, but also on a specialized frame with walls made of profiles (special);
• This tile is moisture resistant - the material will not absorb moisture or any pollution, which is very convenient;
• The weight of the products is light - this is another important plus.

There are varieties of mineral tiles that have a perforated surface. With the help of such products, you can get a really interesting design in a particular room.

Often hidden under the surface of the material lighting- with this technique, you can achieve a very effective play of light in the interior of the room. In a word, mineral tiles are a real find for all those people who are fond of design delights.

• Materials and tools
• Tile selection
• Surface preparation
• Adhesive selection
• Wall marking
• Cladding technology
• Seam rubbing
• Floor cladding
• Trimming methods

The tile has excellent heat resistance, strength, is not afraid of moisture, has good soundproofing properties, and is durable.

And if we add to this a variety of color, structural and artistic solutions of the surface of modern tile materials, then you can be sure that tiling as a finish for a wide variety of rooms will not lose relevance for a long time.

The technology for sticking tiles is quite simple:

• the surface of the wall or floor is prepared for tiles;
• surface marking is carried out;
• the adhesive mass is applied and leveled;
• a tile is applied to the glue and aligned according to the markup;
• the distance between the tiles is “beaten off” with special marking crosses or other devices;
• interstitial seams are rubbed.

In practice, there are many nuances. Finished walls and floors may be uneven. Surfaces have a different structure. The rooms come in different sizes and configurations. All these nuances must be taken into account.

In any case, understand all the main details of the finish tiles any particular surface is quite within the power of even a beginner.

Materials and tools

For gluing tiles (excluding surface preparation), the following materials are purchased:

• actual tile;
• adhesive mass;
• mixture for grouting;
• marking crosses.

The labeling process involves the use of tools such as:

• building level for marking the surface and controlling the laid tiles;
• rope plumb;
• chalk and pencil for marking the surface and the tile itself;
• ruler and tape measure;
• brush or roller for priming;
• spatula with a notched side for distributing the adhesive mass over the surface to be glued;
• rubber spatula for rubbing seams;
• rubber or wooden mallet;
• tile cutter;
• ordinary glass cutter;
• pliers, wire cutters or tongs for breaking off pieces of tiles;
• wooden planks or timber;
• sharpener, emery, file for processing the cut tile edge;
• hacksaw or jigsaw for cutting ceramics;
• container with a capacity of 5 liters for the preparation of adhesive mass;
• rubber gloves;
• sponge and rags;
• thread or twine.

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Tile selection

With all the variety of sizes, shapes, colors and configurations of modern tiles, the main selection criterion should be the parameters of the room to be tiled and its purpose.

When choosing a tile, it is useful to know that the glossy surface and bright hues colors visually enlarge the space small rooms such as bathrooms and toilets.

The shape of the tile will also help enhance this effect. Rectangular, laid horizontally, it will visually expand and lower the room, thereby improving its proportionality. On the contrary, a square tile or a rectangular tile, but located vertically, will narrow the internal dimensions of the room and visually “raise” the ceiling.

In spacious rooms it is more expedient to use a large-sized tile, and it fits faster.

When choosing the texture of a tiled surface, you also need to remember that glossy increases space, while matte, on the contrary, narrows it.

When choosing a floor tile, an important role is played by the "slipperiness" of its surface.

According to the strength of the tile material is divided into four categories. The most durable tiles are category IV and are used for exterior entrance areas, lobbies and halls.

The I-th, the “lightest” category includes tiles, the purpose of which is wall cladding in bathrooms and kitchens.

When choosing the color of the tile, it is also necessary to take into account the lighting in the room being finished. Daytime sunlight "saturates" the color scheme, giving it a "juicy" look.

Artificial lighting differently "highlights" the tile.

Incandescent lamps give the tiles warm shades. Halogen fluorescent lamps, on the contrary, “cool” and impoverish the color of the material.

Thus, in order to achieve the effect of a bright and spacious room, it is better to use a medium-sized light tile without a pattern or with an unobtrusive neutral image.

To create coziness and an atmosphere of “intimacy”, you can choose darker color solutions tiles.

The most practical and unpretentious in care is a large-sized tile with a matte surface and a dark grout tone.

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Surface preparation

Preliminary preparation for wall tiling can be reduced to two components: leveling the wall, which has deviations from the vertical plane, and increasing the adhesive properties of the surface.

Alignment of the wall must be carried out if the deviations from the vertical are 2 cm or more.

Small irregularities are eliminated with wet plaster, cement or gypsum.

If the irregularities of the wall plane are large enough, but not more than 6 cm, then a metal plaster mesh is used, with cells from 1 to 3 cm. The mesh is firmly fixed on the surface, forming a leveling and supporting frame, and a gypsum or cement plaster layer is already applied to it. The plaster is leveled and processed under the tile sticker.

In case of critical deviations of the glued surface from the horizontal or vertical planes, from 5 cm or more, the wall is leveled using the “dry plaster” method. In other words, the surface is leveled with plasterboard sheets.

Sheets of drywall are fixed on the surface of the wall, previously cleaned and primed, using a special gypsum mounting adhesive. When combining sheets, it is necessary to avoid cruciform joints.

Drywall sheets laid on gypsum glue are leveled with a slight “tapping”. A rubber or wooden mallet is used.

It is necessary to level drywall sheets quickly enough, since gypsum-based mounting adhesive quickly hardens.

The plasterboard wall is primed with a special primer with a high degree of penetration to increase adhesion.

Only after all the cladding of the walls with plasterboard sheets is completed, the joints are puttyed with finishing putty.

To improve the adhesive properties of the glued surface, special primers of the Betonkontakt type are used. Smooth walls made of bricks or cinder blocks are cleaned of large cement deposits and subjected to an adhesive primer immediately before pasting, in order to bind dust particles that are necessarily present on any cleaned surface.

You need to know that the formwork for the formation reinforced concrete structures pretreated with lubricants (machine oil). This is necessary so that it can be easily removed.

Part of the lubricant remains on the surface of the concrete and sharply impairs adhesion. As a result, the glue “floats” on such a surface and the tile peels off.

Therefore, reinforced concrete walls obtained by the formwork method should be pre-sheathed with a plaster mesh and the tiles should be glued along the mesh.

If it is necessary to stick tiles on a painted wall, the paint must be completely removed. If the paint adheres very firmly, the wall is even and the layer of adhesive mass is meant to be thin, then the painted layer may not be removed. But at the same time, it is necessary to put notches on the wall surface for better adhesive adhesion.

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Adhesive selection

There are a huge number of options for adhesives for tiles.

The tile is glued to a cement mortar with the addition of PVA, to a mixture of bitumen with diesel fuel, to “liquid nails”, oil paint with cement or silicone. All this is acceptable if the surface is even and the tiles do not need to be leveled with an adhesive mass.

If the tiles have to be glued on chipboard, chipboard, MDF or plywood, then it is best to use special synthetic adhesive and sealing mixtures. In this situation, ordinary silicone “works” well, but careful surface preparation is necessary for it.

For walls with traditional cement, plaster and putty, it is best to use special synthetic adhesives that can work with any type of tile.

There are a great many such compositions, all of them are developed using the most modern materials. With their help, you can not only glue the tiles with high quality, but also even out small irregularities, remove flaws.

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Wall marking

High-quality wall cladding requires marking. Marking the surface for finishing tiles begins with the “beating” of the bottom row.

If the flooring has already been laid and the tiles will be glued directly from it, then marking is not required.

If the floor will be laid after pasting the walls, then the second lower row becomes the beginning of the wall cladding. Tiles of the first row will be glued and trimmed later, on the finished floor.

A mark is made on the wall. The distance from the mark to the floor is one tile. Using a level, a strictly horizontal line is indicated from this mark along the entire length of the walls to be glued.

From the floor to the drawn line, the distance is measured. The smallest value is identified and noted. It is this lower mark that will be the starting point. From the bottom mark, another line is drawn along the entire length of the walls, strictly horizontal. This is the beginning of the cladding - the bottom line of the second row of tiles.

If the line from the first mark turned out to be at the same distance from the entire surface of the floor, then this means that the floor is perfectly flat and no cutting of tiles in the first row is required.

With a large area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe room, using a conventional spirit level to draw a horizontal line is difficult. In this case, it is better to use a hydraulic level. Several marks are placed on the marked wall. All marks are connected, and the necessary line is obtained.

A plank or beam is stuffed along the lower border, serving as a support for the tile.

Ceramic tiles have been used by man for many centuries to decorate his home. During this time, it has changed beyond recognition, continuing to be one of the most popular finishing materials. The material is not cheap, but capable of successfully performing decorative, sanitary and protective functions.

The choice of ceramics produced by Russian and foreign manufacturers is amazing. All possible sizes, colors, texture options. The material becomes familiar, which is difficult to distinguish from natural leather, fabric, wood. The use of the photo printing method allows you to apply three-dimensional images to the surface. To implement the most striking and unusual design ideas, it remains for the "small" - to properly clad the walls with this wonderful finishing material. You can’t do without this when carrying out ordinary repairs, when you just need to “refresh” the walls. The technology of wall cladding with ceramic tiles will be discussed.

Packages of ceramic tiles intended for wall cladding are marked with a pictogram with a human palm.

Material Quantity Calculation

You can calculate the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe walls and divide by the area of ​​​​one tile of the size that you have chosen for this room. Just? Yes, but the discrepancy with the actual amount will be quite significant. It is better to work a little with the calculations, so that later you do not buy more or think about what to do with the surplus.

We measure the area under the lining with a tape measure. We pay special attention to the corners in the room. We check them by applying a construction corner. Right angles (which is rare in our new homes) - our task will be simplified, no right angle- You will need a supply of material for trimming.

Draw a projection of each wall on a sheet of paper, marking the places where the tiles will not fit. Mark the position of borders and other decorative elements on the drawing. Select the laying option to be used (traditional seam-to-seam, diagonal or staggered).

At this stage, it is necessary to ensure that narrow strips of tiles do not have to be laid in the corners. And remember that half of the ceramic tile in the drawing in life will have to be considered as a whole.

Very important! It is impossible to do without the obligatory high-quality alignment of the wall. This is not a wallpaper that you can reluctantly stick with an overlap, but cut or cut a strip in the corners.

Have you calculated? Feel free to add at least another 10% - for trimming, marriage, correcting inaccuracies in the initial calculations.

Wall surface preparation

Before the start of laying work, the surface of the walls in the room is prepared. We clean concrete and brick walls from traces of old plaster and dirt. We pay special attention to potholes and irregularities, as well as corners. We close up all the irregularities with a layer of mortar and try to eliminate the curvature of the wall. On flat walls with 90° angles, tiles look great.

The rough surface improves the adhesion (adhesion) of the material to the wall. Therefore, a finishing leveling layer is not applied to the plastered wall, but on the contrary, small notches are made with a chisel.

Tool for the job

For work, we need to prepare a set of spatulas (smooth, notched, rubber, including a semicircular one for leveling the seams), a level, a plumb line, a tape measure, a metal ruler, a simple pencil, a container for glue. A stiff brush and sponge will be needed to grout the joints between the tiles. A tile cutter is required for cutting ceramics, a drill for drilling.

Of the materials, in addition to the ceramic tiles themselves, we need special glue, grout, plastic spacer crosses and corners (internal or external).

Cutting and drilling tiles

For cutting, we use a roller tile cutter, which, with small volumes, can be replaced with a good glass cutter. On the surface of the tile, we outline a line and insert it into the tile cutter, make a movement with the handle “away from you”. We draw a glass cutter along the line, then lay the tile on the surface so that the part that needs to be cut off does not have support. We take the free edge in the palm of our hand and “bend” it down with an energetic movement.

For drilling ceramics, we use special pen drills (the drill has the shape of a spear). Hole drills or hole saws are used if it is necessary to drill holes of large diameter.

Important! When drilling, we hold the drill horizontally relative to the base (floor). Do not roll in any direction! The drill must be in normal drilling mode. Start drilling at low speed. Having drilled a hole in ceramics, we change the feather drill for a concrete drill.

When drilling ceramics, moisten its surface with water.

Wall covering

We start by marking the walls. Laying work begins from the bottom, as the current SNiP 3.04.01-87 regulates and suggests common sense. We apply the tiles of the first, lowest, row to the wall at the base (there is no flooring yet) and draw a flat horizontal line along the upper edge, checking the horizon with a level. We will glue the first row later, after facing the entire wall. A metal profile is attached along this line (below it), which will hold the glued ceramic tile and prevent it from moving down.

Very important! When checking the horizontality of each row, do not forget to check the verticality by applying a level to the glued tile after every two rows. In case of deviation, we adjust the vertical with the amount of solution.

We use tile adhesive for work. It will simplify and facilitate the process. In addition, special adhesives increase the adhesion strength of the wall surface to the tiles. Glue dilution instructions are on the package.

We start by applying a layer of adhesive to the wall and spreading this layer evenly with a notched trowel. The thickness of the adhesive layer depends on the size of the tile and the characteristics of the adhesive itself. For ceramics of small size, for example 150x150 mm, the layer may have a thickness of the order of 5-6 mm. for ceramics bigger size the layer thickness increases to 8-10 mm.

Advice. Do not dilute a large amount of glue and do not apply a large amount of glue to the wall. Dried glue will have to be removed and a new one should be added.

Experts advise starting to glue ceramics from the center to the edges of the room. To do this, a vertical line is drawn in the center. With this method, the cut tile will be in places where it is not conspicuous. If you have an integer number of tiles in a horizontal row and you do not need to trim, you can start work from a doorway or from a corner.

Between the tiles we lay plastic cross-separators of the desired size. When the glue sets, we will remove them.

Do not forget to lay the internal plastic corners in the corners of the room. The junctions of vertical rows of ceramics on two adjacent walls in this case look much better. It is recommended to lay plastic corners on top of the last row of ceramic tiles, especially if this row is at eye level of an adult and is clearly visible.

After the glue has set, go back to the first row and glue it. We just have to do the grouting. It is advisable to buy the grout at the same time as the tiles. In this case, it is easier to choose the right combination of colors. Experts recommend buying tiles and grout in the same color scheme, and using the lightest or darkest grout that is present in the color of ceramics. White grout is considered universal. For the bathroom, the grout can be matched to the color of plumbing fixtures. In rooms with high humidity, epoxy grout is used.

Every owner of a house or apartment sooner or later faces the question of how to line the walls in the bathroom or kitchen. There are many options. For example, for surfaces with high humidity, both, and are suitable. But ceramic tiles are a practical and affordable material that is not afraid of temperature changes and is suitable for use in conditions of high humidity. Therefore, wall cladding with ceramic tiles (bathroom, kitchen) long years holds a leading position among the options for interior design. But in order for the coating to serve for a long time, it must be properly selected and laid. Consider the nuances of preparing walls for cladding, as well as the technology and secrets of laying ceramic tiles.

Tile selection

Having an idea of ​​what kind of repair you want to do, having decided on colors, you can go for the material. Ceramic tiles are of several types:

• Private. A standard tile with a corrugated surface on one side and a glazed decorative surface on the other. It comes in several sizes (calibers) and is used to create the main part of the cover.
• Shaped. Such material differs from the usual in complex shapes that allow you to veneer an uneven surface and carefully shape the corners.
• Floor. Floor tiles with increased durability and anti-slip properties. Often used as bathroom or kitchen flooring.
• Mosaic. The mosaic is small fragments (with a side of 5-7 cm) from which the overall picture is formed. Laying such tiles requires a creative approach and takes a lot of time and effort.

All of these types have several strength classes. This concept is made up of the ability of a tile to withstand physical impact and its resistance to abrasion. Most high level strength for outdoor tiles, followed by floor tiles, and then wall tiles.

Another important indicator is moisture resistance. For the bathroom, you should purchase a material with increased resistance to moisture, this will prevent the formation of fungus and extend the life of the coating. For the kitchen, the requirements for this indicator are more loyal.

If you plan to clad the exterior walls with ceramic tiles, pay attention to the frost resistance of the material. This property allows the tile not to crack when the temperature changes. A tile suitable for the exterior of a building can be identified by a snowflake drawn on the package.

For a harmonious design of the entire room, it is better to purchase ready-made sets, which include tiles for walls and floors, made in the same style, as well as borders and additional decorative elements. When buying a large volume of tiles in one tone, check the color match on the spot, because due to the specifics of the production of tiles, it happens that the material declared as the same has a different shade.

Often the question arises, is it worth taking a tile with a margin, and if so, with what? Manufacturers usually pack material with a 5% margin for possible damage, so you don’t need to take tiles beyond this. In order not to be mistaken with the quantity, pre-calculate the need for the material (in special program or manually) and buy it with the understanding that all cut tiles are considered intact. It is still better to purchase ceramic tiles in large stores or markets for repairs, since in this case there is a high probability that the missing tiles of the same shade can be purchased in addition.

Advice! When purchasing a tile, carefully check the information indicated on the box - information about the manufacturer, name, grade, material size, color and quantity.

Wall alignment

Tiles can only be laid on a previously prepared surface. Wherein Special attention give deviations from the plane, that is, various flaws that violate the evenness of the walls. To identify irregularities, the walls are checked with a plumb line (cord with a weight at the end) as follows:

• Nails are hammered into the wall under the ceiling every 1.5 m.
• A plumb line is alternately tied to the nails and the distance between it and the wall is measured with a tape measure, or evenness is determined visually.

This method allows you to make sure that it is vertical, and it is more convenient to measure horizontal with a bubble level or a perfectly flat rail. If you are using a rail, attach it to the wall and see how much gap is formed between it and the plane. With a gap width of more than 2 mm, the surface must be leveled.

If minor flaws are found, they are eliminated by plastering. When facing a wooden surface, a fine metal mesh is stuffed on the walls before applying the composition. It is not attached directly to the wood, but on pre-fixed bars 2.5 cm thick and 3 cm wide, and a layer of roofing material is also placed under the grid. Apply over the mesh cement mixture with the addition of cellulose fibers, and on top - a layer of standard plaster (not thinner than 1.5 cm). This significantly reduces the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe room, but the tiles laid on such a surface hold firmly and for a long time.

Wall surface preparation

Even if the walls are fairly even, they still need to be prepared, especially for painted surfaces. First you need to remove the old coating. It is more convenient to do this work with a perforator with a spatula-shaped nozzle, a grinder with a cork brush is also suitable. If the paint does not hold well and peels off, it can be removed with a scraper or a spatula.

After cleaning, the walls are sanded with a grinder and dusted. The preparation is completed by the application of a deep penetration primer mixture. After it dries, you can start laying.

Laying ceramic tiles on the wall

Another task that needs to be dealt with before starting the installation of tiles is to think over the arrangement of the rows. Preference should be given to the option in which the number of cuts will be minimal. Counting the occurrence of whole tiles in horizontal rows starts from the top, so that the cuts fall on the first row from the floor. So they will attract less attention.

The vertical rows are counted from any of the corners. If you can’t do without undercuts, then for symmetry it is desirable to put two identical tile trims on both sides. When calculating the rows, be sure to take into account the tile joints, each of which is usually 2-3 mm wide (depending on the size of the crosses used). Having chosen the optimal position of the rows, proceed to the installation of tiles.

Wall cladding technology with ceramic tiles

First of all, a metal profile is attached to the wall along the line of the beginning of the second row. The tile will rest on it, since the laying is carried out from the bottom up, and the first row from the floor, as already mentioned, is laid out last from the scraps.

If you use to fix the tiles cement-sand mixture, then the tile is pre-soaked in water. This will prevent the material from drawing moisture out of the solution. When laying on tile adhesive, such preparation is not required.

When kneading glue, follow the instructions on the package. To make the mixture homogeneous, it is better to use a drill with a mixing nozzle. By consistency adhesive solution should resemble thick sour cream, not spread and not be too hard.

The prepared composition is applied and distributed with a notched trowel, covering at one time the surface corresponding to the area of ​​3-4 tiles. Laying starts from the starting row, gradually rising up. Plastic crosses are inserted between the tiles to regulate the size of the joints.

Note! The crosses are removed after the cladding is completed, but before the adhesive is completely dry.

Having finished laying out one row, the correct laying is checked by the building level. If protruding tiles are found, they are carefully deepened by tapping with a rubber mallet. Too deeply lying tiles are removed, more glue is applied and installed back. The order of work is repeated for each row until the wall tiling is completed.

At the locations of outlets, pipes or other objects, the tiles are cut to the desired shape with a tile cutter or drill with a diamond crown bit. Read about how and how to properly cut ceramic tiles in a separate one. Lay out the bottom row last. If it is not possible to complete the work in one day, before the break, the lined surface is cleaned of excess mortar and the crosses are removed.

After laying, defects are sometimes found, one of them is incomplete filling and lack of joining of seams. A deviation of up to 2 mm is corrected with a grout, but with a larger discrepancy, the tiles are removed and laid again.

Grouting or jointing of tile joints

Completes the installation of tiles processing seams. It is performed a day after the end of the lining, when the adhesive is completely dry. The grout protects the joints from moisture penetration, fungus reproduction and performs a decorative function, hiding the color of the glue. With the right grout mixture (fugue), ceramic wall tiles not only last longer, but also look more harmonious.

Before grouting, the tile joints are cleaned of excess glue with a thin spatula or awl and wiped with a damp sponge. The composition (often polymer cement) is diluted with water in the proportions indicated on the package and applied with a wide rubber spatula. To give the seams a neat shape, a round cable cutter or a special tool for jointing will help.

The composition is left to dry for 2 hours, after which the stains remaining on the surface of the material are removed with a sponge or rag soaked in water. The finished coating is recommended to be treated with a special polish.

Attention! If you already have tiled surfaces in your home, then you can update the old coating by simply wiping the seams again. This will not only improve appearance coating, but will also help get rid of the fungus, which can become hazardous to health.

As you can see, wall cladding with ceramic tiles, although it requires care and some skill, is within the power of everyone. Happy repair!

The technology of wall cladding with ceramic tiles is a rather serious matter, during which all the nuances should be taken into account. Modern tile is a durable, moisture-repellent, protective material that protects the room from various fumes and gives it comfort. Its use is possible in any room, the main thing is to choose the right color and type of material.

Tile excellent quality, which is perfect for both indoor and outdoor use, must meet these parameters. On the front side of the material, you should not find cracks, chips, bumps. Do a simple test - connect two pieces with the front parts to each other. If there are no visual gaps between them, feel free to purchase such a product. One-color should not have faded stripes or any spots. On the back side, you should not see cracks or chips.

The corrugated surface of the back makes it possible to more firmly connect it to the solution. On the side, each tile should be perfectly flat. A gap between units up to 0.5 mm is possible if the seamless cladding method is not used. Before going to the store, decide how many pieces you need to complete the work. Make a preliminary calculation of the dimensions of the surface, decide on an approximate pattern and installation method.

Please note that even in a set that has a first-class product, a few defective pieces may come across, so it is best to buy with a margin.

Some units in the process of performing work will need to be drilled or cut. No more than 5% of the goods from the entire batch should be rejected. Experts recommend purchasing 7-8% more than the amount you need. A variety of manufacturers' products today puts a person before a choice. I want the purchased material to be not only beautiful, but also of high quality. Ceramic is distinguished by configuration and size. It can be fired once or twice, have an unusual pattern, and be glazed. All types differ from each other in production technology and other characteristics. Let's take a look at the most famous ones.

Metlakh tile is a material of Italian origin. It is produced in all countries that have the necessary raw materials - carbonate fraction, quarry clay, iron oxides. It is covered with icing applied to a pink tee. Most often used for. It has increased resistance to mechanical damage.

Cottoforte. The homeland of the material is also distant Italy. Its surface is covered with an opaque glaze. It has high strength and durability. Gives in to double roasting in the course of production. Used for indoor flooring. Displaced products that were subject to a single firing.

Terraglia did not become too popular. This is explained by the use in its manufacture of raw materials that have a high cost, and the technique of war firing. The composition of this product includes fluxes, sand and clay. Has a standard White color, used for cladding indoor surfaces. In Italy, the production of this material has practically ceased, since porous tiles with a single firing are in favor. Porous with a single firing involves processing in a special way the lining and glaze. For the comforter, clay containing iron oxides is used.

The correct dosage of the constituent components makes it possible to move from sintered tiles used for outdoor and flooring to materials with a more porous structure. Porous, obtained as a result of a single firing, on a white mass. It is made by firing the utel on a red base. The resulting tee has a white or beige color. The composition of the mass still contains quartz sand and feldspar. This ceramic tile has proven itself well in flooring inside and outside buildings. The production of tiles of this type for wall cladding is gaining momentum every year. Clinker is a type of product that is resistant to weather changes and impacts.

Tiles are glazed, unglazed and vitrified. It is used for facing floors and paths, as well as for outdoor work. It is offered by manufacturers in different formats. Cotto tiles are not glazed and are produced in large formats. It is customary to impregnate all floor coverings from it with a special composition that enhances the washable and color qualities of the material. This impregnation can damage the tiles during frost if applied outside the building. It has warm shades of red, for which it has earned the love of designers and architects. There are examples of the use of cotto tiles for flooring in museums and churches, paving squares and outdoor work. That confirms its high quality.

Porcelain stoneware on a red base. It is a sintered type of tile of Italian origin. It is used for laying on the surface of floors, in those places where a large number of people walk and a durable wear-resistant material is required. Tiles with a relief surface are used in places where the friction factor is important. The breadth of use of porcelain stoneware is explained by its high resistance to low temperatures, durability, wear resistance. Please note - when buying in a supermarket under the brand of porcelain stoneware, sometimes unsintered goods are offered, which are not characterized by the above qualities. The degree of water absorption for such material should be less than 4%.

Wall preparation

When you find out the price for the tiles, decide on the amount of material, purchase it, start preparing the walls for cladding. Glazed ceramic tiles are considered the most durable. The smooth surface of the walls affects the laying work. Verticality can be checked using a thread and any load - a bolt or nut will do. Place the load on the thread along the wall, press it. The deviation of the thread will show if the surface of the wall is even.

Specialists use a level to check. Mounting material on curved walls is a troublesome and thankless task. This will require more glue, which slowly hardens. If irregularities are found, the wall will have to be leveled. This is done by plastering it with cement mortar or sheathing with drywall, which has moisture-resistant properties. The cement mortar dries for a long time, it will take about three weeks for full strength. It is advised to entrust such work to a professional. Plaster alignment involves fixing profile rails with a distance of up to a meter. After that, a solution is prepared, which is thrown out between the beacons. A screed of cement-sand or lime mortar is carried out along them.

Aligning the walls with drywall does not require special skill. Unlike the first method, you do not need to wait three weeks before laying, in a day it will be possible to start tiling. The walls are treated with a primer. Special glue is applied to drywall sheets. Reliable fasteners will provide dowels of the format 6 by 40. Checking the verticality of the sheet is carried out with a one and a half meter level. Sheets can really be adjusted with dowels. Before laying, the walls are primed. It will help better adhesion of the tile to the adhesive.

When preparing concrete or brick wall that has not been plastered, you can apply a layer of mortar. The surface is pre-leveled, cleaned, notched seams, washed with water. Liquid cement mortar is advised to be sprayed. Then the solution is wiped with the movements of a rail or trowel. The panel is treated with a notched trowel. The surface can later be proliferated, dried and proceed to the cladding.

Phased cladding

It is necessary to measure the height for the second row, draw a line along the markers, fix the rule with screws. An aluminum profile is also suitable - a frame is made from it for the upcoming plasterboard sheathing. Usually on the glazed surface of the tile, which has a pattern, there is an arrow on the reverse side. Laying must be done with the edge up - the arrow will point to it. Using a notched trowel, apply a portion of the adhesive.

We lay the tiles of the first row, setting the distance with plastic crosses. Each tile must be tapped with a rubber mallet to make sure it is securely bonded to the adhesive. The crosses will help you set the desired width for the seams. Each row can be aligned so that the cladding occurs as horizontally as possible. In a column, the tile must be vertical so that the straightness of the cladding is not disturbed. It is important to follow the level that is advised to follow with coated thread.